SF 

^ I CB Issued Dcoeraber 21, 1'.ill. 

HGi^ U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 

"^ ' BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.— BULLETIN 146. 

A. D. AlELVIN, Chief of Bureau. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE: 



DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 



BY 



C. F. DOANE, M. S., 

Ass!sii77ii Dairyman, Dairy Division, 
AND 

H. W. LAWSON, M. S., M. D., 

Office of Experimefit Stations, Department of Agrictiltun 



[A revision of Bureau of Animal Industry Bulletin 105.1 




WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNIVIENT PRINTING OFFICE, 

1911. 



Glass 



Book— 




i9ff 



7 

Issued December 21, 1911. 

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, .^ 

BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.— BULLETIN 146. / 

A. D. MELVIN, CHibF of Bureau. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE: 

DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. , . ^ 

BY 

y-^ ■ 
C: F. DOANE, M. S., 

Assistant Dairyman , Dairy Division, 
r^ , \ AND 

H. W. LAWSON, M. S., M. D., 

Office of Experiment Stations, Department of Agricutture. 



[A revision of Bureau of Animal Industry Bulletin 105.] 




WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 

1911. 



Corja n ^ 






.V 



THE BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. 



Chief: A. D. Melvin. 
Assistant Chief: A. M. Farrington. 
Chief Clerk: Charles C. Carroll. 

Animal Husbandry Division: George M. Rommel, chief. 
Biochemic Division: M. Dorset, chief. 
Dairy Division: B. H. Rawl, chief. 

Inspection Division: Rice P. Steddom, chief; R. A. Ramsay, Morris Wooden, 
and Albert E. Behnke, associate chiefs. 

Pathological Division: John R. Mohler, chief. 
Quarantine Division: Richard W. Hickman, chief. 
Zoological Division: B. H. Ransom, chief. 
Experiment Station: E. C. Schroeder, superintendent. 
Editor: James M. Pickens. 

DAIRY DIVISION. 

B. H. Rawl, Chief. 

Helmer Rabild, in charge of Dairy Farming Investigations. 
S. C. Thompson, in charge of Dairy Manufacturing Investigations. 
L. A. "Rogers, in charge of Research Laboratories. 
George M. Whitaker, in charge of Market Milk Investigations. 
Robert McAdam, in charge of Renovated Butter Inspection. 
2 



A'A 



LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Bureau of Animal Industry, 
Washington^ D. C.^ August 31, 1911. 

Sir : In 1908 there was published as Bulletin 105 of this bureau a 
paper entitled " Varieties of Cheese : Descriptions and Analyses," by- 
Mr. C. F. Doane, of the dairy division of this bureau, and Dr. H. W. 
Lawson, of the Office of Experiment Stations of this department. 
As the supply of that bulletin is exhausted, and as it has been found 
desirable to make a few additions and some slight revisions, I have 
the honor to transmit herewith the copy for a revised edition and to 
recommend that it be issued as a new bulletin. A few new varieties 
have been added and certain descriptions in the first edition have 
been revised to conform to preselit usage. 

As was stated in transmitting the original manuscript, the work is 
a compilation of descriptions and analyses of all the varieties of do- 
mestic and foreign cheese about which it has been possible to obtain 
such information in the literature bearing upon the subject. In a 
number of cases only meager details could be secured, and owing to 
the size of the work the descriptions are necessarily of a very con- 
densed nature. 

Eespectfully, A. D, Melvin, 

Chief of Bweau. 
Hon. James Wilson, 

Secretary of Agriculture. 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Introduction 5 

Descriptions of varieties of clieese 7 

Analyses of cheese 62 

Sources of analytical data 69 

Index 75 

4 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE : DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The amount of cheese imported into the United States is increas- 
ing rapidly. During the six years from 1900 to 1905, inclusive, the 
value of the imports increased from $1,946,033 to $3,875,161. Italy 
and Switzerland supplied the bulk of this cheese, most of the re- 
mainder coming from France and Holland. The best known of the 
varieties of cheese imported were the Parmesan and Gorgonzola 
from Italy, the Emmental from Switzerland, the Eoquefort, Camem- 
bert and Brie from France, and the Edam from Holland. The 
growing demand for cheese is not, however, confined to these well- 
known varieties, much interest being manifested in many kinds as 
3^et of very little commercial importance but highly esteemed in the 
localities where produced. 

Attempts have long been made in this country to imitate some of 
the European varieties, and in some instances the results have been 
decidedly successful. The manufacture of Swiss, or Emmental, and 
of Limburg types has become well established. The investigations 
conducted at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station in Con- 
necticut have shown that cheese of the Camembert type, equal in 
every way to the imported article, may be produced in the United 
States. This department is cooperating in investigations of this 
kind, and recently results have been obtained which make it prac- 
tically certain that a cheese of the nature of Roquefort or Stilton 
can likewise be produced in this country. 

Information concerning the manufacture and composition of the 
numerous varieties of cheese is not very accessible to English readers 
and the apparent need of some work of reference, in connection at 
least with the importation and home production of cheese, has there- 
fore led to the preparation of the descriptive notes and the compila- 
tion of the analytical data contained in this bulletin. 

The descriptions are for the most part based upon data contained 
in treatises on dairying and in articles in foreign periodicals. While 
in many instances they are very incomplete and possibly at times 
inaccurate, they nevertheless contain in condensed form practically 

5 



6 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

all the important information that it has been possible to secure in 
an extended search through the literature relating in any way to 
the subject. Owing to the large number of publications consulted, 
it has seemed impracticable to give references to the descriptive 
matter. 

The analyses have been compiled in most instances from the origi- 
nal publications. In all cases, however, the sources of the data have 
been given in the list of references which follows the table of an- 
alyses. No effort has been made to collect the numerous analyses of 
filled cheese, and in the case of American Cheddar cheese only a part 
of the available data has been included in the compilation. 



DESCRIPTIONS OF VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

ABERTAM. 

This is a bard rennet cheese made from sheep's milk in the region of Carlsbad, 
Bohemia. 

ALEMTEJO. 

This name is applied to rather soft cheeses made in the Province of Alemtejo, 
Portugal. They are cylindrical in shape and are made in three sizes, averaging 
in weight about 2 ounces, 1 pound, and 4 pounds, respectively. They are made 
for the most part from the milk of sheep, though goat's milk is often added, 
especially for the smaller sizes. The milk is vi^armed and curdled usually with 
an extract prepared from the flowers of a kind of thistle. The cheeses are 
ripened for several weeks. 

ALPIN. 

This is a kind of Mont d'Or cheese made in the Alpine regions of France. It 
is also known as Clerimbert. The milk is coagulated with rennet at S0° F. in 
2 hours. The curd is dipped into molds 3 to 4 inches ixi diameter and 2} inches 
in height. The cheese is allowed to drain and is turned several times during 
one day, after which it is salted and ripened for 8 to 15 days. 

ALTENBURG. 

This is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany, where it is known as Alten- 
burger Ziegenkiise. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter, 1 to 2 inches in thickness, 
and weighs about 2 pounds. 

AMBERT. 

This cheese, known as Fourme d'Ambert, is a cylindrical-shaped imitation 
Roquefort cheese made from cow's milk. It is said to differ from other forms 
of blue or imitation Roquefort cheese made in the southeastern part of France 
in that the salt is mixed with the curd rather than rubbed on the surface of the 
cheese. 

ANCIEN IMPERIAL. 

The curd is prepared in the same manner for this cheese as for Neufchatel. 
The cheese is about 2 inches square and one-half inch thick. It is also known 
as Petit Carre and when ripened as Carre Afllne. The cheese is sold and con- 
sumed both while fresh and after ripening. The ripening process is not essen- 
tially different from that of Neufchatel. 

APPENZELL. 

This cheese, which is very similar to Emmental, is made in the Canton of 
Appenzell, Switzerland, and also in Bavaria and Baden. It is usually made of 

skim milk, but sometimes of whole milk. 

7 



8 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

BACKSTEIN. 

Backstein, meaning brick, is so called from its shape, but it is not identical 
with the Brick cheese made in the United States. The process of manufacture 
is similar to that of Limburg. 

BANBURY. 

This was a soft, rich cheese, very popular in England in the early part of the 
nineteenth century. It was a cylindrical cheese about 1 inch thick. 

BARBEREY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its name 
from the village of Barberey, near Troyes, France. It is also commonly 
known as Fromage de Troyes. The milk while still fresh and warm is coagu- 
lated with rennet, the time allowed being usually about 4 hours. The uncut 
curd is put into a wooden mold having a perforated bottom. After draining 
for 3 hours the cheese is turned into an earthenware mold, the wooden one 
being removed after 24 hours. The cheeses are salted, dried in a well-venti- 
lated room, and ripened for about 3 weeks, usually in a subterranean curing 
room. In summer the cheese is often sold without ripening. A cheese is 
5 to 6 inches in diameter and li inches in thickness. 

BATTLEMAT. 

This is an Emmental cheese made in the Canton of Tessin, Switzerland, in 
the western part of Austria, and in the northern part of Italy. It is recom- 
mended for localities where a great quantity of milk can not be obtained. 
The cheese is circular in form, about 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches high, 
and weighs from 40 to SO pounds. It is cooked at a slightly lower temperature 
than the Emmental and is a little softer when ripened. It ripens more rapidly 
than the Emmental, being ready for market in about 4 months. 

BAUDEN. 

Baudenkilse is a sour-milk cheese made in the herders' huts in the mountains 
between Bohemia and Silesia in essentially the same manner as Harzkiise. 
It is made up in two forms, one conical with a diameter and a height of 3i 
inches, and the other cylindrical, with a diameter of 5 inches and a height of 
2* inches. It is also known locally as Koppenkllse. 

BELGIAN COOKED. 

The milk which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously is skimmed and 

the curd heated to 135° to 140° F. and then placed in a cloth and allowed to 

drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed to undergo 

fermentation, which takes ordinarily from 10 to 14 days in winter and 6 to 8 

days in summer. When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are 

added and the mixture is heated gently and stirred until homogeneous, when 

it is put into molds and allowed to ripen for 8 days longer. A cheese ordinarily 

weighs about 3* pounds. It is not essentially different from other forms of 

cooked cheese. 

BELLELAY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole milk and sometimes called 
Tete de Moine, and Monk's Head. This cheese originated with the monks of 
the Canton of Bern, Switzerland, in the fifteenth century, and is made ex- 
clusively in that locality at the present time. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 9 

The sweet milk is set at about 90° F. witli sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 
20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut comparatively fine and is stirred while being 
heated slowly to a temperature of 110°. It is cooked much firmer than 
Limburg and not so firm as Emmental. 

When cooked the curd is dipped into wooden hoops lined with cloth. The 
cheeses are pressed in rotation for a few minutes at a time, one press being 
used for a number of cheeses. After pressing, the cheeses are wrapped in bark 
for a couple of weeks, or until they are firm enough to require no support. 
They are cured in a moist cellar at a comparatively low temperature, as it is 
not desired to have eyes develop. The cheese when ready for market has a 
diameter of 7 inches and weighs from 9 to 15 pounds. It ripens in about 12 
months and will keep for 3 or 4 years. It has a soft, buttery consistency and 
can be spread on bread for eating. 

BERGQUARA. 

This is a Swedish cheese resembling Gouda. It was known in Sweden in the 
eighteenth century. 

BLEU. 

The names PatS Bleu and Fromage Bleu are applied to several kinds of hard 
rennet cheese made from cow's milk in imitation of Roquefort cheese in the 
southeastern part of France. Owing to the mottled, marbled, or veined appear- 
ance they are also designated Fromage Persille. Among these are Gex, Sas- 
senage, and Septmoncel. This name is also applied locally to several more or 
less distinct kinds made in the regions of the Auvergne and Aubrac Mountains 
and designated Bleu d'Auvergne, Cantal, Guiole or Laguiole, and St. Flour. 
Other cheeses of this order mentioned as made in France are Queyras, Cham- 
pol6on, Sarraz, and Journiac. 

BOUDANNE. 

This is a French cheese made from cow's milk. The milk, either whole or 
skimmed, is heated to about 85° F., sufficient rennet is added to secure coagula- 
tion in 1 hour, and the curd is cut to the size of peas, stirred, and heated to 
100° or above. After standing for 10 to 15 minutes the curd is pressed by hand 
and put into molds 8 inches in diameter and 3 inches in height. The cheeses 
are drained, turned frequently, salted, and ripened for 2 to 3 months. 

BOX (FIRM). 

This cheese, known in different localities where made as Hohenburg, Mondsee, 
and Weihenstephan, is made from whole cow's milk and is a rather firm rennet 
cheese. The fiavor is said to be mild, but piquant. The milk is heated to 90° 
to 93° F. in a kettle, is colored with saffron, and set with sufficient rennet to 
curdle it in 20 to 25 minutes. The curd is cut up as fine as peas and the con- 
tents of the kettle are heated very slowly to a temperature of 105°, being stirred 
meanwhile. The fire is then removed and the curd allowed to settle for 5 min- 
utes, when the whey is dipped off. The curd is then dipped into a cloth and from 
this is scooped into hoops. Light pressure is applied and in 15 minutes the 
cheese is turned, and the turning is repeated frequently for several hours. The 
cheese is kept in a well-ventilated room at 60° for 3 to 5 days, after which it is 
taken to the cellar. It is salted by rubbing or sprinkling salt on the surface. 
Ripening requires from 2 to 3 months. The cheese weighs from 1 to 4 pounds, 
and is undoubtedly similar to the Brick cheese of the United States. 



10 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

BOX (SOFT). 

This is a rennet cheese made from partially skimmed cow's milli; and known 
locally as Schachteikiise. It is a rather unimportant variety produced in Wiirt- 
temberg in a small locality called Holienheim, a name which the cheese often 
takes. 

In making this cheese the skimmed evening's milk is mixed with the whole 
morning's milk, or a part of the milk is skimmed with a centrifuge and is mixed 
with an equal volume of whole milk. The cheese is made in a copper kettle. 
The milk is warmed to 110° F., colored with saffron, and rennet added. It is 
allowed to stand for one to one and one-half hours before cutting. The curd is 
cut into rather coarse particles, after which it is allowed to stand for a few 
minutes, when the whey is dipped off, and for every 200 pounds of milk used a 
small handful of caraway seed is added. The curd is then dipped into hoops 6J 
inches in height and the same in diameter. It remains in these hoops for 10 
hours and is frequently turned, after which it is transferred to a wooden hoop 
only one-half as high, where it remains for 12 hours. The cheese is then 
sprinkled with salt and put in the ripening cellar, where it remains about 3 
months. 

A soft rennet cheese known as Fromage de Boite is made in the mountains of 
Doubs, France, in the fall. It resembles Pont I'Eveque. 

BRA. 

This cheese is made by nomads in the region of Bra in Piedmont, Italy. It is 
a hard rennet cheese weighing about 12 pounds. The milk, which is partly 
skimmed, is heated to about 90° F., and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate it 
in 30 to 40 minutes. The curd is cut to the size of rice grains and the whey 
removed after about one-half of an hour. The curd is put into a form about 12 
inches in diameter and 3 inches in height and subjected to pressure for 12 to 24 
hours. It is salted by immersion in brine and also by sprinkling salt on the 
surface. The cheese is then ripened. 

BRAND. 

This is a German hand cheese weighing about one-third of a pound, made from 
sour-milk curd cooked at a little higher temiierature than ordinarily practiced. 
The curd is salted and allowed to ferment one day. It is then mixed with 
butter, pressed into shape and dried, and finally placed in kegs to ripen, during 
which process it is moistened occasionally with beer. 

BRICK. 

The exact derivation of this name is not known. It may have been adopted 
because of the shape, or because of the fact that bricks are used almost exclu- 
sively for weighting down the press. Brick cheese is a rennet cheese made from 
unskimmed cow's milk, and is purely an American product. In characteristics 
it is about halfway between Limburg and Emmental. It has a strong, sweetish 
taste, a sort of elastic texture, and many small round eyes or holes. It is made 
about 10 by 6 by 3 inches in size. There are many factories making this 
product, especially in southern Wisconsin. 

Perfectly sweet milk is set in a vat at 86° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate 
it in 20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut with Cheddar curd knives, and is then 
heated to 110° to 120° and stirred constantly. The cooking is continued until 
the curd has become firm enough so that a handful squeezed together will fall 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 11 

apart when released. The curd is theu dipped into the mold, which is a heavy 
rectangular box without a bottom and with slits sawed in the sides to allow 
drainage. The mold is set on the draining table, a follower is put on the curd, 
and one or two bricks are used on each cheese for pressure. The cheeses are 
allowed to remain in the molds for 24 hours, when they are removed, rubbed all 
over with salt, and piled three deep. The salting is done each day for 3 days, 
after which the cheese is taken to the ripening cellar, which should have a tem- 
perature of from 60° to 65° and be comparatively moist. Ripening requires 2 
months. 

BRICKBAT. 

This is a rennet cheese made as early as the eighteenth century in Wiltshire, 
England. It is made from fresh milk, to which a small portion of cream has 
been added. The milk is set at about 90° F. and allowed to stand 2 hours before 
the curd is disturbed. The curd is cut coarse, dipped into wooden forms, and 
light pressure applied. The cheese is said to be fit for consumption for one 
year after being made. 

, BRIE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The cheese varies in size 
and also in qualitj% depending on whether whole or partly skimmed milk is 
used. The method of manufacture closely resembles that of Camembert. 

This cheese has been made in France for several centuries. Mention was 
made of it as early as 1407. It is made throughout France, but more exten- 
sively in the Department of Seine et Marne, in which it doubtless originated. 
This department contains Meaux, Coulommiers, and Melun, places noted for 
their manufacture of Brie cheese, though often under local names. More or 
less successful imitations of this cheese are made in other countries. It was 
estimated that 7,000,000 pounds of Brie cheese was sold in Paris during 1900. 
The export trade is also very important. 

The milk used is usually perfectly fresh. It is not uncommon, however, to 
mix the evening's milk, when kept cool over night, with the morning's milk. 
Some artificial coloring matter is added to the milk, which is then set with 
rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. After standing undisturbed for about 
2 hours the curd is dipped into forms or hoops, of which there are three sizes 
in common use. The largest size is about 15 inches in diameter, the medium 
size about 12 inches in diameter, and the smallest size about 6 inches in diam- 
eter. These vary in height from 2 to 3 inches. After drainage for 24 hours 
without pressui-e being applied, the hoops are removed and the surface of the 
cheese is sprinkled with salt. Charcoal is sometimes mixed with the salt used. 
The cheese is then transferred to the first curing room, which is kept dry and 
well ventilated. After remaining in this room for about 8 days, the cheese 
becomes covered with mold. It is then transferred to the second curing room 
or cellar, which is usually very dark, imperfectly ventilated, and has a tem- 
perature of about 60° F. The cheese remains here for from 2 to 4 weeks or 
until the consistency and odor indicate that it is sufficiently ripened. The red 
coloration which the surface of the cheese finally acquires has been attributed 
to an organism designated Bacillus flrmatatis. The ripening is due to one or 
more species of molds which occur on the surface and produce enzyms which in 
turn cause a gradual and progressive breaking down of the casein from the 
exterior toward the center. The interior of a ripened cheese varies in con- 
sistency from waxy to semiliquid and has a very pronounced odor and a sharp 
characteristic taste. 



12 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

BRINSEN. 

This cheese, known locally as Laudoch, Zips, Liptau. Siebenbiirgen, Neusohl, 
Altsohl, and Klencz, is made in the Carpathian Mountains of Hungary from 
sheep's milli, or a mixture of sheep's and goat's milk. 

The cheese is made in small lots, only 2 to 4 gallons of milk being used at 
one time. This is put into a kettle when fresh and sufficient rennet is added 
with the milk at a temperatui'e of from 75° to 85° F. to secure coagulation in 
15 minutes. The curd is broken up and the whey dipped and the curd is 
placed in a linen sack and allowed to drain for 24 hours. It is then cut into 
pieces and placed on a board, where with frequent turnings it is allowed to 
remain until it commences to get smeary, which requires about 8 days. The 
pieces are then laid one on top of another in a vessel holding from 40 to 60 
pounds, where they remain for 24 hours, after which they are removed, the 
rind cut away, and the curd or partially cured cheese broken up in another 
vessel. After 10 hours salt is stirred in and the curd run through a mill which 
cuts it very fine, when it is packed in a tub with beech shavings. 

BROCCIO. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made from sheep's milk in Corsica. It is some- 
times mixed with sugar and rum and made into small cakes. It is similar to 
Ziger. 

BURGUNDY. 

This cheese, known in France as Fromage de Bourgogne, is described as a 
soft, white, loaf-shaped cheese weighing about 4 pounds. 

BUTTERMILK. 

This cheese, which is made from the curd of buttermilk, is of somewhat finer 
grain than skimmed-milk cottage cheese, which it closely resembles. Butter- 
milk of 0.5 or 0.6 per cent acidity is run into a steam-heated vat or starter can, 
or placed in a pail which can be heated in a tub of hot water. The buttermilk 
is stirred and heated to 75° to 78° F., then covered and left for 1* to 2 hours. 
The temperature is then raised to 140° F., and in about 1 hour the curd settles 
to the bottom. The whey is removed and the curd transferred to a draining 
cloth or bag for about 10 hours. It should be stirred occasionally while drain- 
ing. When dry the curd is salted, put up in small packages, and wrapped in 
parchment paper. 

CACIOCAVALLO. 

This is a somewhat peculiar kind of cheese made from either whole or partly 
skimmed cow's milk. Various explanations have been made as to the origin of 
the name, which means literally horse cheese. One explanation offered is that 
the cheese was originally made in the region of ]\Ionte Cavallo, and another is 
that the imprint of a horse's head was made in each cheese as the trade-mark 
of the original manufacturer. The original home of this cheese was southern 
Italy, but it is now made extensively in northern Italy as well. The history 
of the cheese dates back several centuries. 

The temperature of the coagulation of the milk with rennet varies greatly 
but is usually from 90° to 95° F. The time allowed for coagulation is also 
variable, being usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut very finely and 
sometimes allowed to ferment for 24 hours, when it is heated by means of very 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 13 

hot water, or more commonly hot whey, and subsequently worked by hand 
until all the whey is expressed and the curd becomes homogenous and capable 
of being drawn out into long threads. It is then molded into any desired shape 
and salted by immersion in brine for about 2 days. The cheeses are sus- 
pended in pairs from the ceiling and lightly smoked. The surface may be 
rubbed with olive oil or butter. They are kept in a cool, dry room until sold. 
As seen on the market they vary much in size and shape. On an average they 
weigh about 3 pounds. The most common shape is that resembling a beet, 
a constriction near the top being due to the string which is tied around the 
cheese for the purpose of hanging it up. This cheese is sometimes eaten while 
comparatively fresh, but is more frequently kept for months and then grated 
and used for flavoring soups and as an addition to macaroni and similar foods. 
A small quantity is imported into the United States. 

CAERPHILLY. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Wales from unskimmed cow's milk. 
The milk is set very sweet at a temperature of 85° F. with enough rennet to co- 
agulate it in 1 hour. The curd is cut in ^-inch cubes and stirred for 1 hour with- 
out further heating. It is then put in cloths and subjected to light pressure for 
an hour and is again broken up fine and put to press, where it remains, with 
daily changing, for 3 days. During this time one-half ounce salt to each pound 
of curd is rubbed on the surface. Each cheese weighs about 8 pounds. The 
cheese requires about 3 weeks for ripening, at a temperature of 65° to 70°. 

CAMBRIDGE. 

This is a soft rennet English cheese made from cow's milk. Milk is set at 
90° F. and rennet added. At the end of 1 hour the curd is dipped into molds 
without cutting and allowed to stand for 30 hours, when it is ready for eating. 

CAMEMBERT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. A typical cheese is about 
4^ inches in diameter and li inches thick and is usually found on the market in 
this country wrapped in paper and inclosed in a wooden box of the same shape. 
The cheese usually has a rind about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, which 
is composed of molds and dried cheese. The interior is yellowish in color and 
waxy, creamy, or almost fluid in consistency, depending largely upon the degree 
of ripeness. 

Camembert cheese is said to have originated in 1791 in the locality from which 
it derives its name in the Department of Orne, in the northwestern part of 
France. The industry extended soon into Calvados, and these two Departments 
are still the principal seat of the industry. Cheese of the same type, however, 
is made in other parts of France and also in other countries; among these are 
Compiegne, Contentin, Pavilion, Soumaintrain, and Thury-en-Valois. Very suc- 
cessful results have been obtained at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Sta- 
tion in Connecticut. 

Camembert cheese is made from whole fresh milk or from milk which has 
been partly skimmed. The evening's milk may be skimmed and mixed with the 
fresh morning's milk. The temperature of setting is about 80° to 85° F., and 
the quantity of rennet added for this purpose is sufficient to secure the desired 
degree of firmness in about 2 hours. The curd is then transferred, usually with 
as little breaking up as possible, to perforated tin forms or hoops about 4i 



14 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

inches in diameter and the same in height. These rest upon rush mats which 
permit free drainage. The filling of the forms may be done at two or three 
times separated by short intervals allowed for the curd to settle. Each form 
holds the equivalent in curd of about 2 quarts of milk. After draining for about 
18 hours, and preferably in a room having a uniform temperature of 65° to 70°, 
the cheese is turned. This is repeated frequently for about 2 days, when the 
cheese is removed from the forms and salted on the outside. Two or three days 
later the cheese is transferred to a well-ventilated room, where the ripening 
process begins. The cheese remains here for 15 to 20 days, during which time 
it is turned very frequently and the surface becomes covered with molds, which 
gradually produce a breaking down of the casein. It is then taken to the cur- 
ing cellar, where the ripening process is completed in about 3 weeks, when it is 
packed and marketed. 

CANQUILLOTE. 

This is a skim-milk cheese made in the eastern part of France. It is also 
known locally as Fromagere and Tempete. The milk is allowed to coagulate 
spontaneously, after which it is heated gently and the whey drawn off. The 
curd is pressed in order to remove as much of the whey as possible, crumbled 
fine, and fermented at a temperature of about 70° F. for 2 or 3 days, dur- 
ing which time it is stirred frequently. When the cheese has acquired its 
characteristic taste it is melted with the addition of water, salt, eggs, and 
butter and put into molds of various kinds. 

CANTAL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk more or less skimmed. 
Its manufacture is extensive in the Department of Cantal, France. It is also 
known as Auvergne or Auvergne Blue on account of its being manufactured in 
the region of the Auvergne Mountains. Locally the cheese is commonly known 
as Fourme. The cheese is doubtless a very old variety, and the method of 
manufacture has remained quite primitive. The milk, usually fresh but some- 
times several hours old, is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., the 
time allowed for coagulation being about 30 minutes. The curd is then cut very 
finely and the whey dipped off. The curd is subjected to pressure in order to 
remove as much of the whey as possible, and is allowed to ferment for 24 hours, 
Avhich process is considered very important. The curd is then broken up by 
hand or by machinery and salted at the rate of 2.5 to 3 per cent. When 
thoroughly kneaded it is put into hoops about 14 inches in diameter. Pressure 
is applied for about 2 days, during which time it is turned vei-y frequently. 
The cheese is next transferred to the curing cellar, where it remains for 6 
weeks to 6 months. The yield of cheese is usually 10 to 11 per cent of the 
weight of the milk. A ripened cheese weighs from 40 to 120 pounds. 

CHAMPOLEON. 

Champoleon, or Queyras, is a hard rennet cheese jnade from skim milk in the 
Department of Hautes-Alpes, France. 

CHAOURCE. 

This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its 
name from the village of Chaource, in the Department of Aube, France. It is 
about 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 15 

CHASCHOL DE CHASCHOSIS. 

This cheese is made in the Canton of Grisons, Switzerland. It is a hard ren- 
net cheese made from skimmed cow's millj. The cheeses are 18 to 22 inches in 
diameter, 3 to 4 inches high, and weigh from 22 to 40 pounds. 

CHEDDAR. 

This cheese is so named from the village of Cheddar in Somersetshire, Eng- 
land, where it was first made. It is a comparatively old cheese, though the gen- 
uine Cheddar process as it is now known is not old. Cheddar cheese is an ex- 
ceedingly popular variety, being much used as a food product in America and 
England. It is probably the most important of all cheeses as regards the quan- 
tity made annually. The term Cheddar as used at the present time applies 
usually to a process of making rather than to any particular shape of cheese. 
The name, however, is occasionally used to designate a certain size of cheese 14 
to 16 inches in diameter, and weighing from 60 to 100 pounds. Cheese made by 
the Cheddar process has, however, many different shapes with distinguishing 
names, such as Flats, which have the same diameter as the Cheddar size, but 
weigh only 30 to 40 pounds ; Daisies, which are 12 inches in diameter and weigh 
20 iwunds ; Young Americas, which are 8 inches in diameter and weigh 8 to 12 
pounds ; Long Horns, which are 5 inches in diameter and weigh 12 pounds ; and 
Squares, which are of various sizes and usually 3 to 4 inches thick. The cheese 
may be white or colored yellow, and it may be almost fresh or thoroughly ripened 
and broken down. It is made from sweet cow's milk, which may be skimmed, 
partly skimmed, or unskimmed. When made from unskimmed milk the cheese 
is called " full cream ; " when otherwise, it is called " part skim " or " skim." 

The milk, morning's and evening's mixed, is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet 
to coagulate to the proper point in from 25 to 40 minutes. At the time of set- 
ting the milk should have an acidity of about O.IS to 0.20 per cent. Color may 
or may not be used. The curd is cut when it breaks evenly before the finger. 
The cutting is done with curd knives. These knives are made up of blades set 
about one-third of an inch apart in frames. In one frame the knives are set per- 
pendicularly and in the other horizontally. When well cut the curd is in uni- 
form cubes of about one-third of an inch. 

After cutting the curd is heated slowly and with continued stirring until it 
reaches a temperature of from 96° to 108°. With the use of mechanical agita- 
tors, as is the common practice, the curd should be heated about 4 degrees 
higher than when stirring is done by hand. After heating the stirring is con- 
tinued intermittently until the curd is sufficiently firm. This is determined by 
squeezing a handful, which should fall apart immediately on being released. 
The whey is then drawn. At the same time the acid should have reached about 
0.20 per cent or one-fourth of an inch on the hot iron, which latter is determined 
by measuring the length of strings when the curd is touched to a hot iron. The 
curd is then matted about 4 inches deep, sometimes in the bottom of the vat, 
sometimes on racks covered with a coarse linen cloth. After it has remained 
here long enough to stick together it is cut into rectangular pieces easy to handle, 
which are turned frequently and finally piled two to four deep; in the mean- 
while the temperature of the curd is kept at about 90°. When the curd has 
broken down until it has the smooth feeling of velvet, which requires from one 
to three hours, it is milled by means of a machine, which cuts it into pieces the 
size of a finger. It is then stirred on the bottom of the vat until whey ceases to 
run, which requires from one-half to one and one-half hours, when it is salted at 
the rate of 2 to 2^ pounds of salt to 100 pounds of milk. It is then ready to put 
in press. The curd is put into tinned iron hoops of the proper size, which are 



16 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

lined with cheese-cloth bandages. The hoops are put in presses and great pres- 
sure is applied by means of screws. The next morning the cheese is removed 
from the hoops and put on shelves in a curing room. Formerly the cheese was 
kept in a curing room as long as 6 months, but at the present time it is covered 
with a coat of paraffin and put in cold storage when 3 to 12 days of age. There 
is a growing demand on the part of consumers for mild cheese, and consequently 
ripening must be carried on at a temperature below 50°. 

An important point in the process of manufacturing Cheddar cheese is the 
development of the desired amount of acid. A maximum quantity in the whey 
that can be developed without injuring the texture of the cheese is aimed at, 
and the proper breaking down of the curd before milling and salting is 
attributed to the acid. It is very probable that too much weight has been 
placed on the desirability of a maximum development of acid, and that prac- 
tically as good cheese can be produced without the high acid. 

Some of the details in the manufacture of Cheddar cheese are varied to 
some extent, and other names may be used to designate the cheese so made. 
A stirred curd cheese is one where the curd particles are not allowed to mat 
together after the whey is drawn. The curd is stirred at intervals to prevent 
this matting process, but it differs from the sweet curd cheese, as acid is allowed 
to develop before salting and pressing. Formerly there was a comparatively 
large quantity of stirred curd cheese made, but there is very little, if any, made 
at the present time. 

A washed curd cheese varies from the regular Cheddar process in having the 
milled curd subjected for a short period to cold water. This process is 
evidently practiced to force the curd to take up a small percentage of the 
water and increase the yield. It results in a cheese which apparently breaks 
down or ripens much more rapidly than cheese made in the ordinary way. 
This ripening is very likely not due to the excess of moisture but to some 
other unexplained reason. Some States have prohibited the use of the State 
brand on washed curd cheese. 

CHESHIRE. 

This cheese is one of the oldest and most popular of the English varieties. 
It is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, and is named for 
Chester County, England, where it is largely produced. It is made in cylin- 
drical shape from 14 to 16 inches in diameter, and weighs 50 to 70 pounds. 
In making this cheese sufficient annatto is used to give the product a very 
high color. The process of manufacture varies in detail in different sections. 
Perfectly sweet milk, night's and morning's mixed, is set at a temperature of 
from 75° to 90° F. The curd is cut in 1 hour, usually with an instrument in 
which knives are set in a frame to cut cubes 1 to li inches square. This Is 
pushed dowm through the curd and finally worked back and forth at an angle. 
This is continued until the particles of curd are the size of peas, which requires 
about 1 hour. The curd is then allowed to settle and mat on the bottom of 
the vat for about an hour, when it is rolled up to one end, weighted down, 
and the whey drawn after the desired degree of acidity has been obtained. 
The curd is cut in pieces the right size to handle and is piled on racks. It is 
then run through a curd mill, salted at the rate of 3 pounds to 1,000 pounds 
of milk, and put into a hoop having a number of holes in the side through 
which skewers can be thrust into the cheese to promote drainage. The cheese 
in the hoop is put in a heated wooden box called an oven, and sometimes light 
pressure is applied, the pressure increasing gradually until it reaches about 
1 ton. The curing cellar or room is about 60° to 65°. From 8 to 10 months 
is required for thorough ripening. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 17 

CHESHIRE-STILTON. 

This is a combination of the Cheshire and Stilton varieties of cheese in 
which the general characteristics of size and shape and manufacture of the 
Cheshire is retained, and a growth of the mold peculiar to Stilton is secured. 
The mold is secured by lieeping out each day a small portion of curd and 
mixing it with some curd in which the mold is growing well. 

CHIAVARI. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in the region of Chiavari, Italy, from whole 
cow's milk. It is also known as Cacio Romano. A hard rennet cheese made 
in the same region is also known by this name. 

COMMISSION. 

This cheese is m;ide in Holland and resembles Edam in the process of manu- 
facture, but it has a slightly different shape, being flattened at the ends. It is 
said to be made from whole cow's milk. 

COTHERSTONE. 

This is a rennet cow's-milk cheese made in Yorkshire, England, and resembles 
the well-known Stilton cheese of that country. It is a local product manufac- 
tured only on a small scale. It has also been known as Yorkshire-Stilton. 

COOKED. 

This kind of cheese is so called because the curd is heated to the melting point 
in its manufacture. It is made from fresh curd prepared by breaking up and 
heating the curd of sour clabbered milk. When cooled sufficiently this curd is 
placed in a receptacle and allowed to stand for 3 or 4 days until it has become 
colored throughout. It is then put into a kettle OA^er a fire; salt, milk, and 
usually caraway seed are added, and the whole is stirred vigorously until it 
becomes of the consistency of thick molasses, or until it strings when a spoon 
is withdrawn. The mass can then be put into molds until it becomes cold, or 
placed in a vessel for keeping. It gets hard with cooling and will retain the 
shape of the mold. 

Cooked cheese, made in northern Germany, is called Topfen, and a similar 
product made in Sardinia is called Freisa, and Paneddas. The same kind of 
cheese made in Belgium is called Belgian cooked cheese. Similar kinds are 
made in other countries. 

COTTAGE. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made extensively in this country, where it is often 
called Dutch cheese, and Smearcase. It is manufactured usually in a very- 
small way, but occasionally it is made in large factories. Skim milk is allowed 
to sour and the curd is then broken up and held at a temperature of about 
100° F. for 3 to 4 hours, or until it has become sufficiently firm. The whey is 
then drained off and the curd placed under slight pressure for a time. The curd 
is either consumed immediately or is packed in tubs and placed in cold storage. 
It is prepared for eating by moistening with either milk or cream. Sometimes 
It is made up into shapes and wrapped in tin foil. No ripening is ever allowed. 

10415°— Bull, 146—11 2 



18 VABIETIES OF CHEESE. 

COULOMMIERS. 

This is a small-sized Brie clieese 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1 inch in 
thickness, and weighing about 1 pound. It is made in the region of Coulom- 
miers, France. 

CREAM. 

Genuine cream cheese is made from a rich cream thicliened by souring, or 
from sweet cream thickened with rennet. This is put in a cloth and allowed to 
drain, the cloth being changed several times during the draining, which re- 
quires about 4 days. It is then placed on a board covered with a cloth, sprinkled 
with salt, and turned occasionally. It is ready for consumption in from 5 to 10 
days. 

Another variety of cream cheese is made from cream with a low content of 
fat (12 to 15 per cent). The cream is curdled with rennet, broken up to allow a 
part of the whey to escape, and is then mixed and worked into almost a paste. 
This is then molded into pieces weighing 2 to 4 ounces, which are wrapped in 
tin foil and placed on the market without curing. It is a very mild and a very 
rich cheese and is manufactured on an extensive scale by a few large factories 
in the United States. 

A so-called double-cream cheese, known in France as Fromage Double Creme, 
is made by coagulating a mixture of milk and cream and putting this into a 
cloth and allowing it to drain thoroughly, when it is salted, kneaded, and molded 
into any desired shape. It is eaten fresh. The Gervais is a cheese of this kind. 

A French cream cheese, Fromage a la Creme, is prepared by mixing sweet 
cream with well-ripened sour-milk curd or rennet curd. Another French cream 
cheese, which contains considerable salt as a preservative, is known as Demi- 
sel. There are in addition several cream cheeses having specific names, such 
as Philadelphia Cream. 

In the United States cream cheese is usually sold under some trade name, 
such as Philadelphia Cream. The manufacturers in this country have in some 
cases attempted to vary this cheese by the use of some flavoring matter or 
condiment. 

CREUSE. 

This is a skim-milk farm cheese made in the department of the same name in 
France. Coagulation is secured either by the addition of a small quantity of 
rennet or by heating the sour milk. When set with rennet the period required 
is usually 12 hours. The curd is put into earthenware molds about 7 inches in 
diameter and 5 to 6 inches in height, the bottom and sides being perforated. 
After draining for several days the cheese is removed from the molds, salted, 
and turned frequently. It becomes in time very dry and hard and may be 
preserved for a year or longer. The cheese is also ripened by placing in tightly 
closed receptacles lined with straw, in which case it becomes yellow and soft 
and acquires a very pronounced taste. 

CRISTALINNA. 

This is a hard i-ennet cheese made from cow's milk in the Canton of Grau- 
bunden, Switzerland. 

DAMEN. 

This is a soft uncured rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Hungary and is 
much in demand in the markets of Vienna. It is sometimes known as Gloire 
des Montagnes. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 19 

DANISH EXPORT. 

This cheese is made in some of the creameries of Denmark to furnish an 
outlet for the skim milk and the buttermilk. In the process of manufacture as 
high as 15 per cent of fresh buttermilk is added to the skim milk. The mixture 
is set at 98° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate in 25 minutes. The curd is 
carefully and evenly cut, stirred for a few minutes, dipped into forms having 
rounded bottoms, kneaded, pressed down, and finally covered with a board, upon 
which a weight is placed. Twelve hours later the cheeses are placed in a brine 
tank for 24 hours, when they are taken out and covered with salt for a short 
time. They are then transferred to the ripening room, where the temperature 
is about 55°, and are turned and wiped with a cloth every day for 5 weeks. The 
cheeses are cylindrical in shape and are small and flat. 

DERBYSHIRE. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from whoje cow's milk in Derbyshire, Eng- 
land. It is cylindrical in shape and about the size of the Cheshire, though often 
smaller. It is made usually in farm dairies, and because of this fact the size 
varies with the size of the herd. The quality also varies to such an extent that 
very few really good cheeses can be found. Night's milk in which the develop- 
ment of acid has been prevented as much as possible is mixed with the morning's 
milk, and the whole is set at a temperature of 80° F. The setting period is 1 
hour, and the curd is allowed to become very firm before cutting. The curd 
is cut to the size of a pea and after being allowed to settle is piled in the center 
of the vat, where, after the whey is removed, it is subjected to light pressure. 
The curd is cut and again piled and heavier pressure applied. This is repeated 
until the curd reaches a certain degree of firmness, when it is run through a' 
mill and salted at the rate of 1 pound of salt to 1,000 pounds of milk. It lb 
then put in a press for 1 hour, when it is removed and the surface of the cheese 
scalded for 1 minute in water heated to 150°. It is put back in the press for 5 
hours, the pressure applied being gradually increased, when it is salted on the 
surface and again pressed. The pressing continues for 3 days, the cheese being 
salted each day. The curing room is kept preferably at 60°, and the time 
required for curing is from 3 to 4 months. 

A cheese called Gloucester made in the county of Gloucester, England, is said 
to be identical with Derbyshire cheese. Double Gloucester is identical with 
single Gloucester in all respects but size. It is twice as thick as a single 
Gloucester, hence the name. Wiltshire, Leicestershire, and Warwickshire 
cheeses belong to the Derbyshii-e type. 

DEVONSHIRE CREAM. 

In making this cheese the cream is allowed to rise for several hours, when 
the milk with the layer of cream is scalded. It is then set away for a short 
time in order that the layer of cream may harden. The cream is then put into 
small molds and placed upon straw mats to drain. After becoming hard enough 
to retain its shape it is ready for market. 

DORSET. 

Dorset, or Blue Dorset, is a cheese resembling in character and method of 
manufacture the better known Stilton. It is named from Dorsetshire, England, 
in which it is made. 



20 VABIETIES OF CHEESE. 

DOTTER. 

This cheese is said to have been made by G. Leuchs, iu Nurnberg, by mixing 
the yolk of eggs with sliim milk and making this mixture into cheese in the 
usual way. 

DRY. 

This cheese, known also as Sperrkllse and Trockeukiise, is made in the east- 
ern part of the Bavarian Alps and in, the Tyrol, in the small dairies of those 
localities. It is an extremely simple product made for home consumption, and 
is made only in the winter season, when the milk can not be profitably used 
for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle 
which can be swung over a fire. Here it is kept warm until it is thoroughly 
thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small 
quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is 
put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it 
becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating. 

DUEL. 

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow's milk. It is an Austrian 
product, 2 by 2 by 1 inches in size. 

DUNLOP. 

This was formerly the national cheese of Scotland, but it has been almost 
superseded by the Cheddar, which it resembled. 

EDAM. 

This is a hard rennet cheese produced in Holland ; it is also known as Katzen- 
kopf, Tete de Maure, and Manbollen. The best of the product is made of un- 
skimmed cow's milk, but much of it at the present time is made from milk 
which has had at least one-half of the fat removed. The cheeses are round 
and are colored deep red on the surface or wrapped in tin foil. 

The perfectly fresh milk is set at 90° to 95° F. Color is added and sufficient 
rennet is used to coagulate the milk in 15 minutes. The curd is cut and after 
a very short stirring is allowed to settle to the bottom, when the whey is dipped 
off. The curd is gathered in a pile and pressure is applied for a short time to 
expel the whey. Care is taken in the meanwhile that the curd does not get 
below 82° or above 90°. The curd is then ready for the press. Sometimes 
wooden molds are used, but the best are made of iron. An attempt is made to 
put just sufficient curd into the mold to make a perfect sphere when pressed. 
When the mold is half full a little salt is added. When the mold is full, it is 
pressed lightly until the cheese will hold its form, when it is taken out and im- 
mersed in water for two minutes at 125°. The cheese is then put in the press, 
where it remains for 12 hours. It is then removed from one mold and placed 
in another form resembling the mold but without a cover, and having a hole 
leading from the bottom. The cheese is salted by rubbing salt on the surface. 
Sometimes it is kept in a salt bath for a day before putting salt on the surface. 
Following the salting, the cheese is washed in hot whey, and the surface is 
scraped smooth. It is then taken to the ripening cellar, which should have a 
temperature of between 50° and 70°. Here it is turned daily for a time and 
finally twice a week. In the meanwhile it is occasionally moistened with cold 
water or fresh beer. When the cheese is 1 month old it is washed in water at 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 21 

70° for 20 minutes and then placed in the sun to dry, after which it is rubbed 
with linseed oil. Before shipping the cheese is colored, usually red, but for 
some markets it is colored yellow with annatto. This coloring is done with a 
watery solution of litmus and Berlin red, or with carmine. A considerable 
quantity of this cheese is imported into the United States. At the present time 
some Edam cheeses are inclosed in air-tight tins for export. 

ELBING. 

This is a West Prussian hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk which, 
during the winter, is partly skimmed, but at other times left whole. It is 
known also as Werderkiise and Niederungskiise. Enough rennet is added to 
the milk at a temperature of 80° F. to coagulate it in fi'om 35 to 30 minutes. 
The curd is cut and cooked to 100°, salted in the granular state, and pressed 
for 12 hours. A cheese is 10 to 20 inches in diameter and 3 to 4 inches in 
thickness. Ripening requires about 1 month at a temperature of 75°. 

EMMENTAL. 

This a hard rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, and has a 
mild, somewhat sweetish flavor. It is characterized by holes or eyes which 
develop to about the size of a penny in typical cheeses and are situated from 
1 to 3 inches apart. Cheese of the same kind made in the United States is 
known as Domestic Swiss, and that made in the region of Lake Constance is 
called Algau Emmental. Other local names are Bellunese, Formaggio Dolce, 
Fontine d'Aosta, and Thraanen. 

Emmental cheese originated in Canton Bern, Valley of Emmental, Switzer- 
land. It is a very old variety. In the middle of the fifteenth century a cheese 
probably of this type was manufactured in the Canton of Emmental. In the 
middle of the seventeenth century the industry was well developed and genuine 
Emmental cheese was being exported. In 1722 its manufacture under the name 
of Gruyere is recorded in France, two cooperative societies having been organ- 
ized for this purpose. 

Emmental cheese is now manufactured in every civilized country. In the 
United States there are many factories, located principally in Wisconsin, New 
York, and Ohio. In Switzerland the greater part of the milk produced is made 
into this product, and large districts in France and northern Italy are devoted 
to its manufacture. The best of the product made in Switzerland is exported, 
about 5,000,000 pounds coming to the United States annually. The imported 
cheese sells in this country at about 25 cents a pound wholesale, and the do- 
mestic cheese sells at about 14 cents. Practically as good cheese can be manu- 
factured in the United States as in Switzerland, but prejudice, combined with 
the fact that much of the domestic product is sold as imported, has held the 
price at a low level. 

There is a slight difference in manipulation of the milk in making Emmental 
cheese in this country as compared with Switzerland. In the latter country the 
evening's and morning's milk are made up together, while in the United States it 
is popularly believed that the evening's milk must be made into cheese immedi- 
ately after milking, as is done with the morning's milk. 

In making the cheese in Switzerland the evening's milk is skimmed ; the fresh 
morning's milk is heated to 108° to 110° F. and the cream from the evening's 
milk is added and well stirred in. The cooled evening's milk with a little saf- 
fron is then added and the whole is mixed. The milk is then brought to a tem- 
perature of 90° in sumlaer and 95° in winter and sufiicient rennet is added to 



22 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

coagulate the milk in 30 to 40 ,minutes. The whole iirocess is carried through 
in a huge copper kettle holding 300 gallons of milk. The rennet used is the 
calf's stomach soaked for 24 hours in whey. When the milk has thickened to 
almost the desired point for cutting, which is practically the same as for ordi- 
nary American or Cheddar cheese, the thin surface layer is scooped off and 
turned bottom side up. This is supposed to aid in incorporating the layer of 
cream with the cheese. The curd is then cut very coarse by means of a so-called 
harp. The cheese maker with a wooden scoop in each hand then draws the 
mass of curd toward him, that lying on the bottom of the kettle being brought 
to the surface. At this point the cheese .maker and an assistant commence 
stirring the curd with the harp, a breaker having first been fitted to the inside 
of the kettle to interrupt the current of the whey and curd. The harps are 
given a circular motion and cut the curd very fine — about the size of wheat 
kernels or smaller. 

After this stage is reached heating is commenced. In Switzerland all of the 
heating until recently was done over an open fire, the kettle being swung on a 
large crane, and most of the factories have the same method at the present time. 
In this country the same method was followed in the early days of the industry, 
but at the present time inclosed fireplaces into which the kettle can be swung 
and doors closed to retain the heat are largely employed. This takes away 
much of the discomfort of the operation. In a few instances the kettles are set 
in cement and an iron car containing the fire is run under it. The more modern 
factories employ steam, and this appears to be the most satisfactory way. 
When the heating is begun the contents of the kettle are brought rapidly to the 
desired temperature, which may be from 126° to 140°, the higher temperature 
often being necessary to get the curd sufficiently firm. The stirring in the mean- 
while continues for about 1 hour, with slight intei-ruptions near the end of the 
process when the curd has become so firm that it will not mat together. The 
end of the cooking is determined by the firmness of the curd, which is judged 
by matting a small cake with pressure by the hands and noting the ease with 
which this cake breaks when held by the edge. 

When the curd is sufficiently firm the contents of the kettle are rotated 
rapidly and allowed to come to standstill as the momentum is lost. This brings 
all the curd into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle. One edge of a 
heavy linen cloth resembling burlap is wrapped around a piece of hoop iron and 
by this means the cloth is slipped under the pile of curd. The mass of curd is 
then raised from the whey by means of a rope and pulley and lowered into a 
cheese hoop on the draining table. These hoops are 4 to 6 inches deep and 
vary greatly in diameter. The cloth is folded over the cheese, a large follower 
is put on top, and the press is allowed to come down on the cheese. The press 
is usually a log swung at one end and operated by a double lever. Pressure is 
continued for the first time just long enough for the curd mass to retain its 
shape. The hoop is then removed, the cheese turned over, and a dry cloth sub- 
stituted. The cheese is allowed to remain in the press about 24 hours, during 
which time it is turned and a dry cloth substituted several times (six or more). 

At the end of the pressing the curd should be a homogeneous mass without 
holes. The cheese is then removed to the salting board, covered with a layer of 
salt, and turned occasionally. In a day or two it is put in the salting tank in a 
brine strong enough to float an egg; it remains here at the discretion of the 
cheese maker for 1 to 4 days. Often no brine tank is used with Emmental 
cheese. 

The cheese is then taken to the curing cellar. In the best factories two or 
more cellars with different temperatures are available, and the cheeses are 
placed in them according to the way the cheese maker thinks their development 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 23 

requires. If it appears that the cheese may develop too fast and have too many 
and too large eyes, the cheese is placed in a cool cellar ; if the reverse is true, a 
warm cellar is selected. ' The cellars vary in temperature from 55° to 65°, 
though in extreme cases 70° or a little higher may be used. While the cheeses 
are in the ripening cellar, which in Switzerland may be 6 to 10 months or longer, 
and in the United States 3 to 6 months, they should be turned and washed every 
other day for the first 2 or 3 months and at longer inter^-als subsequently, 
and at the same time a little coarse salt is sprinkled on the surface. In a 
few hours this salt has dissolved, and the brine is spread over the surface with 
a long-handled brush. 

The cheeses are very large, about 6 inches in thickness and sometimes as 
much as 4 feet in diameter, and weigh from 60 to 220 pounds. In shipping, a 
number of them are placed in a tub which may contain 1,000 pounds of cheese. 
Sometimes Emmental cheese is made up in the form of blocks instead of like 
millstones. The blocks are about 28 inches long and 8 inches square in the 
other dimensions. 

ENGADINE. 

This is made in the Canton of Graubiinden, Switzerland, and is a rennet 
cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk. 

ENGLISH DAIRY. 

This name is applied to a very hard cheese, made in the same general way as 
Cheddar, but cooked much more. This cheese has been made mostly in the 
United States. It is used for culinary purposes. 

^POISSE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the 
Department of Cote d'Or, France. 

ERVY. 

This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving 
its name from the village of Ervy, in the Department of Aube, France. A 
cheese is about 7 inches in diameter, 2* inches thick, and weighs about 4 pounds. 

FARM. 

This cheese, made in France, and known variously as Fromage a la Pie, Mou, 
Maigre, and Ferme, is essentiallj' the same as our Cottage cheese. The method 
of making is very simple. When the skimmed milk has become curdled the 
whey is poured off and the curd kneeded and molded into various sizes and 
shapes. Draining is sometimes hastened by placing a board and weight upon 
the curd. Salt and sometimes sweet cream are added. The cheese is consumed 
usually on the farm where made, either while fresh or after it has undergone 
fermentation. 

FILLED. 

Filled cheese is the name applied to cheese from which the butter fat has been 
removed and foreign fats added. The foreign fat is added by stirring it vio- 
lently in the milk and setting with sufficient rennet to coagulate quickly. The 
rest of the manufacture is the same as for Cheddar cheese. Filled cheese was 
very extensively manufactured in the United States for a number of years, but 
State and Federal laws have made this no longer practical. Many of the 
European varieties of cheese are counterfeited or adulterated in the same 
manner. 



24 VABIETIES OF CHEESE. 

FLOWER. 

This cheese is so named because it is made with the addition of the petals of 
various kinds of flowers, such as roses and marigolds. It is a soft cured rennet 
cheese made in England from whole cow's milk. 

FORMAGELLE. 

This is a small soft ripened rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the north- 
western part of Italy. 

FORMAGGINI. 

This name is applied to several kinds of small Italian cheeses. The kind 
designated Formaggini di Lecco is a small cylindrical dessert cheese, weighing 
about 2 ounces, made in the region of Lecco, in Lombardy. It is consumed while 
fresh and sweet and at all stages of ripening until it becomes very piquant. 
Sometimes salt, pepper, sugar, and cinnamon are mixed with this cheese, and 
occasionally oil and vinegar are added. The method of manufacture is not 
essentially different from that of other soft cheeses. Cow's milk is used with 
the addition at times of some goat's milk. Rennet is added to the warmed 
milk, which is then allowed to stand for 24 hours at a temperature of about 
55° F. The curd, with as little breaking up as possible, is allowed to drain for 
3 to 4 hours, when it is salted and put into cylindrical molds about li inches 
In diameter and 2 inches high. 

FROMAGE FORT. 

Several kinds of cooked cheese prepared in France are known by this name. 
In the Department of Ain, Fromage Fort is prepared by melting well-drained 
skim-milk curd, putting the melted mass into a cloth, and subjecting it to 
pressure and afterwards burying it in dry ashes in order to remove as much of 
the whey as possible. The mass is then grated fine and allowed to ferment for 
8 to 10 days, after which milk, butter, salt, pepper, wine, etc., are added to it, 
and the mixture is allowed to undergo further fermentation. 

Canquillote, Cancoillotte, or Fromagere, prepared in the eastern part of 
France, is a cheese of this kind, as is also the Fondue, or cooked cheese, of 
Lorraine. 

GAMMELOST. 

Gammelost is made in Norway from skimmed sour milk. The milk is cooked 
or warmed in a kettle and allowed to stand for 1 hour while the precipitated 
casein gathers at the bottom. This is taken up in a cloth, and the whole is put 
into a form where light pressure is applied. The cheese still in the cloth in the 
form is put in the hot whey for an hour, when it is again placed under pressure 
for a short period. It is put in a warm place and turned daily. At the end of 
14 days it is packed in a chest with wet straw. The cheeses vary in weight from 
24 to 65 pounds. 

GAUTRAIS. 

This is a cylindrical cheese weighing about 5 pounds and very closely resem- 
bling Port du Saint. It is made in the Department of Mayenne, France. 

GAVOT. 

This cheese is made from cow's, sheep's, or goat's milk in the Department of 
Hautes-Alpes, France. 



VAEIETIES OF CHEESE. 25 

GEHEIMRATH. 

This is a cheese made in small quantities in Holland. It resembles a small 
Gouda cheese in quality and process of manufacture. It is colored a deep yellow. 

GEROME. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the mountainous regions of the Yosges, 
France. The name is a corruption of Gerardmer, a village in the region where 
the cheese has been made for at least 50 years. The variety is very similar to 
Munster, but not so well known. 

Cow's milk is used almost exclusively, though at times a little goat's milk is 
added. The fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 80° to 90° F. 
In about one-half hour after adding the rennet the curd is cut into rather 
large cubes and allowed to stand for about 1 hour when the whey is dipped off. 
The curd is then put into cylindrical forms or hoops 6 to 7 inches in diameter. 
Formierly these were made of wood, one being placed upon another, making a 
total height of 14 to 15 inches. They are now being made also on tin and in 
various sizes. The cheeses are turned after 6 hours and again after 12 hours. 
During the next 2 or 3 days they are turned twice daily, the hoops being 
changed each time. A room temperature between 60° and 70° Is desired during 
this process. The cheeses are then salted, the amount of salt used being from 
3 to 3.5 per cent of the weight of the cheese. 

The cheeses are then placed in a well-ventilated room for several days and 
when sufficiently dry are transferred to the curing cellar. Here they are turned 
frequently and worked with warm salt water to prevent the growth of molds. 
Ripening requires from 6 weeks to 4 months, depending upon the size of the 
cheeses, which vary in weight from one-half pound to 5 pounds or more. Anise 
is sometimes incorporated with the curd before putting into the forms. Such 
cheese when old often has a greenish appearance. 

GERVAIS. 

This is a French cheese made from a mixture of whole milk and cream. The 
mixture is set with rennet at about 05° F., the time required being about 12 
hours. The curd is then inclosed in cloth and hung up to drain. When suffi- 
ciently dry it is salted and pressed into molds. The molds are soon removed and 
the cheese is wrapped in paraffin paper. The cheese is usually consumed while 
fresh, but may be kept for several days. 

GEX. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk. It belongs to the class 
of blue or marbled cheese known in France as Fromage Persille, which includes 
Sassenage, Septmoncel, and several other kinds resembling Roquefort. It is 
made principally in the southeastern part of France and derives its name from 
the town of Gex, in the Department of Ain, where the cheese has been made for 
at least 60 years. There has been little tendency for the industry to extend to 
other regions than that in which it originated, and even here it is said to be 
diminishing. 

Rennet is added to the fresh milk as soon as possible after milking. The time 
allowed for coagulation is 11 to 2 hours. The curd is then broken up and 
stirred until the mass is in a semiliquid condition, when it is allowed to stand 
for about 10 minutes. After the curd has settled to the bottom of the vat the 
whey is drained off. The curd is then worked by hand, salted lightly, and put 



26 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

into hoops about 12 inches in diameter and 5 inches in height. In about 1 hour 
the cheese is turned and a disk and weight placed upon it. The turning is re- 
peated three or four times a day, the hoops being removed at the end of the 
first day. After salting, the cheese is taken to the curing room, where it soon 
acquires a bluish appearance, due to the development of a penicillium. This 
mold is not introduced into the interior of the cheese during making by means 
of mottled bread, as is the case with Roquefort cheese. The ripening process, 
which requires from 3 to 4 months, is completed in cellars or natural caves. A 
ripened cheese weighs from 14 to 15 pounds. 

GISLEV. 
This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow's milk. 

GLUMSE. 

This cheese is made from sour skimmed milk in western Prussia. The thick- 
ened milk is placed over a slow fire at about 105° F. and is cooked as long as 
any whey is expelled. The cooking may be done by pouring hot water into 
the milk. After cooking, the curd is removed from the whey with a perforated 
dipper and is allowed to drain in a hair sieve. Milk or cream is added to the 
cheese just before eating. This is evidently a cottage cheese. 

GOAT'S MILK. 

There are a large number of goat's-milk cheeses, many of which are not des- 
ignated by local names. In France some of these are known by the names 
Chevret or Chevrotin, in Italy as Formaggio di Capra, and in German-speaking 
countries as Ziegenkase or Gaiskiisli. Among those in France to which local 
names have been attached are Gratairon, Lamothe, and Poitiers. 

The Gaiskiisli is a soft cheese made in certain parts of Gex'many and Switzer- 
land. The milk is set with sufiicient rennet to coagulate it in about 40 minutes. 
The curd is then broken up. stirred, and dipped into cylindrical molds about 3 
inches in diameter. The mold is filled sufficiently to make a cheese 1^ to 2 
inches thick and weighing one-half pound. The mold is set on a straw mat 
which allows the whey to drain freely, and salt is sprinkled on the surface. 
In 2 days the cheese is turned, and the other surface is salted. The cheese 
requires about 3 weeks to ripen and is said to have a very pleasant flavor. 

A kind of cheese is made in Norway by drying goat's milk by boiling, fresh 
milk or cream sometimes being added during the process. 

GORGONZOLA. 

This variety, known also as Stracchino di Gorgonzola, is a rennet Italian 
cheese made from whole cow's milk. The name is taken from the village of 
Gorgonzola, near Milan, but very little of this cheese is now made in that 
immediate locality. The interior of the cheese is mottled or veined with a peni- 
cillium much like Roquefort, and for this reason the cheese has been grouped 
with the Roquefort and Stilton varieties. As seen upon the markets in this 
country, the surface of the cheese is covered with a thin coat resembling clay, 
said to be pi'epared by mixing barite or gypsum, lard or tallow, and coloring 
matter. The cheeses are cylindrical in shape, being about 12 inches in diameter 
and 6 inches in height, and as marketed are wrapped in paper and packed with 
straw in wicker baskets. 

The manufacture of Gorgonzola cheese is an important industry in Lombardy, 
where formerly it was carried on principally during the months of September 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 27 

and October, but with the establishment of curing cellars in the Alps, especially 
near Lecco, the manufacture is no longer confined to this season. 

The milk used in making this cheese is warmed to a temperature of about 75° 
F. and coagulated rapidly with rennet, the time required being usually from 15 to 
20 minutes. The curd is then cut very finely and inclosed in a cloth and drained, 
after which it is put into hoops 12 inches In diameter and 10 inches high. It 
was formerly the custom to allow the curd from the evening's milk to drain over 
night and to mix it with the fresh warm curd from the morning's milk prepared 
in the same way. The curd from the evening's milk and that from the morn- 
ing's milk, crumbled very fine, were put into hoops in layers with moldy bread 
crumbs Interspersed between the layers. The cheese is turned frequently for 
4 or 5 days, the cloths being changed occasionally, and is salted from the out- 
side, the process requiring about 2 weeks. It is then transferred to the curing 
rooms, where a low temperature is usually maintained. At an early stage in 
the process of ripening the cheese is usually punched with an instrument about 
6 inches long, tapering from a sharp point to a diameter of about one-eighth 
inch at the base. About 150 holes are made in each cheese. This favors the 
development of the penicillium throughout the interior of the cheese. Well- 
made cheese may be kept for a year or longer. In the region where made much 
of the cheese is consumed while in a fresh condition. 

GOUDA. 

This is a Holland cheese made from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. It 
is round and weighs 10 to 45 pounds. The milk, to which coloring matter 
has been added, is set at 91° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 15 
minutes. The curd is cut or broken with a wooden scoop, a harp, or an Amer- 
ican cheese knife. It is allowed to stand for a minute and the whey is dipped 
off. Hot whey or hot water is poured on the mass of curd until the whole 
has reached a temperature of 104° to 110°. When the curd squeaks or whistles 
when it is crushed between the teeth the whey or water is dipped off and the 
curd is stirred and piled where it will drain well. The curd is then thoroughly 
kneaded and sometimes lightly salted. After salting, the curd is put into 
round molds and placed in a press, where it remains for 24 hours with increas- 
ing pressure. The cheese is then salted either by immersion in brine or by 
rubbing salt on the surface. The salting continues for 4 to 8 days. After 
salting, the cheese is washed with hot whey. It is then transferred to the 
ripening cellar, where it is turned daily for several days and finally once a 
week until ripened. It is ready for consumption in 6 to 8 months. When the 
cheese is a few days old it is washed with water and colored with saffron. 
Some of this cheese is shipped to the United States. As seen in this country, 
each cheese is covered with an animal tissue said to be a bladder. 

GOURNAY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese which derives its name from the village of Gour- 
nay in the Department of Seine-Iuferieure, France, where it is made. It is 
about 3 inches in diameter and three-fourths inch thick. 

GOYA. 

This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Corrientes, in the Argentine 
Republic. Either whole or partly skimmed milk is used. It is heated to a tem- 
perature of 75° to 85° F. and coagulated with rennet in 15 to 30 minutes. The 
curd is cut and put into* sacks to drain, after which it is put into molds. 



28 VABIETIES OF CHEESE. 

GRANULAR CURD. 

This cheese resembles the genuine Cheddar process cheese in all points ex- 
cepting that it is not matted and milled. As soon as the curd is cooked firm 
enough it is salted and pressed. Because no acid is developed between cooking 
and pressing, a little more acid may be allowed to develop before drawing the 
whey, and the curd should be cooked firmer. 

GRAY. 

This is a sour skim-milk product of the Tyrol. When the milk is thickened 
the curd is brought to a proper firmness by light heating, and is then dipped 
into a cheese cloth, care being taken that the flocculent matter at the bottom 
of the kettle is thoroughly mixed with the rest of the curd in order to insure an 
even product. The curd is put under a press for 10 minutes, when it is broken 
up by hand or in a mill and salt and pepper are added. The curd is then put 
into forms or hoops, and to insure the proper ripening a little well-ripened 
grated gray cheese is added, or bread crumbs with the characteristic mold 
growth are mixed with the curd as it is put into the forms. The forms are 
made in various shapes and sizes and are supplied with holes to facilitate 
drainage. The cheese remains in the forms under pressure for 24 hours, and 
is then taken to the di'yiug room, which has a temperature of 70° F. The 
length of time it should remain in the drying room is determined by the appear- 
ance of the cheese. It is then taken to the ripening cellar. The cheese when 
ripened has a pleasant taste and a gray appearance through the entire mass. 

GRUYERE. 

This name is applied to Emmental cheese manufactured in France, the name 
originating from the Swiss village of Gruyere. The cheese was first mentioned 
in 1722, when two societies were reported to have been organized for its manu- 
facture. The Gruyere cheese is made in three different qualities — whole milk, 
partly skimmed, and skimmed. It is usually made from partly skimmed milk, 
and this is supposed to distinguish it from Emmental, which is supposed to 
be made from whole milk. The manufacture of Gruyere cheese is an extensive 
industry in France, about 50,000,000 pounds having been manufactured annually 
the latter part of the last century. 

GUSSING. 

This is an Austrian skim-milk cheese weighing from 4 to S pounds. It re- 
sembles very much the Brick cheese of the United States and is made in practi- 
cally the same way. 

HAND. 

Hand cheese is so named because it was molded originally into its final shape 
by hand. It is a sour-milk cheese, very popular among German races, and 
manufactured in many countries. 

The process of making varies in different localities, but in general is about 
as follows : The skimmed milk is mixed with buttermilk and put into a tinned 
vessel, where it is held at a favorable temperature for souring. When thick 
the curd is broken up by stirring and heated to 120° F. The cooking is con- 
tinued for about 3 hours and for the first hour of this time is stirred thoroughly. 
After cooking, the whey is drained off and the curd is put in a mold for cooling. 
It is then ground fine in a curd mill and salt is incorporated, and for some kinds 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 29 

caraway seed is added. The curd is then pressed into the desired shapes and 
sizes. The small cheeses are dried in a warm room and then transferred to the 
curing cellar, where they are kept on shelves until the ripening on the surface 
has commenced, when they are packed in boxes. The cheese has a very sharp, 
pungent odor and taste, which to most people unaccustomed to it is very dis- 
agreeable. 

There are many local names for hand cheeses, among which are the following : 
Thuringia caraway cheese; Ihlefeld, made in Mecklenburg; Livlander, made in 
Russia ; Olmiitzer Bierkiise ; Dresdener Bierkiise ; Satz, made in Saxony ; 
Tyrol sour cheese ; Berliner Kuhkiise ; and Alt Kuhkase. 

HARZ. 

This is a hand cheese made in different sizes. It is 14 to 2i inches in diam- 
eter and one-fourth to three-fourths inch in thickness and weighs one-fourth 
pound. It is identical in manufacture with hand cheese. 

HAY. 

This cheese, known as Fromage de Foin, is a skim-milk variety made in the 
Department of Seine-Inferieure, France. The cheese derives its name from 
the fact that it is ripened on as freshly cut hay as possible, which gives a 
characteristic aroma to the cheese. The cheese in some respects resembles a 
poor grade of Livarot. It is about 10 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches 
thick. 

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. In about 1 
hour the curd is cut and the whey removed; the curd is then pressed to re- 
move as much of the whey as possible, after which it is pressed by hand into 
molds. After draining for about 2 days it is put into the drying room, where 
it remains for about 3 weeks, when it is taken to the curing cellar and buried 
in hay. After remaining here for 6 weeks to 3 months it is ready for sale. 
The consumption of this variety is largely restricted to the region where it is 
made. 

HOHENHEIM. 

This is a soft cheese made in Hohenheim from partly skimmed milk. It is 
cylindrical in shape, 4 to 6 inches in diameter, and weighs about one-half pound. 

The skimmed evening's milk is added to the morning's milk and heated in 
a copper kettle to 110° F. Some saffron is used for color and rennet is added. 
In 1 to li hours the curd is broken up and the whey dipped off. Caraway 
seed is stirred in, by which process the curd is reduced to smaller particles. 
It is then dipped into tin hoops having holes to allow easy draining. The 
curd remains in these hoops for 12 hours and an additional 12 hours on a dry- 
ing board. It is then sprinkled with salt and when this is dissolved it is again 
salted and placed in the ripening cellar. Ripening requires 3 months. 

HOLSTEIN HEALTH. 

This is a cooked cheese made from sour skimmed milk, the local name being 
Holsteiner Gesundheits Kiise. The milk is heated lightly and the curd is 
strongly pressed; it is then well mixed and put in a tin kettle. A little cream 
and salt are added and the whole is stirred while it is being heated to the 
melting temperature over a fire. It is then put into a hoop or mold which 
holds about one-half pound and is allowed to cool. 



30 VAEIETIES OF CHEESE. 

HOLSTEIN SKIM-MILK. 

As the name indicates, this is a skim-milk clieese made in the Province of 
Holsteiu, where it is known as Holsteiner Magerkase. Usually in the manu- 
facture of this cheese 6 per cent of buttermilk is added to separator skim milk. 
A part is heated to 160° F. and the remainder is mixed with the pasteurized 
portion. The milk is colored with saffron, and rennet powder is used for 
coagulating the casein, which requires about 35 minutes. The curd is then 
broken up and allowed to remain in the whey for 30 minutes without stirring. 
A cloth is then used for lifting the curd from the whey, and 1 per cent of salt 
is mixed in. The curd is pressed for one-half hour, when it is turned and 
pressure again applied. The pressure is gradually increased from 5 pounds 
to 9 pounds for each pound of cheese. The cheese is transferred to the curing 
cellar, which has a temperature of 60°. It is here turned daily until ripened, 
which requires 4 months. Each cheese weighs from 12 to 14 pounds. 

HOP. 

Hop or Hopfen cheese is a German product. The ground curd is salted and 
allowed to ripen for 3 or 4 days, when it is mixed with fresh curd and molded 
into small cheeses measuring about 2i inches in diameter and 1 inch in thick- 
ness. These are placed in a well- ventilated room and allowed to become quite 
dry, when they are packed in hops. 

HVID GJEDEOST. 

This is a goat's-milk cheese made in Norway. The milk is set at 70° F. 
or higher. The curd is broken up and is cooked in the usual manner. It is 
then pressed in forms 9 to 10 inches long, 6 inches broad, and 4 inches high. 
The cheese is made only for local consumption. 

ILHA. 

Ilha is a Portuguese word meaning island, and is applied to the cow's milk 
cheeses made in the Azore Islands and imported quite extensively into Portugal. 
They are moderately firm cheeses measuring 10 to 12 inches in diameter and 
about 4 inches in thickness. 

INCANESTRATO. 

This name is applied to cheese made in Sicily. The mixture of evening's and 
morning's milk is curdled with rennet in about three-fourths of an hour. The 
curd is then stirred thoroughly and 2 per cent of water is added. After stand- 
ing for 5 minutes the curd is separated from the whey, pressed by hand, and 
sometimes allowed to ferment for 2 to 3 days, when it is cooked in whey and then 
pressed and salted. Various spices are added. A kind known as Majocchiuo and 
made in the region of Messina, out of cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk, contains 
olive oil. 

ISIGNY. 

This is an American cheese originating about 30 years ago in attempts to 
make Camembert cheese in this country. The proper ripening for Camembert 
cheese was not secured and hence a distinct name was given to the product. 
The cheese is slightly larger than Camembert but of the same shape. The 
ripened product bears a close resemblance to Limburg. The process of manu- 
facture is similar to that of Camembert. During ripening, however, the cheese 
is washed and rubbed occasionally to check the growth of molds on the surface. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 31 

JACK. 

Jack cheese was first made in Monterey County, Cal., about 25 years ago and 
was first called Monterey cheese. Its manufacture under this name is still 
limited to that State, but its method of manufacture agrees closely with the 
granular curd method for Cheddar cheese. Morning's and evening's milk is 
mixed and warmed in a vat from 86° to 88° F. and rennet extract added at the 
rate of 6 to 8 ounces per l;000 pounds of milk. No coloring matter is used. It 
If ready for the curd knife in about half an hour, its readiness being determined 
as in Cheddar cheese. The cutting is done with a curd knife, the product then 
being stirred by hand and by rake. The curd is heated from 98° in winter to 
105° to 110° in summer. After the temperature is up it is stirred occasionally 
with the rake until the whey is drawn at 0.14 to 0.15 per cent acidity. The curd 
is then stirred thoroughly to keep from matting and is salted at the rate of IJ 
pounds to 100 pounds of curd, the whole being thoroughly stirred. During the 
salting process cold water is run under the vat, the hot water having been 
previously run off. 

The curd is put into press cloths at a temperature of 80° to 85° F., no hoops 
being used. One gallon of curd is put into each cloth, making a cheese weighing 
Gi pounds. The corners of the cloth are caught up tight, the cheese being 
pressed and rolled with the other hand. These are then pressed over night and 
placed in the curing rooms for 3 weeks before being ready to ship. 

JOCHBERG. 

This cheese is made from a mixture of cow's and goat's milk in the Tyrol. 
The cheese weighs 45 pounds and is 20 inches in diameter and 4 inches high. 

JOSEPHINE. 

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk in Silesia. It 
is put up in small cylindrical packages. 

KAJMAK. 

The Turkish word Kajmak signifies cream and is used to designate a product 
made in Servia and sometimes known as Servian butter. This product is, how- 
ever, analogous to a cream cheese. The milk is boiled and put into large 
shallow vessels usually made of wood, and allowed to stand for 12 hours, when 
the cream is removed and usually salted. The flavor varies greatly with the 
age of the sample and is said to be between that of a goat's-milk cheese and 
Roquefort. 

KASCAVAL. 

This is a loaf-shaped rennet cheese weighing from 4 to 6 pounds, made from 
sheep's milk in Bulgaria, Roumania, and Transylvania. Goat's milk is some- 
times added. Considerable quantities of the cheese are exported. 

KATSCHKAWALJ. 

This is a sheep's milk cheese made in Servia. The milk is curdled with ren- 
net and the curd is drained and inclosed in tin cans which are put into boiling 
water. The curd is subsequently worked by hand and molded into various 
shapes. A cheese weighs ordinarily about 6 pounds. 

KJARSGAARD. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow's milk. 



32 VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 

KLOSTER. 

This is a soft ripened reunet clieese made from unskimmed cow's milk. It 
lias a somewhat unusual shape, 1 by 1 by 4 inches, and weighs less than one- 
fourth pound. 

KOLOS-MONOSTOR. 

This is a sheep's-milk rennet cheese made in the agricultural school in 
Transylvania. The cheese is rectangular in shape, 82 by 5 by 3 inches, and 
weighs 4 pounds. 

KOPPEN. 

Koppenkase is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany. The milk is set at 
80° to 85° F., and after the whey has been dipped off the curd is put into a cup- 
shaped vessel which gives form to the cheese and also the name. The cheese is 
placed in a warm room and sprinkled with salt. It is allowed to dry for from 2 
to 3 days and is then placed in the ripening room. The ripened cheese weighs 
from 3 to 4 ounces. It has a sharp, pungent, slightly smoky flavor. 

KOSHER. 

This cheese under various names is made in several countries. It is a cow's- 
milk rennet cheese made for the Jewish trade. The process of manufacture 
resembles that of Limburg. The cheese, however, is eaten fresh. 

KOSHER GOUDA. 

This is a cheese made especially for the Jewish trade. It is identical with a 
Gouda cheese in every way except in size and in having no bladder covering. 
It weighs from 4 to 6 pounds and is 8J inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. 
It bears a stamp which identifies it to the Jewish consumer. Small quantities 
are imported into this country. 

KRUTT. 

Krutt, or Kirgischerkiise, is made by the nomadic tribes of the middle Asiatic 
Steppes from sour skim milk of the cow, goat, sheep, or camel. When the milk 
coagulates salt is added and the curd is hung up in a sack to drain, after which 
it is subjected to moderate pressure. The curd is then made up into small balls 
which are placed in the sun to dry. 

KUHBACH. 

This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed 
cow's milk. It is a German product, made in upper Bavaria. It is cylindrical 
in shape, weighs 2 pounds, and is 6 inches in diameter and 3 inches high. 

LAGUIOLE. 

This is a hard rennet cheese varying but little if any from Cantal and re- 
sembling Roquefort. It derives its name from the village of Laguiole in the 
Department of Aveyron, France. The cheese is made extensively in the moun- 
tains of Aubrac, where it is said to have been made at the time of the Roman 
occupation. The milk, either whole or partly skimmed, is set with rennet, the 
time allowed being about 30 minutes. The curd is allowed to ferment for about 
24 hours and is then put into hoops and pressed. At least 1 month is required 
for- ripening. Laguiole or Guiole cheese is considered superior to Cantal, 
although the two varieties are made in essentially the same way. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 33 

LANCASHIRE. 

This is an English cheese named from the county in which it is made. The 
evening's milk is partly skimmed and is heated, so that when the morning's 
milk is added the temperature of the whole is brought to 80° F., or slightly 
higher. Enough rennet is added to coagulate the milk in 1 hour. The curd is 
broken up, stirred for a short time, and pressed on the bottom of the Aat by 
means of a heavy sieve. The whey is soon drained oft" and the curd is ground 
in a curd mill into particles the size of kernels of com and then put into the 
press. Salting is done in brine, in which the cheese is placed for 4 to 6 days. 
From the brine tank the cheese is transferred to the curing room. 

LANGRES. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the northeastern part of France. It 
derives its name from the village of Langres in the Department of Haute-Marne, 
where it is said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. 
The perfectly fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 90° to 
95° P. After standing for several hours it is put into cylindrical forms. The 
cheeses ripen for about 2 to 3 months. A ripened cheese weighs from 1* to 2 
pounds and is about 5 inches in diameter and S inches high. The cheese is 
consumed for the most part in the region where made. 

LAPLAND. 

The Laplanders make a variety of cheese from the milk of the reindeer. It 
resembles very much the harder varieties of the Emmental group. The cheese 
has a very unusual shape. It is round and flat and is so formed that a cross 
section would resemble a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. 

LATTICINI. 

This is applied to cheeses made from the milk of buffaloes, particularly in the 
region of Naples, but also in other parts of Italy. 

LEATHER. 

Leather, Leder, or Holstein dairy cheese is made in Schleswig-Holsteiu, from 
skimmed cow's milk with an addition of from 5 to 10 per cent of buttermilk. 

The milk is set at from 95° to 100° F. and requires 25 to 35 minutes for 
coagulation. It is then broken up with a harp or a stirring stick, and is stirred 
with a Danish stirrer. When the particles are reduced to the size of peas the 
curd is piled up on one side of the vat or kettle and allowed to stand for 10 
minutes. The whey is then dipped off. The curd is cut with a knife into pieces 
the size of the hand, put in a wooden or tin bowl, and pressed for one-half hour, 
when it is cut into pieces and run through a cheese mill. It is then salted, put 
in a cloth, and again put in the press, where the pressure is gradually increased. 
The cheese is turned occasionally and a fresh dry cloth supplied. After 12 
hours of pressing the cheese is put into the salt bath, where it is kept 40 to 48 
hours. It is then transferred to the ripening cellar, where it is wiped with a 
dry cloth every day for about a week and thereafter twice a week, the ripening 
requiring about 4 months. The cured cheese has small eyes ; it is made cylin- 
drical, and is 4 to 6 inches in height and 10 to 12 inches in diameter. It weighs 
15 to 25 pounds. 

10415°— Bull. 146—11 3 



34 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

LEICESTER. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. It is named from 
a county in England where it is made. It resembles the better known Cheshire 
and Cheddar in eA'^ery way. 

Evening's and morning's milk are mixed and set at a temperature of from 
76° to 84° F. The curd is allowed to set very firm, which requires 90 minutes. 
It is cut very carefully and allowed to settle 20 minutes, when the whey is 
drawn off. The curd is then gathered in a cloth, pressed, and broken up several 
times until a certain degree of dryness has been attained, and then salted 
lightly and put to press. Pressure is continued for 5 days, the cheese being 
removed and salted on the outside each day. 

LEYDEN. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Holland, where it is known also as 
Bergues, Delft, Komynde, Koejekaars, and Hobbe. The milk, which is either 
partly or entirely skimmed, is set with rennet at 72° to 75° F. It is allowed 
to stand for 1 hour, when the curd is cut and then stirred while being warmed 
up to 97°. The heating is done by pouring hot whey over the curd. The curd 
is then dipped out with a cloth and kneaded by hand. Caraway seed is added 
to a portion of the curd which, in filling the hoops, constitutes the middle of 
three layers. The cheese is then put in press. It is turned after 3 hours and 
a fresh cloth applied. The pressing continues for 24 hours. Salting is done 
on the surface daily. If the rind becomes hard it is washed in whey or water, 
and occasionally milk is smeared on the surface. The surface is colored with 
litmus in alkaline water. A ripened cheese weighs about 25 pounds and is 12 
inches in diameter and 3* to 5 inches in thickness. As seen on the American 
market, it has a very dark-brown surface. 

LIMBURG. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk which may contain all of 
the fat or be partly or entirely skimmed. The best Limburg is undoubtedly 
made from whole milk. This cheese has a very strong and characteristic odor 
and taste. The cheese is about 6 by 6 by 3 inches and weighs about 2 pounds. 

The most common synonyms of Limburg are Backstein and Herve. There 
are, however, many local names for this kind of cheese, such as Algau, Lanark, 
Marianhof, Morin, St. Michels, Schiitzen, Tanzenberg, Carinthian, Grottenhof, 
Emmersdorf, Briol, and Lindenhof. 

Limburg cheese originated in the Province of Liittich, Belgium, in the neigh- 
borhood of Herve, and was marketed in Limburg, Belgium. Its manufacture 
has spread to Germany and Austria, where it is very popular, and to the United 
States, where large quantities are made, mostly in New York and Wisconsin. 

Sweet milk is set without any coloring matter at a temperature of from 91° 
to 96° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate the milk in about 40 minutes. In 
foreign countries a kettle is used, but in the United States an ordinary rectangu- 
lar cheese vat is found to be more satisfactory. The curd is cut or broken into 
pieces about one-third-inch cube and is stirred for a short time without addi- 
tional heating. It is then dipped into rectangular forms 28 inches long, 5J inches 
broad, and about 8 inches deep. These forms are kept on a draining board, 
where the whey drains out freely. When the cheese has been in the forms, with 
frequent turnings, for a sufficient length of time to retain its shape it is removed 
to the salting table, where the surface is rubbed with salt daily. When the 
surface of the cheese commences to get slippery, the cheese is put in a ripening 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 35 

cellar having a temperature of about 60°. While in the cellar the surface of 
each cheese is rubbed thoroughly at frequent intervals. Ripening requires 1 to 
2 months. When ripe the cheese is wrapped in paper, and then in tin foil, and 
put in boxes, each containing about 50 cheeses. 

No Limburg is imported into this country at the present time, contrary to 
the popular belief. This type of cheese is made so cheaply and of such good 
quality in this country that the foreign make has been crovv^ded out of the 
market. 

LIPTAU. 

This cheese is made in the Provinces of Liptau, Saros, and Ai'va, in Hungary, 
from sheep's milk. Condiments, especially red i>epper, are usually added. It is 
rather greasy and has a sharp taste. The details of manufacture are the same 
as for Brinsen cheese. 

LIVAROT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk more or less skimmed. It 
derives its name from the village of Livarot in the Department of Calvados, 
France, where the industry is centralized. This cheese has the advantage over 
Camembert made in the same region in that it may be manufactured and con- 
sumed during the warm months. 

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 95° to 104° F. After li to 
2 hours the curd is cut and placed on a rush mat or a cloth and allowed to 
drain for about 15 minutes, during which time it is crumbled as finely as 
possible. It is then put into tin hoops or forms 6 inches in diameter and the 
same in height. The cheeses are turned very frequently until they become firm, 
when they are salted and left on the draining board for 4 or 5 days. At this 
stage they are sometimes sold as white cheese, but more often they are trans- 
ferred to a well-ventilated room for 15 to 20 days and then to the curing cellar, 
which is kept very tightly closed. By thus retaining the ammonia and other 
products the cheese acquires a strong, piquant taste. During ripening the 
cheeses are turned two or three times a week and occasionally wiped with a 
cloth moistened with salt water. After ripening for 10 to 12 days they are 
wrapped with the leaves of Typha latifoUa. commonly called laiche. In 3 to 5 
months they are colored with annatto and marketed. 

LORRAINE. 

This is a small sour-milk hand cheese made in Lorraine, Germany, and regarded 
as a delicacy in that country. It is seasoned with pepper, salt, and pistachio 
nuts, and is eaten in a comparatively fi-esh state. The cheeses are made in 
sizes of about 2 ounces and sell for a very high price — at the rate of about 50 
cents a pound. 

LUNEBERG. 

This cheese is made in the small valleys of the Voralberg Mountains in the 
western part of Austria. The art of cheese making in this locality was 
imported from Switzerland, and the copper kettle and characteristic presses are 
used. Saffron is used for coloring, and the milk is warmed in the copper kettle 
to 87° to 90° F., at which temperature the rennet is added, enough being used 
to coagulate the milk in 20 to 30 minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size 
of hazelnuts and is cooked with stirring to a temperature of 122°. The curd 
is dipped into cloths which are put into wooden forms and light pressure is 
applied. The curd remains in the press for 24 hours, during which time it is 



36 VARIETIES OF CHEESE, 

turned occasionally aud a dry cloth supplied. The cheese is then taken to the 
cellar aud is salted on the surface. In the cellar it is rubbed and washed 
occasionally. When ripe it is said to be about midway in type between Emmen- 
tal aud Limburg. 

MACONNAIS. 

This is a French goat's-milk cheese, 2 inches square by IJ inches thick. 

MACQUELINE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Camembert type, 4 inches in diameter and 
1^ inches thick, made from whole or partly skimmed milk, in the region of 
Senlis, in the Department of Oise, France. The milk is set with rennet at a 
temperature of about 80° F. and allowed to stand for 5 hours, when the curd 
is put into hoops. After 24 hours the hoops are removed and the cheese is 
salted and taken to the curing room, where it remains for 20 days or more. A 
cheese weighs about one-fourth of a pound and requires about 2 liters of milk 
in its manufacture. The cheese sells at a lower price than Camembert, made 
in the same region. 

MAIKASE. 

This is a cheese resembling Gouda. It is made iu Holland in the early sum- 
mer, is softer than the regular Gouda, and hence can be marketed at an earlier 

period. 

MAINZ HAND. 

This is a typical hand cheese, sometimes called Pimp. The milk is treated iu 
the usual way, and the curd after cooling is thoroughly kneaded by hand, the 
thoroughness of this manipulation influencing the quality of the cheese. The 
curd is then pressed by hand into flat cakes and allowed to dry for a week. 
They are then packed in a jar or keg and placed in a cellar for ripening. This 
requires from 6 to 8 weeks. 

MALAKOFF. 

This is another form of Neufchatel cheese about 2 inches in diameter and 
one-half of an inch in thickness. It may be consumed either while fresh or 
after ripening. 

MANUR. 

This cheese is made in Servia from either sheep's or cow's milk. The milk is 
first heated to the boiling temperature and then cooled until the fingers can be 
held in it. A mixture of buttermilk and fresh whey with renuet is added. 
The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is 
kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and dried. 

MAQUIEE. 

This is a soft rennet brick-shaped cheese made from cow's milk iu Belgium. 
It is known where made as Fromage Mou. 

MARKISCH HAND. 

This cheese is similar to a hand cheese. The milk is treated in the same 
way as in hand cheese up to the salting. The curd is then put in a linen sack 
and heavy pressure is applied. The mass is then cut into oblong pieces and 
allowed to dry and cure Us regular hand cheese. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 37 

MAROILLES. 

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont I'Eveque type made from whole or 
partly skimmed cow's milk in the Departments of Aisne and Nord, France. 
There are several kinds, varying in size, shape, and details of manufacture, of 
which the Tuile de Flandre and Larron are best known. The cheese as made 
at Maroilles is about 6 inches square and 2 inches thick; that made at Saint 
Aubin, 5 inches square and 3 inches thick. The Larron is about 2i inches 
square and li inches thick, and weighs about 6 ounces. The Tuile de Flandre 
is about twice as large. The Dauphin is semilunar in shape and contains herbs. 
A pear-shaped form designated Boulette may be made in part from buttermilk. 

The best cheese is made from fresh whole milk, although the most of it is 
made from milk partly or entirely skimmed. The temperature of setting with 
rennet is about 75° F. and the time allowed from 1 to 4 hours. The curd is 
drained for 1 to 2 hours in a box having a perforated bottom, and is then put 
into square forms or hoops 5 to 6 inches on a side and 3 to 4 inches high. 
The cheese is turned frequently until firm and then salted on all six faces and 
taken to the curing cellar, where it is washed frequently with salt water to 
prevent the growth of molds. Ripening requires 3 to 5 months. Defective 
cheeses are said to be common. 

MASCARPONE. 

This is an Italian cream cheese about 2 inches in diameter and 2^ inches in 
height. The cream is heated to about 194° F. and dilute acetic or tartaric acid 
is added. The mixture is stirred and drained through cloth and then put into 
molds. It is eaten in a fresh condition. 

MECKLENBURG SKIM. 

This is a rennet cheese made from skim milk and named from the province in 
which it is made. The milk is placed in a copper kettle and warmed with steam. 
Satfron is added for coloring and sufficient rennet is used to coagulate the milk 
in 30 minutes. The curd is broken up into particles the size of peas. The tem- 
perature is raised to 92° F. in 12 minutes. The curd is then removed from the 
kettle by means of a cloth and put into a hoop and pressure applied. This is 
increased gradually until it reaches fifteen times the weight of the cheese in 24 
hours. The cheese is then placed in a drying room held at 70° until a rind is 
formed. As much salt is then sprinkled on the surface as can be absorbed. In 
the meanwhile the cheese is taken from the drying room and placed in the reg- 
ular curing room, which has a temperature of 60° and a relative humidity of 
85 to 95 per cent. 

MIGNOT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese either cylindrical or cubical in form. It has been 
made in the Department of Calvados, France, for over 100 years and 
resembles Pont I'fivgque and Livarot. There are two types of this cheese; 
designated w^hite and passe ; the first, a fresh cheese, is made during the period 
from April to September, and the second, a ripened cheese, is made during the 
remainder of the year. 

MONTASIO. 

This cheese originated in the part of Carinthia, in Austria, called Friaul, 
where the annual product is now valued at $600,000. At the present time it is 
made not only in Carinthia but in the neighboring provinces and in Italy. 



38 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

The milk, either whole or partly skimmed, and consisting usually of a mix- 
ture of cow's and goat's milk, is heated in a kettle to 95' F. and sufficient ren- 
net is added to coagulate it in 30 to 40 minutes. It is then cut very carefully 
to the size of peas and heated gradually to a temperature of 120°. When the 
desired temperature is reached, which is usually in about one-half hour, heat- 
ing is stopped and the stirring continued for 30 to 40 minutes. Some of the 
whey is dipped from the kettle and the curd is removed by means of a cloth. 
The cheese is pressed for 24 hours, during which time it is turned frequently. 
The salting requires usually about one month, the total amount applied varying 
from 2^ to 3 per cent of the weight of the pressed cheese. After salting, the 
cheese is taken to a well-ventilated room and allowed to dry. In this room the 
cheese is turned frequently and rubbed in order to free it from molds. When 
dry it is scraped carefully and taken to the curing cellar. The cheese is here 
rubbed frequently with a coarse cloth, and when the rind has become firm and 
does not show the presence of mold, olive oil is usually applied. Sometimes the 
rind is colored black by means of soot. 

The fresh cheese is almost white. The old cheese becomes yellow, granular, 
and has a sharp taste and characteristic odor. It is usually eaten when 3 to 
12 months of age, but may be kept much longer and then grated. 

MONTAVONER. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Austria. During the process of manufac- 
ture dried herbs iAcftiUea 7tioschata and .4. atrata) are added. 

MONT CENIS. 

This is a hard rennet cheese resembling the imitation Roquefort varieties like 
Gex and Septmoncel and made in the region of Mont Cents, in the southeastern 
part of France. The milk used is usually a mixture of cow's, sheep's, and 
goat's. The evening's milk is usually skimmed and added to that of the morn- 
ing. Primitive methods of cheese making are employed. The milk is set with 
rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. The curd is then cut and allowed to 
drain for 24 hours, when fresh curd is thoroughly mixed with it. The mixture 
is then put into molds and moderate pressure applied. After turning frequently 
for several days, and salting, it is transferred to the curing cellar, where it is 
turned frequently, washed with salt water to check the growth of molds on the 
surface, and allowed to ripen for 3 to 4 mouths. The ripening is due mainly to 
a penicillium which is sometimes incorporated in the curd by means of moldy 
bread. A ripened cheese is about IS inches in diameter, 6 to 8 inches in height, 
and weighs about 25 pounds. 

MONT D'OR. 

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont r£)veque type, formerly made from 
goat's milk but now made almost exclusively from cow's milk. Sometimes a 
small amount of goat's milk is added to the cow's milk. 

It derives its name from Mont d'Or, near Lyon, in the Department of Rhone, 
France, where it is said to have been made for over three centuries At the 
present time it is made not only in Rhone and neighboring Departments but 
in the other parts of France, especially Eure and Oise. 

Whole or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° 
to 100° F. The curd, in from one-half hour to 2 hours after the addition of 
the rennet to the milk and with or without cutting, is put into circular forms 
or hoops about 4A inches in diameter and 3 inches high. These rest upon a 



VARIETIES OF CHEESfi. 30 

draining board covered with straw. After about 1 hour the cheese is turned, 
and frequently thereafter until firm. A disk with a light weight is sometimes 
placed upon each cheese in order to hasten the removal of the whey. The 
cheese is salted on the surface. Much of it is sold in a fresh condition. It is 
also ripened for about one week in summer and 2 to 3 weeks in winter, during 
which time it is turned frequently and washed with salt water to prevent the 
growth of molds. 

MONTHLERY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Seine-et-Oise, France. 
A large cheese is about 2 inches thick and 14 inches in diameter and weighs 
about 5i pounds. There is also a smaller sized cheese which weighs about 3 
pounds. Either whole milk or partly skimmed milk is used. Rennet is added 
to the milk at ordinary temperatures, and the curd when sufficiently firm is 
broken up, put into molds, and subjected to pressure. After salting the cheese 
is cured for S to 35 days in a so-called drying room and then ripened in a 
cellar at a temperature of about 55° F. During ripening the cheese becomes 
covered at first with a whitish mold and later with a blue mold in which red 
spots appear. It is ready for sale at the end of about 1 month. 

MOZARINELLI. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Italy. 

MUNSTER. 

Miinster is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk in the western 
part of Germany, near the A^osges Mountains, and named from the city of 
Miinster, near which it is made. Similar cheese made in the neighboring por- 
tion of France is called Gerome, and Miinster cheese made near Colmar and 
Strassburg is sometimes given the names of these two cities. 

The milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 30 
minutes. The curd is then broken up and allowed to stand for 30 to 45 minutes 
without stirring, when it is dipped with a sieve which holds back the small 
particles of curd and gives a slight pressure to the curd. After removing the 
whey the curd is scooped into forms or hoops and caraway or anise seed is 
usually added. The hoops are made in two parts, the lower of which is 4 
inches liigh and 7 inches in diameter with holes in the bottom for draining, and 
the upper of which is of the same dimensions. The whole resembles an ordi- 
nary cheese hoop with bandages. The hoop is lined with cheese cloth. After 
the cui'd has been in the hoop for 12 hours the upper part of the hoop can be 
removed. The cheese is turned and the cloth removed. The cheese is now put 
in the upper portion of the hoop and turned frequently for 4 to 6 days. The 
temperature is held in the meanwhile at 68°. After salt has been rubbed on 
the surface daily for 3 days the cheese is taken to the cellar, which has a tem- 
perature of 51° to 55°, where it is allowed to ripen for 2 to 3 months. The 
cheese sells for about 15 cents a pound when ripe. 

MYSOST. 

Mysost is made from whey and is a product of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, 
and to a very limited extent of the United States. It has a light-brown color, a 
buttery consistency, and a mild, sweetish taste. 

The method of manufacture is as follows : As soon as the curd of the regular 
cheese is removed from the whey, the whey is strained and is put in a kettle or 
large pan over the fire and the albuminous material which rises to the surface 



40 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

is skimmed off. Tlie whey is evaporated as rapidly as possible with constant 
and thorough stirring. When it has reached about one-fourth its original 
volume the albumin previously skimmed off is returned and stirred thoroughly 
to break up all possible lumps. When the whey has attained the consistency of 
thickened milk it is poured quickly into a wooden trough and stirred with a 
paddle until cool to prevent the formation of sugar crystals. This can then be 
molded into the desired form. In this country it is usually made into cylin- 
drical shapes and wrapped in tin foil. Prumost is a local name for this cheese. 

NESSEL. 

This is a soft-cured rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk. It is an 
English product and is made round and very thin. 

NEUFCHATEL. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made extensively in the Department of Seine- 
Inferieure, France, from cow's milk either whole or skimmed. Bondon, Mala- 
koff, Petit Carre, and Petit Suisse are essentially the same as Neufchatel, but 
have slightly different shapes. 

The milk, preferably fresh, is set at 85° F. with only so much rennet as is 
necessary to secure the desired coagulation in 24 hours in summer and from 
36 to 48 hours in winter. The curd is then inclosed in cheese cloth and drained 
for 12 hours, after which it is subjected to pressure for another period of 12 
hours. It is then thoroughly kneaded by hand or, in the larger factories, by 
means of a curd mill and pressed into thin cylinders about 2 inches in diameter 
and 3 inches high. The cheeses are removed soon from the molds, salted, and 
replaced. After draining for 24 hours they are transferred to the so-called dry- 
ing room, where they become covered with white and later with blue molds. 
They are then taken to the curing cellar, where the ripening process is con- 
tinued for 3 to 4 weeks. The appearance of red spots on the surface is taken 
as an indication that tlie ripening has progressed far enough. The cheeses are 
then wrapped in tin foil and marketed. 

An imitation of the Neufchatel cheese is made in the United States which is 
very probably as good as the French variety. Makers in this country have 
attempted to vary this cheese by the use of condiments. Pimento, or Pepper 
Cream, is a Neufchatel cheese in which 1 pound of red peppers is used for 
every 10 pounds of cheese. The peppers are ground very fine and thoroughly 
mixed with the cheese; the whole is then molded into forms and kept in a 
cold place. 

NEW MILK. 

This cheese is made in Holland. The process of manufacture resembles that 
of Gouda cheese. It is made only in limited quantities at the beginning of the 
summer season and is eaten fresh. 

NIEHEIM. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Westphalia and named from a city in that 
province. The sour milk is heated to a temperature of 100° to 120° F. The 
curd is collected in a cloth and allowed to stand for 24 hours, when it is worked 
until in a fine condition. The curd is made up into cakes which are put into a 
cellar and turned frequently for 5 to 8 days. It is then broken up, and salt and 
caraway seed, and sometimes beer or milk, are added. The cheese is covered 
lightly with straw and finally packed in casks with hops and allowed to ripen. 



VAKIETIES OF CHEESE. 41 

NOSTRALE. 

This name is applied locally to two kinds of rennet cheese made from cow's 
milk in the mountainous regions of northwestern Italy. The hard cheese, des- 
ignated Formaggio Duro, is made during the spring while the herds are still 
in the valleys, and the soft cheese, Formaggio Tenero, during the summer when 
they are pastured in the mountains. The cheese is said to be a very old variety 
and the methods of manufacture to have remained primitive. A cheese desig- 
nated Raschera, made in the region of Mondovi, is probably the same as 
Nostra le. 

OLIVET. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The manufacture of this 
variety originated south of Orleans, in the Department of Loiret, France. The 
industry is now carried on north of Orleans near Olivet, to which place the 
cheese doubtless owes its name. There are. three forms of this cheese, desig- 
nated white or summer cheese, blue or the ordinary half-ripened form, and 
ripened. In general the process of manufacture resembles that of Camembert. 
The ordinary form is made from either whole milk or partly skimmed milk. 
About 2 hours after the addition of rennet the cui'd is placed in a receptacle 
having holes in the bottom and sides and allowed to drain for 24 hours, when 
it is put into forms about 6 inches in diameter. The cheese is turned and 
salted the next day, and about 1 day later is taken to the first curing room, 
where it is placed on shelves covered with straw. This room is kept at a tem- 
perature of about 65° F. Here the cheese becomes red in a few days and later 
blue. The blue color is a sign of maturity, and its appearance requires from 10 
to 15 days in summer and 1 month in winter. The cheese is then ready for 
mai'keting. When properly cared for it may remain in good condition for sev- 
eral months. The form designated ripened is made in the same way until the 
blue color appears, when the cheese is put into the curing cellar, where ripening 
is carried to a much further extent. Ordinarily this requires from 15 to 30 
days, but the clieese is here sometimes covered with ashes, which are believed 
to hasten the ripening process. The form designated white or summer cheese 
is made from whole milk, to which cream is sometimes added. The curd Is 
obtained in the ordinary manner and pressed into molds, in which it is sold 
as fresh cheese, summer cheese, white cheese, or cream cheese. 

OLMUTZER QUARGEL. 

This is a hand cheese made extensively in the western part of Austria. It 
is li inches in diameter and one-third of an inch thick and contains caraway 
seed. It is made with 5 per cent of salt and after drying is put in salt whey 
for a time. It is then packed in kegs and ripened for 8 to 10 weeks. In all 
other respects the manufacture is identical with that of hand cheese. 

PAGLIA. 

This is a more or less successful imitation of Gorgonzola cheese, made in the 
Canton of Ticino, Switzerland. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches in 
thickness. The milk is set at a temperature of 100° F., the time allowed being 
about 15 minutes. The curd is broken up, stirred, and put into hoops. When 
sufficiently drained the cheese is taken to a cool cellar and placed on straw, 
where fermentation is usually very rapid and marked. The process is delayed 
to some extent by excessive salting, which is continued for about 1 month. 
The cheese is very soft in consistency and has a pleasant aromatic flavor. 



42 VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 

PAGO. 

This is a rennet cheese made from sheep's milk iu the island of Pago, in the 
Province of Dalmatia, Austria. It is put up in sizes weighing from one-half to 
8 pounds. 

PARMESAN. 

This name is in common use outside of Italy for the cheese made and known 
in that country for centuries as Grana, the term " grana " or " granona " referring 
to the granular appearance of the cheese when broken, as is necessary on account 
of the hardness of the cheese, which makes cutting practically impossible. 
There are two quite distinct kinds of this cheese, one made in Lombardy and the 
other in Emilia, the centers of production being separated by the River Po. 
Parma, situated in Emilia, has long been an important commercial center for 
both kinds, and to this fact the name Parmesan is due. The use of the term 
" Parmesan," however, is sometimes restricted to the cheese made in Lombardy, 
the term " Reggian " being used to designate that made in Emilia. Italian writers 
refer usually to the Lombardy cheese as Cacio or Formaggio Grana Lodigiano, 
Lodi being an important center of trade, and to the Emilian cheese as Grana 
Parmigiano or Reggiano. The Lodi cheese is larger and made from a poorer 
quality of milk than the Reggian. The latter is colored and brings a much 
higher price. The following description of the process of manufacture applies 
equally well to both kinds : 

The milk, which has been skimmed to a greater or less extent, is heated in 
copper kettles to a temperature varying, according to the acidity of the milk, 
from 90° to 100° F. The kettle is then removed from the fire, rennet added, 
and the kettle covered and allowed to stand for 20 minutes to 1 hour, when the 
curd is cut very fine and cooked, with stirring, to 115° to 125° F. for 15 to 45 
minutes. The curd is removed from the kettle by means of a cloth and after 
draining for a short time is put into hoops. These are about 10 inches high and 
18 inches or more in diameter and are lined with coarse cloth before filling. 
Pressure is then applied for 24 hours, the cheese being turned frequently and 
the cloths changed. The salting, which is begun in 1 to 3 days after remov- 
ing from the press, is continued for a considerable length of time, often 40 
days. The cheeses are then transferred to a cool, well-ventilated room, where 
they may be stored for years, the surface being rubbed with oil from time to 
time. The exterior of the cheese is dark green or black, due to coloring matter 
rubbed on the surface. A greenish color in the interior has been attributed to 
the contamination with copper from the vessels in which the milk is allowed to 
stand before skimming. 

The Lombardy cheese made from April to September is known locally as Sorte 
Maggenga and that from October to March as Sorte Vermenga. The Reggian 
cheese is made only iu summer. 

Parmesan cheese when well made may be broken and grated easily and may 
be kept for an indefinite number of years. It is grated and used largely for 
soups and with macaroni. A considerable quantity of this cheese is imported 
into this country and sells for a very high price. 

PECORINO. 

The Formaggio Pecorini are the sheep's-milk cheeses made in Italy and of 
which there are numerous more or less clearly defined kinds. The most com- 
mon cheese of this sort is the one designated Cacio Pecorino Romano, or 
merely Romano. This varies considerably in size and shape. The weight may 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 43 

range from 2 to 25 pounds. A cheese of ordinary size is about 10 inches in 
diameter and 6 inches in thickness. The interior is slightly greenish in color, 
somewhat granular, and devoid of eyes or holes. In making Romano cheese 
the milk is heated to 100° F. and coagulated by rennet in 1.5 minutes. The curd 
is cut, cooked to 120°, stirred, and put into forms and allowed to drain. Salt- 
ing is done both by immersion in brine and by rubbing salt on the surface. As 
much as 7 to 8 per cent of salt is usually incorporated in the course of one 
month. This process is sometimes facilitated by punching several* holes in the 
cheese. Ripening is usually done at a temperature of 60° to 70° and requires 8 
months or longer. 

The Pecorino Dolce is artificially colored with annatto and subjected to con- 
siderable pressure in the process of manufacture. 

Pecorino Tuscano is a smaller cheese than the Romano, measuring usually 6 
inches in diameter and 2 to 4 inches in thickness and weighing 2 to 5 pounds. 

Among the sheep's-milk cheeses bearing local names are the following : Au- 
cona, Cotrone, Iglesias, Leonessa, Puglia, and Viterbo. In the manufacture of 
Viterbo cheese the milk is curdled by means of a wild artichoke, Cynara 
scolymus. 

PFISTER. 

This cheese is classed in the Emmental group, though its method of manu- 
facture differs materially. It is made from fresh skimmed cow's milk. It takes 
its name from Pfister Huber, in Cham, Switzerland, who evidently was the first 
to manufacture it. 

The milk is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 30 minutes. 
The curd is cut coarse and allowed to stand for 15 minutes when the whey is 
dipped off. The curd is again stirred for 5 minutes, care being taken that the 
temperature does not fall below the setting point. The curd is again allowed 
to stand for 5 minutes, when it is taken from the kettle in a cloth and put in a 
hoop, where it is pressed for 24 hours, being turned occasionally and dry cloths 
substituted. The cheese is transferred from the press to the salt bath, where 
it remains for 3 days. It is then taken to a moist room having a temperature 
of 85°. Here it is placed on shelves and turned and salted occasionally. The 
cheese is ready for market at about 6 weeks of age. It is drum-shaped, like a 
characteristic Emmental, but not s-o large, weighing about 50 pounds. 

PHILADELPHIA CREAM. 

This is an ordinary cream cheese put up by a firm in New York State. It is 
3 by 2i by li inches in size and is wrapped in parchment paper and tin foil. 

PINEAPPLE. 

This cheese, which is said to have had its origin in Litchfield County, Conn., 
about 1845, is so named from the fruit of that name which the cheese is made to 
resemble in shape. It is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. The 
cheese is quite hard and is rather highly colored. The early process of manu- 
facture is the same as with Cheddar, except that it is cooked much harder. The 
curd is pressed in the desired shape in various sizes up to 6 pounds in weight. 
After pressing, the cheese is dipped for a few minutes in water at 120° F. and 
is then put in a net for 24 hours, which gives it the diamond-shaped corruga- 
tions on the surface. It requires several months to ripen, and during this 
time the surface is rubbed with oil, which makes it very smooth and hard. 



44 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

PONT L'fiV^QUE. 

This is a soft rennet clieese made from cow's milk. Three grades are recog- 
nized, depending upon the quality of the milk used. A Pont TEveque cheese 
is about 4i inches square and li inches thick. 

This cheese was made in the thirteenth century in the valley of Auge, from 
which it derived its earlier name Augelot, and by corruption Angelot. The 
principal seat of the industry at the present time is Pont I'Eveque and vicinity, 
in the Department of Calvados, France. The manufacture of this cheese is of 
considerable importance in the region designated. The milk used may be either 
whole milk with or without the addition of cream, a mixture of whole and 
skimmed milk, or milk entirely skimmed. 

Coloring matter and warm or hot water are usually added to the milk before 
setting with rennet, which is done at a temperature of about 95° F. After 
standing for 15 to 30 minHtes the curd is cut, removed to a draining board 
for a few minutes, and then put into square forms or hoops. The cheese is 
turned very frequently during the first half hour and five or six times more 
during the remainder of the first day. It is salted the second or third day 
and transferred to a well-ventilated room for several days. When sufficiently 
dried it is taken to the curing cellar. During drying and ripening the cheeses 
are turned every day and while in the cellar are washed frequently with salt 
water. Ripening requires usually from 3 to 6 weeks. 

PORT DU SALUT. 

This is a rennet cheese made from cow's milk. In many respects it is inter- 
mediate between the soft and hard varieties. The rind is firm and resistant 
but the interior is soft and homogenous, though it does not become semiliquid 
like the interior of Brie cheese. This variety of cheese originated about 1865 
in the Trappist Abbey, Port du Salut, situated about G miles from Laval, in the 
Department of Mayenne, France. While the process is to some extent kept a 
secret by the Trappists, very successful imitations are made outside of the 
monasteries in this region. 

The milk, either whole or partly skimmed and preferably slightly acid, is 
heated to 90° to 95° F. and sufficient rennet added in order to secure the de- 
sired firmness of the curd in about 30 minutes. Coloring matter is usually 
added to the milk. The curd is cut very fine and in a manner similar to that 
followed in making Emmental cheese. This requires about 20 minutes. A 
part of the whey may then be removed. The curd is then stirred and may be 
heated or cooked to a moderate degree. The final temperature reached in 
cooking varies from 100° to 105°, depending upon the acidity of the milk. The 
time required in stirring and heating is about 20 minutes. The curd is then 
allowed to settle and the whey removed. After being stirred vigorously for 
two to four minutes, the curd is put into molds which are of two sizes, the 
smaller about 7 inches in diameter and the larger about 10 inches. A disk 
is placed on the cheese and pressure applied by means of presses for 10 to 12 
hours, the cheese being turned and the cloths frequently changed during this 
time. The next day the hoops ai-e removed and the cheese salted. After drying 
for about 24 hours, it is transferred to the ripening cellar, where it remains 
from 5 to 6 weeks. In this place a temperature of about 55° and a relative 
humidity of 85° to 90° is preferred. During ripening the cheeses are turned 
very frequently and washed with salt water, the frequency depending some- 
what upon the rapidity with which molds develop. The cheese is often sold 
before the ripening process is entirely complete. 



TARIETIES OF CHEESE. 45 

POTATO. 

This cheese is made iu Thui iugia, in the central part of Germany. In the manu- 
facture of potato cheese, curd is made from sour cow's milk, or in some cases 
from renneted milk. Sometimes sheep's or goat's milk is used. The potatoes 
are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the potatoes is thoroughly mixed 
or kneaded with two or three parts of the curd. In the better cheese three 
parts of potatoes is mixed with two parts of curd. During the mixing salt is 
added, and sometimes caraway seed. The cheese is allowed to stand for 2 to 4 
days while a fermentation takes place. After this the curd is again thoroughly 
kneaded and placed in forms for a day. It is then dried and is sometimes 
covered with beer or cream. It is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen 
for 14 days. 

A variety of this cheese is made in the United States. It is probable, how- 
ever, that this is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a period as the European 
potato cheese. In all other essentials it appears to be identically the same. 

POTTED. 

This cheese is very likely of domestic origin. It is usually prepared from 
well-ripened Cheddar cheese by grinding it very fine and mixing with butter, 
condiments, spirits, etc. In the past this has been put up in small porcelain 
jars, but at the present time a portion of it is wrapped in waxed paper and 
either tin or lead foil. This ordinarily goes by the name of Club cheese. 

PRATTIGAU. 

This is made from skimmed cow's milk and is so named from the valley of 
Switzerland iu which it is made. Its manufacture is the same as that of Lim- 
burg. Cheeses weigh from 20 to 25 pounds. 

PRESTOST. 

Prestost is a product of Sweden, where it is often called Saalaud Pfarr. It 
is a rennet cheese made from fresh cow's milk and resembles Gouda. It was 
known in the eighteenth century. The milk is set at 90° F. and is allowed to 
become very firm, when it is cut coarse with a wooden knife and poured into 
a sieve, which allows the whey to drain off. The curd is then put into a cloth 
and kneaded. Whisky is mixed with the curd, which is then packed in a basket, 
and after some salt is sprinkled on the surface it is put into the cellar. The 
cloth inclosiug the cheese is changed daily for 3 days, after which the cheese is 
washed with whisky. A cheese is cylindrical in shape and weighs 5 to 30 
pounds. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This cheese is aboout 8 inches iu diameter and 1* inches thick, and very 
closely resembles Port du Salut. It is made in the monastery of Bricquebec in 
the Department of Manche, France. 

PROVOLE. 

This is one of the most esteemed of the several kinds of hard rennet cheese 
made in central and southern Italy from cow's milk, including also that of buf- 
faloes. The cheese is round or oval and weighs from 4 to 6 pounds. Smaller 



46 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

sizes weighing about 2 pounds are known as Provoloni. In many respects, in- 
cluding tlie cooking of the curd with hot water and the smoking of the cheese, 
Provole and Provoloni resemble Caciocavallo. Considerable amounts of this 
cheese are imported into the United States. 

PULTOST. 

Pultost, also called Knaost, is made usually from sour milk, but it may be 
made with rennet. It is a Norwegian product and is made in private dairies in 
the mountains of that country. The milk is placed in a kettle and if not sour 
enough to coagulate ou warming the acidity is increased by the addition of 
buttermilk. When sufficient acid has develojied the milk is warmed to 113° F. 
The curd is broken up with a scoop and stirred to keep it from matting together 
while it is being heated to 140°. It is then dipped and ground up fine. Butter- 
milk is added and the whole is thoroughly kneaded and put into troughs, where 
it is covered with a cloth. It is allowed to stand for three days with occasional 
stirring. 

QUESO DE CINCHO. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Venezuela and known also as Queso de 
Palma Metida. It is exported in the form of balls 8 to 16 inches in diameter 
and wrapped in palm leaves. 

QUESO DE HOJA. 

This Is a Porto Rican cheese made from fresh cow's milk. The curd is cut 
into blocks about 6 inches square and 2 inches thick. After part of the whey 
is drained off, which may require several hours, the pieces of curd are immersed 
in water or whey having a temperature of 150° F. This gives a tough layer 
to the block of curd, which is then removed to a table and pressed or stretched 
by the use of a broad wooden spoon or paddle. Salt is sprinkled on the surface 
and the piece of curd is folded and wrapped in a cloth and squeezed to force 
out the moisture. The finished product is about 6 inches in diameter, 1 to 2 
inches thick, and has slightly rouuded top and bottom surfaces. AVhen the 
cheese is cut it appears to be in layers like leaves upon one another, hence the 
name, signifying leaf cheese. 

QUESO DE MANO. 

This is a sour-milk cheese resembling a hand cheese, and is made in Vene- 
zuela. It is 6 to 7 inches in diameter. 

QUESO DE PRENSA. 

This is a Porto Rican product, and is a hard rennet cheese made from un- 
skimmed cow's milk. The milk is allowed to stand six hours without cooling, 
and rennet is then added. The curd is broken by hand or with a stick, and 
after part of the whey is separated the curd is transferred to a table and is 
broken into small pieces. It is then put in wooden frames, and salt is added 
either as the curd goes into the frame or by sprinkling on top. Light pressure 
is applied, either by hand or by means of a screw. After leaving the press the 
cheese is placed on racks. It may be eaten fresh or allowed to stand for 2 to 3 
months. The cheeses are 11 inches long, 5i inches wide, and 3 inches thick, 
and weigh about 5 pounds. The name signifies pressed cheese. 



VAEIETIES OF CHEESE. 47 

QUESO DE PUNA. 

This is a Porto Rican product, resembling very much ttie Cottage or Dutch 
cheese of the United States. The milk is set with rennet and the curd is thor- 
oughly mashed or kneaded by hand, salt being added at the same time. The 
curd is put in a hoop 5 inches in diameter and li inches deep, where it remains 
without pressure for 2 or 3 days, or until it will keep its form. The cheese is 
eaten fresh. 

RABACAL. 

This is a round, rather firm cheese made from the milk of sheep and goats in 
the vicinity of Coimbra, Portugal. A cheese is 4 to 5 inches in diameter and 1 
inch thick. 

RADEN. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in Mecklenburg. The 
cheeses are 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches thick, and weigh 32 pounds. 
The process of manufacture does not differ materially from that of Emmental. 

RANGIPORT- 

This cheese is in every way analogous to Port du Salut. It is about 6 inches 
in diameter and 2i inches thick and weighs about 2^ pounds. It is made in the 
Department of Seine-et-Oise, France. 

RAYON. 

This is a special type of Emmental cheese, made largely in the Canton of 
Fribourg, Switzerland, for exportation to Italy, though some is now manu- 
factured in Italy. It is made of partly skimmed milk, and the cooking is con- 
tinued to a point that insures a very dry, hard cheese, which develops no eyes. 
After curing it is shipped largely to Turin, where it is placed on edge on shelves 
in a dry, warm cave, and the fat leaks out, leaving the cheese exceedingly dry 
and hard, when it is used for grating. After the drying process the cheese is 
called Raper. 

REBBIOLA. 

Rebbiola, or Robiola, is a soft cheese, made principally in the Alpine districts 
of Italy. The process of manufacture is very simple. It is generally made 
from milk skimmed after 12 hours, but whole milk is sometimes used. The 
cheese is circular and weighs about 2 pounds. The ripening process is very 
rapid, requiring usually 12 to 15 days. The milk is set at a temperature of 
90° F., the time allowed being usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut 
fine and put into molds 8 inches in diameter and 6 inches high, the bottom 
being perforated. Five hours later the cheeses are removed from the molds 
and placed on a draining board covered with straw. After 2 or 3 days they 
are salted and then ripened. 

REBLOCHON. 

This is a soft French cheese, weighing 1 to 2 pounds. It is made from fresh 
whole milk, which is curdled with rennet at a temperature of 80° F. or above, 
the time allowed being about 30 minutes. The curd is cut to the size of peas, 
cooked to about 9.5°, and after the removal of the whey is put into molds about 
6 inches in diameter and 2 inches in height. A weight of about 5 pounds is 



48 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

placed upon each cheese, which is turned frequently and salted after about 

12 hours. In a moist room having a temperature of about 60° the desired 

degree of ripening is secured in 4 to 5 weeks. An imitation of this chfeese, 
made in Savoy, France, is known as Brizecon. 

REINDEER MILK. 

In Norway and Sweden the milk of the reindeer is sometimes used for 
cheesemaking. Rennet is added at 100° F., and the curd is cut and dipped 
into a large frame, where it is pressed lightly. The mass of curd is then cut 
into pieces 5 by 4 by 2i inches, which are salted on the surface and are allowed 
to ripen in a dry curing room. 

RIESENGEBIRGE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese, made from goat's milk in the mountains on the 
northern border of Bohemia. The milk is set at about 90° F. The curd is 
broken up and the whey dipped off, after which the curd is put in forms, where 
it remains in a warm place for 24 hours. It is then covered with salt and after 
drying for 3 to 4 days is placed in the curing cellar. From each 100 pounds 
of milk 18 pounds of cheese is secured. 

RINNEN. 

This is a sour-milk cheese which was known in the eighteenth century. It 
is made in Pomerania from milk sufficiently acid to cause a precipitation of the 
curd when it is warmed to about 90° F. The cheese derives its name from the 
wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. The curd is broken up and heated 
to expel the whey. The curd is kneaded by hand and caraway seed is added. 
It is molded into forms and pressed. Salt is then rubbed on the outside. The 
cheese is dried and put in a box to ripen. 

ROLL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, made in England from unskimmed cow's milk. 
It is cylindrical in shape, 8 inches high by 9 inches in diameter. A cheese 
weighs 20 pounds. 

ROLLOT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese, 2^ inches in diameter and 2 Inches thick, made 
in the Departments of Somme and Oise, France. 

ROMADOUR. 

Romadour, Remoudou, or Romatur cheese is a southern Bavarian product 
similar to Limburg. It is 4i by 2 by 2 inches in size and weighs 1 pound. It 
is said to be a little finer variety of cheese than Limburg and to sell for a 
slightly higher price. 

ROQUEFORT. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep. There are, how- 
ever, numerous imitations or varieties closely resembling Roquefort, such as 
Gex and Septmoncel. made from cow's milk. One of the most striking charac- 
teristics of this cheese is the mottled or marbled appearance of the interior, due 
to the development of a penicillium, which is the principal ripening agent. The 
manufacture of Roquefort cheese has been carried on in the southeastern part 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 49 

of France for at least two centuries. The industry is particularly important 
in the Department of Aveyron, in which is situated the village of Roquefort, 
from which the cheese derives its name. It is also made in Corsica. Imitations 
of Roquefort cheese are made in various countries. 

The evening's milk is heated to 140° to 150° F., cooled, and kept over night. 
After being skimmed it is mixed with the fresh morning's milk. The mixture 
is then set with rennet at a temperature of about 90°. In from 1 to 2 hours 
after the addition of rennet the curd is cut until the particles are about the size 
of walnuts. The whey which rises to the surface is dipped off and the curd is 
put into hoops which are about Si inches in diameter and 85 inches in height. 
The hoops are filled usually in three layers, a layer of moldy bread crumbs 
being interspersed between the first and second and second and third layers. 
The bread used for this purpose is prepared from wheat and barley flour, with 
the addition of whey and a little vinegar. It is thoroughly baked and kept in 
a moist place for 4 to 6 weeks, during which time it becomes permeated with 
a growth of the mold referred to. The crust is removed and the interior is 
crumbled very fine and sifted. The cheese is subjected to pressure, which is 
gradually increased, for 10 to 12 hours. It is turned usually 1 hour after 
putting into hoops. At the end of about 12 hours it is wrapped in cloth and 
taken to the first curing room. The cloths are frequently changed during the 
10 to 12 days the cheese remains in this place. 

Formerly the manufacture of the cheese up to this stage was carried on by 
the shepherds themselves, but in recent years centralized factories have been 
established and much of the milk is collected and there made into cheese. The 
cheese is then taken to the caves. These are for the most part natural caverns 
which exist in large numbers in the region of Roquefort. The temperature in 
these caves is 40° to 45°, and the air circulates very freely through them. 
Recently artificial caves have been constructed and used. When the cheeses 
reach the caves they are salted, which serves to check the growth of the mold 
on the surface. One or two days later they are rubbed vigorously with cloth 
and are afterwards subjected to thorough scraping with knives, a process for- 
merly done by hand but now much more satifactorily and economically by ma- 
chinery. The salting, scraping, or brushing seems to check the development 
of mold on the surface. In order to favor the growth of mold in the interior, 
the cheese is pierced by machinery with 60 to 100 small steel needles, which 
process permits the free access of air. The cheese may be sold after 30 to 40 
days or may remain in the caves as long as 5 months, depending upon the 
degree of ripening desired. The cheese loses during ripening by scraping and 
evaporation as much as 25 per cent of the original weight. The weight wheu 
ripened is about 4i to 5 pounds. 

^ SAANEN. 

This is a type of Emmental cheese made in Switzerland from cow's milk. It 
is sometimes known at Hartkase, Reibkase, 'and Walliskiise. First mentioned 
in the sixteenth century, it is still manufactured extensively at the present 
time and exported to a limited extent. It sells for a higher price than the 
regular Emmental. The process of manufacture is identical with that of 
Emmental, except that it is cooked much dryer, takes much longer to cure, and 
keeps longer. The cheese weighs from 10 to 20 pounds. The eyes are fewi 
and small. 

The ripening period is never less than 3 years and many require as long as 
9 years, the average being 6 years. The cheeses are kept to great ages. It 
being the custom to make a cheese at the birth of a child and eat it at the 
10415°— Bull. 146—11 4 



50 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

burial feast or even at the burial feast of a son of the child for whom it is 
made. One cheese is mentioned as being 200 years old and is considered a great 
honor to the household. Many cheeses are kept until they are 30 years old. 

SAGE. 

This cheese is made by the ordinary Cheddar process, and may be of any of 
the various shapes and sizes in which that cheese is pressed. As seen when 
cut it has a green mottled appearance. 

Formerly sage cheese was made by mixing green sage leaves with the curd 
before it was pressed. At the present time the flavor of sage is obtained by sage 
extract. To secure the green mottles, succulent green corn is cut fine and the 
juice is pressed out. A small portion of the milk is mixed with this juice and 
is set with rennet in a small vat while the bulk of the milk is set in the ordi- 
nary manner. After the curd is cut and is firm enough to be handled, the green 
curd from the small vat is mixed with the uncolored curd, and the process is 
continued as in the Cheddar process. This is a very popular variety of cheese 
with many consumers. 

SAINT BENOIT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Olivet, and is made in the Department 
of Loiret, France. Charcoal is added to the salt which is applied to the exterior 
of the cheese. Ripening requires from 12 to 15 days in summer and 18 to 20 
days in winter. A cheese is about 6 inches in diameter. 

SAINT CLAUDE. 

This is a small, square, goat's-milk cheese made in the region of Saint Claude, 
France. The milk is curdled with rennet and the curd placed in molds for 6 
to 8 hours. It is then salted and allowed to ripen, or may, however, be eaten 
when fresh. A cheese weighs from one-quarter to one-half pound. 

SAINT MARCELLIN. 

This is a goat's-milk cheese made in the Department of Is^re, France. 
Sheep's milk or even cow's milk may be mixed with the goat's milk. A cheese 
is about 3 inches in diameter and three-fourths of an inch thick and weighs 
about one-fourth pound. 

SAINT REMY. 

'This is a soft rennet cheese differing but little from Pont I'fiveque. It ia 
made in the Department of Haute- Saone, France. 

SALOIO. 

This is a kind of hand cheese made from skimmed cow's milk on farms in 
the region of Lisbon, Portugal. It has the form of a short cylinder, measures 
li to 2 inches in diameter, and weighs about 4 ounces. A similar cheese of 
about the same character is made in Thomar, about 50 miles north of Lisbon. 

SAP SAGO. 

This cheese is made from sour skimmed cow's milk, principally in Glarus, 
Switzerland. It is known also as Schabzieger, Glarnerkase, Grunerkase, and 
Krauterkase. It is claimed to have been made in the thirteenth century; the 
authentic history at least dates back to the fifteenth century. Sap Sago is a 



VAEIETIES OF CHEESE. 51 

small, hard, green cheese flavored with the leaves of a species of clover ; it is 
shaped like a truncated cone, 4 inches high, 3 inches in diameter at the base, 
and 2 inches at the top. This cheese is imported to some extent into the United 
States under the name of Sap Sago. 

The skimmed milk from which this cheese is made is not allowed to become 
sour enough to coagulate on heating, as it would make too hard a curd. The 
milk when it has reached the right acidity is heated to the boiling temperature 
while being stirred. Cold buttermilk is then added, as is also some whey having 
a high percentage of acidity. The matei'ial coagulating on the surface is 
skimmed off. The milk is then stirred while sufficient acid whey is added to 
precipitate the casein. When too little whey is used the curd is too soft, and 
when too much is used it is too hard. The curd is dipped with a skimmer and 
spread out to cool and then piit in boxes and allowed to drain and ferment. The 
box is kept at a temperature of about 60° F., and pressure is applied by 
weighting with stones. Ripening is allowed to continue for 3 to 6 weeks. If the 
temperature of the room is too high or there is not sufficient pressure, too rapid 
and strong fermentation results. This curd is used for making the finished 
product, but the cheese is seldom finished where the curd is made. The curd is 
ground in a mill, and every 100 pounds of cheese contains 5 pounds of salt and 
25 pounds of dried Melilotus cccrulea, an aromatic clover which is grown in 
the Canton of Schweiz for the purpose. The ground material is worked up 
into a dough and is forced into molds lined with linen cloth, and the name of 
the manufacturer is stamped on the large end. The mold is then emptied and 
refilled. The cheeses are dumped promiscuously into a large cask holding about 
200 pounds. A comparatively small quantity is shipped into this country. It 
sells at a low price and is usually grated. 

SASSENAGE. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, about 12 inches in diameter and 3 inches in 
height, made from cow's milk to which small quantities of goat's and sheep's 
milk are usually added. The cheese is almost identical with that of Gex and 
Septmoncel. It derives its name from the village of Sassenage, near Grenoble, 
in the Department of Isere, France. The milk used is usually a mixture of 
skimmed milk and whole milk. It is set with rennet, and the curd is cut and 
put into molds in the same manner as with the other varieties mentioned. The 
same is also true of the ripening process, which requires about 2 months. 

SCANNO. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep in the Apennine 
Mountains, in the Province of Abruzzo, Italy. It derives its name from the 
village of Scanno. The surface of the cheese is colored a deep black. The 
interior is bright yellow and has the consistency of butter. 

SCARMORZE. 

This is a small rennet cheese made in southern Italy from the milk of buffaloes. 

SCHAMSER. 

This cheese, which is also known as Rheinwald, is a rennet cheese made from 
skimmed cow's milk in the Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland. The cheeses 
weigh from 40 to 4.5 pounds and are 18 inches in diameter and 5 inches high. 



52 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

SCHLOSS. 

ScLlosskase, or Castle cheese, is a Limburg cheese made in the northern part 
of Austria. It is a soft-cured rennet cheese 4 by 2 by 2 inches in size. When 
ready for market It is wrapped in tin foil. 

SCHOTTENGSIED. 

This a whey cheese made by the peasants of the Alps for home use. 

SCHWARZENBERG. 

Tbis cheese is made in southern Bohemia and western Hungary. It is a 
rennet cheese made from partly skimmed cow's- milk. One part of skimmed 
milk is added to two parts of fresh milk. In about 1 hour after the addition 
of rennet the curd is broken up and thoroughly stirred. It is then dipped into 
wooden forms and light pressure applied for half a day. For 4 or 5 days fol- 
lowing the cheese is rubbed with salt and is then taken to the cellar, where 
it is washed daily with salt water until ripe, which requires 2 to 3 months. 

SENECTERRE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese originating at Saint Nectaire, in the Department 
of Puy-de-Dome, France. It is made out of whole milk, is cylindrical in shape, 
and weighs about 1* pounds. 

SEPTMONCEL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk, to which a small propor- 
tion of goat's milk is sometimes added. It resembles the Gex and Sassenage 
varieties very closely, and its process of manufacture is almost identical with 
that of Roquefort. It is also known as Jura blue cheese. It derives its name 
from the village of Septmoncel, near Saint Claude, in the Department of Jura, 
where the cheese is for the most part made. The cheese is made almost exclu- 
sively on isolated farms rather than in cooperative dairies, and the methods 
employed are somewhat rudimentary. 

The milk, which is usually partly skimmed, is set with rennet at a tempera- 
ture of about 85° F. The curd is cut and stirred after about IJ hours. After 
the curd has settled the whey is poured off. The stirring and draining are 
repeated sevei-al times until the curd is sufficiently firm to put into hoops. 
Moderate pressure is applied for a few hours. The cheese is salted at the end 
of 24 hours, and thereafter daily for several days. It is then transferred to 
the first curing room, which is kept cool and moist. After 3 to 4 weeks it has 
become covered with blue mold, when it is transferred to cellars or natural 
caves, where the ripening is completed in from 3 to 4 weeks longer. 

SERRA DA ESTRELLA. 

This is the most highly prized of the several kinds of cheeses made in 
Portugal. The name refers to the mountainous region in which the cheese is 
produced. It is made for the most part from the milk of sheep, but goat's milk 
is often added to this, or even used alone, and occasionally cow's milk is used. 

The method of making this cheese is comparatively simple. The milk is 
warmed in a kettle with little regard to the temperature obtained, and is 
coagulated in most cases by means of an extract of the flowers of a kind of 
thistle. The time required for curdling varies from 2 to 6 hours, depending 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 53 

upon the amount of tlie extract used. The curd is broken up with a ladle or 
by hand, squeezed to remove most of the whey, and put into circular forms. 
After draining until sufficientlj^ firm the cheeses are removed from the hoops 
and allowed to ripen for several weeks, during which time they are frequently 
washed with whey and salted on the surface. The cheeses vary much in size, 
the larger measuring about 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weigh- 
ing about 5 pounds. The cheese is rather soft and has a pleasant acid taste. 

A similar cheese made in another part of Portugal is known as Castello 
Branco. 

SERVIAN. 

In making Servian cheese the milk is warmed in a kettle over a fire or in a 
tub by immersing heated stones. After the rennet is added the milk is allowed 
to stand 1 hour. The curd is then lifted in a cloth and the whey allowed to 
drain. It is then placed in a wooden vessel, salted, and covered successively 
with whey for about 8 days and fresh milk for about 6 days. 

SILESIAN. 

A cheese known locally as Schlesischer Weichquarg is made from skimmed 
cow's milk, the process of manufacture resembling that of hand cheese. The 
milk is allowed to coagulate from souring and the curd is broken up and cooked 
at 100° F. for a short period. The curd is then put in a cloth sack and light 
pressure applied for 24 hours, after which it is kneaded by hand and salt and 
milk or cream are added. Flavoring substances such as onions or caraway seed 
are also sometimes added. The cheese is eaten fresh. 

Another cheese known as Schlesischer Sauermilchkiise is also made in much 
the same way as hand cheese. The cheeses are kept on shelves covered with 
straw, and are dried by the stove in winter and in a latticework house in 
summer. Drying is continued until the cheese becomes very hard. The cheese 
is ripened in a cellar, the process requiring 3 to 8 weeks, during which time it is 
washed every few da3's with warm water. 

SIRAZ. 

This is a Servian cheese made as a rule from whole milk. The milk is set 
at 104° F. and the curd is lifted from the whey with a cloth and pressed into 
cakes 4 to 6 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. These cakes are placed in the 
sun to dry until the fat commences to run, when they are rubbed several times 
with salt until a good crust is formed. The cakes are then packed in a wooden 
vessel and allowed to ripen. The cut surface shows a smooth appearance with- 
out holes. It is between a hard and a soft cheese. 

SLIPCOTE. 

This cheese is made in Rutlandshire, England. It is a soft unripened rennet 
cheese, made from cow's milk. The curd is dipped into small forms and no 
pi-essure is applied. After the cheese is removed from the form the surface dries 
and cracks and is easily slipped off, hence the name. It is an old cheese, having 
been well known in the middle of the eighteenth century. 

SPALEN. 

This is a type of Emmental cheese, and is sometimes known as Stringer. Its 
origin is unknown. It is made largely in the Canton of Unterwalden, Switzer- 
land, from sweet cow's milk, often partly skimmed. The name is derived from 



54 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

the vessel in which the cheeses are transported and in which five or six of them 
are paclied. This is a small cheese for an Emmeutal type. Each cheese weighs 
from 35 to 40 pounds. 

No thermometer is used in the manufacture, the temperature being judged by 
the feeling, and a very uneven product is the result. The process of making 
seems to vary much, the press consisting of a board with stones for weights, 
and the temperature of the cellar being poorly regulated. 

SPITZ. 

This is a small rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The cheese is cylindrical 
in shape, being 4 inches high and 1* inches in diameter. 

STEPPES. 

This name is applied to a Russian cheese made from whole milk. The milk 
after the addition of coloring matter is heated to about 90° F. and treated with 
sufficient rennet to secure coagulation in 40 to 45 minutes. The curd is cut into 
large cubes, the whey removed slowly, and the curd is still further broken up 
until the particles are uniformly about the size of peas. The curd is then heated 
gradually to 100° to 104°, the mass meanwhile being gently agitated. The 
stirring is kept up for some time after heating ceases until the curd becomes 
dry, when it is placed in molds 10 by 5^ by 7 inches. After the cheeses are re- 
moved from the molds they are turned frequently and 5 hours later are salted 
and transferred to the curing cellar, where a temperature of about 55° is main- 
tained. During ripening the cheeses are worked occasionally with salt water 
and turned frequently. 

STILTON. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, the best of which is made from cow's milk to 
which a portion of cream has been added. It was first made near the village of 
Stilton, Huntingdonshire, England, about the middle of the eighteenth century. 
It is now made principally in Leicestershire and west Rutlandshire, though its 
manufacture has extended to other parts of England. Its manufacture has been 
tried, though without success, in the United States. The cheese is about 7 
inches in diameter and 9 inches high and weighs 12 to 15 pounds. It has a very 
characteristic wrinkled or ridged skin or rind, which is likely caused by the dry- 
ing of molds and bacteria on the surface. When cut it shows blue or green por- 
tions of mold which give its characteristic piquant flavor. The price in this 
country is about 45 cents a pound wholesale. The cheese belongs to the same 
group as the Roquefort of France and the Gorgonzola of Italy. 

The morning's milk is put in a tin vat and the cream from the night's milk is 
added, and the whole is brought to a temperature of 80° F., when the rennet is 
added. It is claimed by some cheese makers that the curd should be softer 
when broken up or cut than the curd for Cheddar cheese, while by others it is 
believed that it should become very firm before it is disturbed, allowing 1 to 2 
hours for setting. When sufficiently firm the curd is dipped into cloths which 
are placed in tin strainers. After draining for 1 hour the cloths containing the 
curd are packed closely together in a large tub and allowed to remain for 12 
hours, when they are again tightened and packed for 18 hours. The curd is 
ground up coarse and salt is added, 1 pound to 60 pounds of curd. The curd is 
then put into tin hoops 8 inches in diameter and 10 inches deep. The cheeses 
remain in the hoops for 6 days, when they are bandaged for 12 days, or until 
they become firm, and are then placed in the curing room at 65°. Ripened Stil- 
ton cheese is of late often ground up and put into jars holding 1 to 2i pounds. 



VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 55 

STRACCHINO. 

This name is applied to several forms of Italian soft cheeses, the best known 
of which is Stracchino di Gorgonzola, which is described under the name of Gor- 
gonzola. A square form 6 to 8 inches on a side and 1^ inches thick is known as 
Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quadro, or Quartirola. This cheese is prepared 
similarly to Gorgonzola but is allowed to ripen for only about 2 months. It is 
not much exported. Stracchino Crescenza is a very soft and highly colored 
cheese usually eaten fresh. The form is similar to that of the Quartirola. It is 
usually marketed in about 8 days and can not be kept long. 

STYRIA. 

This is a cylindrical-shaped cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk in 
Styria, Austria. 

SWEET CURD. 

This is a name applied in the United States to a hard rennet cheese made 
from cow's milk. The name is used to distinguish it from the ordinary Cheddar 
or granular process, as in making Sweet Curd cheese the milk is set sweet, and 
the cutting and cooking are done rapidly without regard to the development 
of acid. In making this cheese the curd is cooked very firm and is salted and 
put to press immediately. In all other respects the process is the same as for 
Cheddar, and the cheese when ripened resembles that cheese very closely. 

SWISS. 

Swiss or Schweitzer cheese belongs to the Emmental group of cheeses and is 
made usually from half-skimmed cow's milk. Its manufacture is very old. It 
is supposed to have originated in the Alps, but is now made in most of the 
surrounding countries. It is made mostly in the winter season, when the price 
of butter is high, and only for local consumption. Its manufacture differs from 
real Emmental in that it is made from half-skimmed milk. The morning's milk 
is first heated and the skimmed evening's milk is added. The curd is cut 
coarser and is not cooked so firm as Emmental, which gives a softer and more 
quickly ripened cheese. 

The cheese made in the United States which goes by the name of Swiss or 
Domestic Swiss is in reality an imitation of the Emmental cheese, as it is made 
from whole milk. 

TAFI. 

This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Tucuman, in the Argentine 
Republic. 

TAMIE. 

This cheese is made by the Trappists in Savoy, France. The whole milk is 
heated to about 80° F. and coagulated with rennet in about 30 minutes. The 
curd is cut fine, cooked to about 100°, stirred, and put into molds 7 inches in 
diameter and 4 inches in height. The cheese is pressed for 6 to 8 hours, the 
cloths being changed frequently. After being salted the cheese is ripened for 
5 to 6 weeks. The method of manufacture is, to a large extent, a trade secret. 
The Tome de Beaumont is a more or less successful imitation. 



56 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

TEXEL. 

This is a slieep's-milk cheese made in Holland. It was known in the seven- 
teenth century. A cheese weighs 3 to 4 pounds and is colored green. 

THENAY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Vendome and is made 
in the region of Thenay in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. It is of 
comparatively recent origin, and its consumption is limited practically to the 
region in which it is produced. 

The evening's milk without being skimmed is mixed with the fresh morning's 
milk. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. and 
allowed to stand for 4 to 5 hours. The curd is then broken up and put into 
hoops about 5 inches in diameter and 4 inches in height. After draining for 
about 1 day it is turned and salted. The cheese is then kept for about 20 days 
in a well-ventilated room during which time it becomes covered with molds. It 
is then taken to the curing cellar for about 15 days. 

TIGNARD. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, resembling Gex and Sassenage, made from 
sheep's and goat's milk in the valley of the Tigne, in Savoy, France. 

TILSIT. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made mainly in East Prussia from unskimmed 
cow's milk. It is sometimes called Ragnit. The milk is set at 02° F. with suffi- 
cient rennet to coagulate in from 15 to 40 minutes. The curd is rather 
coarsely cut or broken and is cooked to 104° to 110°, being stirred meanwhile 
with a harp. The cui'd is cooked quite firm or until it can not be squeezed 
through between the fingers, which requires about 40 minutes. It is then 
dipped into cylindrical forms, where it remains 24 hours. The cheese is then 
covered thickly with salt for from 1 to 2 days, when it is put into a salt bath 
for 3 to 5 days and then transferred to the cellar. Here it is rubbed and 
washed with salt water frequently, and allowed to ripen for 4 to 6 months. 
The cheese is 6 to 12 inches in diameter, 3 to 4i inches in height, and weighs 
from 6 to 2S pounds. It resembles in general characteristics the Brick cheese 
of the United States. 

TOPPEN. 

This is a German sour-milk cheese made from skim milk and eaten while 
fresh. It is put up in small packages weighing about 1 ounce. 

TRAPPIST. 

This cheese originated with the Trappists in 1885 in the monastery of Maria- 
stern, near Banjaluka, in Bosnia. The fresh milk is heated to about 85° F. 
and rennet is added. After 1 to li hours the curd, without being cut or stirred, 
is put into hoops and pressed, after which it is salted and ripened. The 
growth of mold is entirely prevented by frequent washing, and thus the cheese 
ripens uniformly throughout. The ripening period of the smaller cheeses is 
5 to 6 weeks in summer, but the cheese is usually shipped at the end of 4 to 
5 weeks. The cheese is pale yellow in color and has a remarkably mild taste. 
Although this cheese is to be classed among the soft varieties, the water con- 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 57 

tent is often below 45 per cent. The ripening is also more characteristic of 
the hard cheeses. ^The smallest size of the cheese made in the monastery 
referred to has a diameter of 6 inches, a height of 2 inches, and weighs 2 to 
3 pounds. A larger size measures 9 inches in diameter, 2* inches in height, and 
weighs about 10 pounds. There is also a still larger size. The cheese is ex- 
ported to a large extent to Austria and Hungary, the most important centers 
of the trade in these regions being Gratz and Budapest. It is, however, found 
in all of the large cities of Austria, and the demand appears to be constantly in- 
creasing. This cheese is very probably the same as Port du Salut. 

A cheese which is very likely identical with the Trappist, or Port du Salut, 
is made in the Trappist monastery at Oka, Canada, and goes by the name of 
Oka cheese. 

TRAVNIK. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made usually from whole sheep's milk to which a 
small amount of goat's milk is added. Skimmed milk, however, is sometimes 
used. It is also known as Aruauteu and Vlasic. This cheese originated in 
Albania in the northwestern part of Turkey in Europe and has been made for 
at least a century. In the country of origin it was known at first by the name 
Arnautski Sir or Arnauten cheese. At the present time it is made in Bosnia 
and Herzegovina, but principally in the Vlasic Plain. The center of trade in 
this cheese is Travnik in Bosnia. 

The fresh warm milk is treated with sufficient rennet to secure copulation in 
one and one-fourth to two hours and is then allowed to stand for a short time 
until the coagulum contracts and the whey appears on the surface. The curd 
is then put into woolen sacks and drained for 7 to 8 hours, when it is pressed 
into flattened balls by hand. These are dried for a short time in the open air 
and then packed into wooden receptacles varying in diameter from 14 to 28 
inches, having a height of about 24 inches, and holding from 50 to 130 pounds of 
cheese. Each layer of cheese is salted and pressed so that no air spaces are 
left. When the receptacle is filled the whey usually shows at the surface, any 
excess being removed. Moderate pressure is applied to the cover placed upon 
the cheese. When fresh, the cheese made from whole sheep's milk has a soft 
consistency, a nearly white color, and a pleasant, mild taste. The cheese, how- 
ever, is usually allowed to ripen for two weeks to several months. No holes 
should develop in the cheese. 

TROUVILLE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the same locality as Pont I'Eveque and 
is of the same nature though superior in quality. Only fresh whole milk is 
used. The temperature of setting with rennet is 85° to 95° F. The growth of 
molds during ripening is prevented by frequent washing with salt water. 

TROYES. 

Two kinds of cheese are referred to by this name — one a washed cheese with a 
yellow rind, known as Ervy, and the other a cheese very closely resembling 
Camembert and known as Barberey. The industry is quite restricted. 

TUNA. 

Tuna cheese is a Mexican product which has been of local importance from 
an early date. It is really a confection rather than a cheese, being made from 
the fruit of the Tuna cardana, or sometimes the Tuna pacJiona. The product 



58 VAKIETIES OF CHEESE. 

is made by boiling and straining tbe Tuna pulp until a cheese-like consistency is 
reached, sometimes with the addition of nuts or flavors. It is of a chocolate 
color, pleasant to the taste, and wholesome. It is said to keep in good condition 
indefinitely. 

TWOROG. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Russia. The soured milk is kept in a 
warm place for 24 hours, when the whey is removed and the curd put into 
wooden forms and subjected to pressure. This cheese is made on a large scale 
by farmers and is often used in making a bread called " Notruschki." 

URI. 

This is a hard rennet cow's-milk cheese made in the Canton of Uri, Switzer- 
land. It has a diameter of 8 to 12 inches and is 8 inches high. It weighs 20 
to 40 pounds. 

VACHERIN. 

This name is applied to two quite different kinds of cheese. 

The form designated Yacherin a la Main is made in Switzerland and in Savoy, 
France. Whole cow's milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., 
and the curd is cut very fine and put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 5 
to 6 inches high. It is salted and ripened. The rind is firm and hard, but the 
interior is almost liquid in consistency. It is either spread on bread or eaten 
with a spoon. A ripened cheese weighs from 5 to 10 pounds. A cheese of this 
kind made in the same region is known locally as Tome de Montague. 

The form designated Vacherin Fondu is made in much the same manner as 
Emmental cheese. The ripened cheese is then melted and spices are added. 

VENDOME. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Thenay, and is made 
in the region of Vendome in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. 

The warm morning's milk is usually mixed with that of the previous evening, 
which secures ordinarily a setting temperature of 75° to 85° F., which is 
desired. The period of setting is 4 to 5 hours in summer and 5 to 6 hours in 
winter. The curd is then broken up and put into hoops about 5 inches in 
diameter and 4 inches in height. After draining for 24 hours the cheese is 
turned and salted, which process is twice repeated at intervals of 12 hours. 
AVhen sufficiently dried it is placed in the curing cellar, where it is often buried 
in ashes. This cheese is placed by some on a rank with Camembert. The 
principal market is Paris. 

VILLIERS. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the Department of Haute-Marne, France. 
It is a square cheese weighing about 1 pound. 

VOID. 

This is a soft rennet cheese rsembling Pont I'fivSque and Llmburg. It is 
made in the Department of Meuse, France. The milk is set with rennet at a 
high temperature, the whey is removed as rapidly as possible, and the cheeses 
during ripening are washed freqiiently with salt water. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 59 

VORARLBERG SOUR MILK. 

This, as the name indicates, is made from sour cow's milk. It is semicircular 
in shape and A-aries in size. It is essentially a hard cheese. 

The sweet milk is put in a kettle and raised to 77° F., and sour thickened milk 
is added and the mixture stirred and heated to 95°, at which temperature it 
coagulates. While this is being stirred with a curd scoop the temperature is 
raised to 105°. The curd is then dipped into forms, where it is turned a few 
times during 24 hours. Salt is rubbed on the surface and the cheese is placed 
iu a room having a temperature of 67°. The cheese is then placed in a cask 
and held for 3 days, and salt is sprinkled over the surface daily. The ripening 
is completed in a cellar. When ripe the cheese is greasy and has a very strong 
odor and flavor. 

WEISSLAK. 

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the Bavarian 
Algau, Germany. The cheese weighs about 2i pounds, and is rectangular in 
shape, 4* by 4 by 'Si inches. 

WENSLEYDALE. 

This cheese derives its name from the valley in Yorkshire, England, in which 
it is made. It is a rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. It is cylindrical 
in shape and weighs from 5 to 15 pounds. 

In the old method of manufacture the evening's milk is heated to 100° F., and 
the fresh morning's milk is added. It is set with sufficient rennet to coagu- 
late it in 35 minutes. The breaking or cutting process requires 35 minutes, 
after which the curd is allowed to stand for 45 minutes at 90°. The whey is 
then removed, and the curd is put in vats lined with cloth and light pressure 
is applied for 30 minutes. The curd is broken up and allowed to drain for 1 
hour. It is then milled and is pressed for 24 hours, when it is wrapped in 
cloth, and finally put in brine for 3 days. 

In the new method of manufacture the evening's milk and morning's milk 
are mixed in a copper kettle, heated to 95°, and enough rennet is added to 
coagulate it in 45 minutes. The curd is then broken up by hand or with a 
breaker. The whey is removed and the curd dipped into tin hoops where it 
drains for 3 hours. It is then turned and drained for another 3 hours. After 
pressing for 24 hours the cheese is salted by immersion in brine for 3 days. 

WEST FRIESIAN. 

This is a rennet cheese made from skimmed cow's milk. The milk is set in a 
copper kettle, 1 hour being allowed for coagulation. The curd is broken up and 
])laced in a wooden tub, where it is kneaded. The curd is allowed to stand for 
several hours and then salted. It is pressed for 3 hours, washed in hot water, 
wrapped in a fine cloth and again pressed for 12 hours. The cheese is eaten 
when 1 week old. 

WESTPHALIA SOUR MILK. 

This is a hand cheese made in Westphalia. Sour milk is stirred and heated 
to 100° F., and placed in a sack and the whey pressed out. The curd is then 
kneaded by hand and salted, butter and caraway seed or pepper being added. 
It is then molded by hand, dried for a few hours, and ripened in a cellar. 



60 VAKIETIES OF CHEESE. 

WHITE. 

Fromage Blanc, or White cheese, is a skim-milk cheese made in France during 
the summer months. The milk is set with rennet at about 75° F. The curd is 
usually molded into cylindrical forms. The cheese is consumed while fresh and 
may or may not be salted. 

WITHANIA. 

This is so called because made with rennet manufactured from withania 
berries. Cheese made with the rennet of these berries is said to have an agree- 
able flavor if ripened to the right degree, but it develops an acrid flavor with 
age. The texture is not so good as with animal rennet. This form of rennet is 
recommended for use in India, where the religion and prejudice of the people 
make the use of animal rennet impractical. 

ZIEGEL. 

This is a cheese made in Austria either from whole cow's milk or from whole 
milk to which 1.5 per cent of cream has been added. The cheese measures 3 by 
2 by 2i inches, and weighs about one-half pound. 

In making the whole-milk cheese the milk is warmed to 95° F. and suflScieut 
rennet is added to coagulate it in 30 minutes. The curd is broken up with a 
harp and cut loose from the bottom of the vessel, after which it is allowed to 
remain undisturbed for 30 minutes. At the end of this time the curd, which is 
again matted together, is cut into pieces and stirred gently for a considerable 
time, after which it is allowed to stand again for 15 minutes. The collected 
whey is then dipped off and the curd is dipped into forms which are 24 inches 
long, 5 inches high, and hold the curd of 7* to 8 gallons of milk. Before the 
form is filled a cheese cloth is placed in it which helps in turning the curd. The 
curd remains in the form 24 hours to drain and is then cut into measured sizes 
and placed in another form, where it is allowed to remain for 8 days, the curd 
being turned and the board on which the form rests being changed daily. Salt 
is then sprinkled on the cheese and for 1 month it is washed in salt water and 
rubbed with the hands evei'y day. It is ready for market in 8 weeks from the 
time of making. 

ZIGER. 

This is a cheese made from the whey obtained in the manufacture of other 
cheese. It consists principally of albumin, but where no effort is made to sepa- 
rate the fat from the whey the product may contain a relatively high proportion 
of fat. It is a cheap food product made in all the countries of central Europe. 
Among the many names applied to it are Albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, 
Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, and Ceracee. 

In the manufacture of this product an effort is sometimes made to remove the 
fat remaining in the whey, but in most cases the fat is allowed to remain. 
Where it is desired to skim the whey a small portion of very sour whey, pre- 
viously preparal, is added to the sweet whey and the whole is heated to 160° to 
175° F. for a few minutes, when the fat collects on the surface and can be 
skimmed off. Following this a greater portion of sour whey is added and the 
whey is then heated nearly to the boiling point, when the albumin is precipitated 
in a flocculent condition and rises to the surface of the whey. When the whey 
is not in normal condition the albumin may be precipitated in a powdery mass. 
This is often prevented by adding 3 to 5 per cent of buttermilk to the whey 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 61 

before the last heating. The casein of the buttermilk is precipitated, the 
albumin being carried with it. It is considered that this addition of casein 
injures the product. The albumin when skimmed from the whey Is salted and 
packed in a vessel and may be covered with whey. 

A so-called formed Ziger cheese is made by molding the half-dried albumin 
into squares which may be still further dried. Some of these have local names, 
such as the Hudelziger made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland. 

In Yorarlberg the albumin is skimmed from the whey, allowed to cool, placed 
in cheese cloth, and subjected to increasing pressure in an Emmeutal cheese 
press. After 24 hours the cheese is put into a salt bath to which sweet cider 
and vinegar are sometimes added. 

A mixture of Ziger and cream prepared in the Savoy is known as Gruau de 
Montague. An albumin cheese made from the whey of goat's-milk cheese in the 
Canton of Graubiinden, Switzerland, is known as Masoarponi. 



ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 



Variety. 



Authority.a 



Number of 
analyses. 



Water. 


Fat. 


Per ct. 


Per ct. 


30.22 


38.25 


41.11 


27.49 


48.39 


31.59 


32.97 


25.27 


f73. 12 


2.76 


161.04 


6.80 


/45.24 


28.16 


135.80 


37.40 


47.71 


24.08 


50.53 


29.42 


44.24 


20.52 


39.62 


30.10 


37.59 


30.05 


39.50 


24.40 


54.30 


23.00 


38.69 


28.86 


f48.80 
143.90 


22. 45 


28.93 


51.90 


24.80 


50.04 


27.50 


53.84 


29. .50 


46.06 


24.60 


55.69 


21.42 


53.50 


22. ,50 


(53.99 


24.83 


\45.25 


25.73 


41.50 


36.15 


60.20 


20.96 


/49. 20 
137. 70 


22.30 


32.60 


(43.10 


27.70 


^49.70 


27.00 


(52. 20 


26.20 


29.50 


38.55 


fl9. 76 
t22.09 


36.71 


35.90 


23.68 


25.49 


33.24 


30.09 


15.34 


19.00 


24.80 


30.40 


32.10 


47.10 


50.41 


20.55 


49.00 


21.65 


(47.90 
143.40 


21.90 


22.60 


45.24 


30.31 


59.42 


17.24 


53.80 


22.00 


49.87 


25.54 


48.78 


21.35 


51.94 


21.05 


52.98 


23.71 


50.90 


27.30 


(28.50 


34.10 


^35. 10 


28.30 


(39.00 


26.90 


43.48 


25.70 


44.80 


31.10 


40.70 


22.50 


40.90 


29.30 


39.92 


28.14 



Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 



Milk 




sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 


Total 
ash. 


etc. 




Per ct. 


Per ct. 


3.06 


7.60 


4.66 


6.07 


5.24 


6.40 


3.82 


5.87 


2.17 


2.11 


3.48 


4.83 




3.46 




2.36 


2.35 


2.87 


3.35 


3.14 


2.25 


2.71 




4.72 




3.48 




.70 




5.00 




4.20 


4.85 


3.96 


6.63 


1.50 




5.00 




4.12 




4.37 




3.57 




5.60 




4.00 




5.63 


4.93 


5.61 




4.70 


1.37 


1.53 


1.00 


4.40 


2.70 


5.80 


1.20 


7.30 


1.80 


6.80 


1.30 


6.00 


1.65 


1.46 




5.60 




5.80 




7.63 




10.50 




5.79 




3.40 




4.40 




3.52 


5.95 


4.68 




4.70 




3.80 




4.70 


4.70 


1.56 




4.40 




5.83 




3.46 


4.40 


4.71 




4.19 




3.14 


4.46 


4.56 


7.22 


4.40 


5.93 


3.95 


6.47 




7.50 




4.30 






4.80 




4.50 



Alemtejo.. 

Backstein . . 

Battelmatt 

BeUelay . . . 

Bondon 

Brick 

Brie 



Cantal. 



Hoffman. 
Pereira . . 



Fleischmann. 



Lindt. 



Eugling. 



Benecke 

Lindt 

Chattaway . 

Lindet 

Weems 



Balland . 
Blyth... 

Duclaux. 



von Klenze . 
Lindet 

Payen 



Brie- 
American 

Brinsen 

Burgimdy . . . 
Caciocavallo. 

Caerphilly . . . 
Cambridge. .. 
Camembert . . 



Arnold . . 
Johnson . 

Maior . . . 



Melikoff. 

Balland . 
Sartori . . 



Spica 

Chattaway . 
Chattaway . 

Arnold 

Balland 

Chattaway . 

Duclaux 

Kriiger 

Lindet 

Macoir 

Muter 

Payen 

RoUet 

Stutzer 



Balland . 



Duclaux. 



Lindet 

Patrick (2) . 



[Average... 

4'{ Maximum. 

iMinimimi. 



{Average... 
Maximum . 
Minimum. . 
1 



{Average... 
Maximum . 
Minimxim. 
1 



{Average . . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 
1 



f Average... 
4-j Maximum . 

iMlnimum.. 
1 



Per ct. 

20.87 
21.45 
24.33 
17.77 
19.84 
23. a5 
23.14 
24.44 
22.99 
24.48 
21.22 
25.70 
28.88 
9.40 
16.10 
23.80 
19.94 
19.04 
18.10 
18.34 
19.94 
17.16 
17.29 
18.00 
14.94 
18.48 

17.63 
15.94 
23.10 
25.20 
19.60 
14.30 
14.40 
28.84 
37.83 
36.06 
29.25 
35.09 
22.16 
37.20 
24.60 
25.49 
18.72 
21.80 
24.40 
19.75 
17.13 
17.10 
18.76 
21.07 
18.90 
19.12 
18.66 
28.38 
24.98 
24.22 
22.55 
24.10 
21.50 
20.50 
28.84 



02 



a See Sources of analytical data for details. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



63 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 



Cheddar- 
American. 



Cheddar- 
Canadian. 



Cheddar- 
English. 



Authority. 



Caldwell . 



Clark. 



Cooke 

Drew 

Goessmann . 

Patrick (1) . 
Snyder 



Van Slyke. 



Voelcker . 
Wallace . . 



Chattaway . 
Clark 



Shuttel worth. 



Blyth 

Chattaway . 



Griffiths. 
Hassall.. 
Jones 



Lloyd . 



Voelcker 

Von Klenze. 

Briinnich... 



Number of 
analyses. 



Water. 



[Average 

S'^Maximum. . 
IMinimum. . 

[Average 

79'J Maximum. . 
I Minimum. . 

{Average 
Maximum . 
Minimum. . 
13 Average 



201 Average 

f Average 

C'lMaximum. , 
[Minimum.. 

(Average . . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 

5 Average 

506 Average... 
[Average... 
156d.^ Maximum 
(Minimum . 
[Average . . 
9e< Maximum 
(Minimum. 

{Average . . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 

4 Average 

[Average... 

ISff-^ Maximum . 

[Minimum.. 



1 

{Average . . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 
5? Average. . 
6 Average ft . 
135 Averages?. 
135 Average*. 



2 Average 

{Average 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 

1 

(Average. . . 
31-^ Maximum . 

[Minimum.. 

[Average . . . 
13^ Maximum . 

[Minimum.. 



Per ct. 
34.04 
38.50 
28.11 
24.93 
40.04 
3.55 
31.97 
38.16 
26.64 
41.15 
35. 38 
37.56 
34.62 
31.05 
40.32 
45.41 
.35.83 
33.09 
38.36 
26.48 
32.71 
37.14 
36.84 
43.89 
32.69 
36.06 
41. 15 
32.23 
34.01 
38.10 
29.85 
32.39 
36.42 
41.65 
30.25 
30. 53 
31.70 
43. 82 

33.30 
34.07 
36.58 
32.28 
34.60 
32.53 
36.54 
33.51 

28.10 
3.5.00 
37.70 
33.00 
36.34 
30.10 
36.04 
35.52 
37.73 
32. 85 
35.16 
39.43 
30.32 
35.22 

1 [31. 62 
,\27. 67 



Fat. 



Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 



Per ct. 
35.56 
41.03 
31.19 
32.62 
52.63 
23.20 
27.72 
36.94 
19.58 
15. 39 
32.50 
27.70 
37. ,52 
35.54 
26.05 
37.32 
15. 77 
38.78 
49.56 
24.77 
35.25 
34.65 
33.83 
36.79 
30.00 
34.43 
45.36 
23.27 
36.81 
44.33 
27.22 
31.44 
36.95 
46.80 
21.77 
41.58 
36.18 
5.98 

30.60 
22.54 
25.67 
20.13 
35. 51 
36.06 
33.81 
32.97 

22.60 
29.02 
30.50 
25.60 
34.36 
36.54 
30.40 
30.33 
34.65 
24.00 
30.45 
41.58 
23.21 
27.91 



Per ct. 
26.87 
28.15 
25.57 
38.01 
55.27 
27.67 
34.62 
41.47 
28.73 
40.10 
23.91 
25.58 
20.19 
33.41 
29.89 
34.94 
22.13 
21.93 
31.76 
15.38 
26.81 
23.64 
23.72 
26.11 
20.80 
24.45 
28.72 
18.45 
25.69 
30.09 
21.53 
26.57 
21.15 
32.09 
14.11 
23.38 
27.19 
45.04 

27.60 
40.02 
43.52 
33.82 
23.18 
23.94 
23.96 
24.94 

45.60 
27.72 
29.00 
26.70 
22.98 
30.15 
28.98 
30.04 
35.10 
22.77 
27.80 
32.37 
23.28 
33.47 



Percl. 



Milk 

sugar, 

lactic 

acid, 

etc. 



1.99 
2.34 
1.65 



Total 
ash. 



Per ct. 
3.40 
4.05 
2.71 
4.42 
8.86 
2.41 
3.54 
4.22 
2.59 
3.33 
3.73 
3.96 
3.71 



Per ct. 



.61 

.76 
.61 



6.02 
1.36 
2.68 
.41 
2.45 
1.95 
3.12 



2.10 



3.16 

6.80 

.22 



35.17 24.59 4.09 1.44 

37.35 2a 24 4.04 



3.74 
5.14 
2.35 
4.09 
4.73 
2.43 



Salt in 
ash. 



c4.5: 
C5.61 
7.02 
3,12 
3.61 
5.29 
1.81 
C3.50 
4.59 
2.72 
4.57 
3.81 
4.61 
2.55 
2.06 
2.98 
2.06 

3.60 

3.45 

3.93 

3.14 

C6.70 

C7.48 

C5.69 

8.58 

4.10 
3.12 
4.30 
3.90 
4.22 
3.21 
4.58 
4.05 
4.60 
3.40 
3.42 
4.31 
2.06 
3.40 



1.49 



.70 
1.55 
.09 



Cheddar — 

Queensland ... 

a The 15 analyses are each the average of 6 monthly analyses. The green cheese was analyzed by 

6 Green cheese made at New York State Agricultural Experiment Station, 1892. 

c Sugar, ash, etc. 

d Green cheese made at numerous factories in New York, 1892 and 1893. 

e Age of cheese, seven weeks. 

/ Age of cheese, five months. 

g Green cheese 

h Age of cheese, 1 month. 

i Cured cheese. 



64 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 


Authority. 


Number of 
analyses. 


Water. 


Fat. 


Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 


Milk 

sugar, 

lactic 

acid, 

etc. 


Total 
ash. 


Salt in 
ash. 


- 


Arnold 

Balland 


1 


Per ct. 
24.69 
22.60 
44.59 
52.60 
36.10 
[37.80 

131. 60 
27.55 
31.10 

f30. 39 
135.92 
;36. 96 

132. 59 
38.20 

f38. 28 
138.23 
50.40 
(53.00 
\57.80 

(57.60 
\14.00 
30.34 
9.48 
36.49 
47.94 
27.69 
52.10 

49.60 
56.75 
45.99 
49.88 
38.78 
31.60 
41.44 
41.55 
38.46 
f29. 23 
129. 56 
;37. 90 
138.50 
51.66 
60.38 
41.70 
(32. 57 
m.62 
142.85 
30. 10 
41.88 
42.60 
33.20 
32.80 
f36. 10 
141. 41 
(48.69 
■^44.44 
[46. 80 
47.55 
55.34 
41.25 
37.77 
47.54 
30.49 
33.53 
35.18 
33.00 
37.44 
24.17 
47.30 
[61.00 
116. 66 
42.44 
51.58 
58.00 
44.70 
52.94 
33.80 
44.84 


Per ct. 

37.08 
39.50 
21.55 
30.67 
9.85 
31.30 
35.30 
36.00 
32.30 
25.48 
26.34 
29.34 
32.51 
30.25 
30.89 
29.12 
20.45 
21.50 
25.00 

39.30 
68.10 
67.32 
59.88 
56.08 
66.80 
43.76 
25.20 

34.00 
21.34 
13.41 
23.70 

9.34 
35.20 
27.56 

8.76 
31.86 
28.71 
27.43 
25.90 
24.29 
11.85 
24.40 

3.83 
32.19 
33.99 
26.73 
27.57 
24.05 
20.00 
28.00 
29.58 
27. 54 
25.06 
23.21 
25.37 
23.30 
24.42 
31.75 
19.73 
23.92 
34.70 

5.75 
30.29 
27.99 
30.50 
33.37 
28.64 
11.40 
19.20 
41.50 

3.36 
31.98 
40.47 
26.85 
29.75 
57.79 
36.73 


Per ct. 
33.36 
27.16 
29.25 
32.95 
24.44 
25.70 
26.50 
31.00 
30.90 
34.75 
25.99 
24.08 
26.06 
23.82 
23.93 
24.38 
17.41 
16.90 
13.00 

19.00 

20.10 
2.02 

18.40 
5.28 
8.77 
2.00 

13.49 

1L80 
18.91 
30.01 
34.00 
27.69 
24.50 
22.25 
44.09 
25.87 
33.89 
32.31 
27.32 
25.34 
26.82 
31.92 
24.00 
23.98 
23.48 
19.39 
32.81 
29.47 
23.90 
29.60 
28.41 
29.43 
25.63 
21.49 
22.69 
24.24 
22.18 
24.70 
18.95 
30.97 
37.65 
25.51 
29.99 
32.23 
30.34 
37.51 
30.44 
36.34 
16.37 
35.80 
42.12 
11.30 
19.94 

7.20 
11.80 

7.90 
15.48 


Per ct. 

"'6.' so' 

"2.'2i' 

"7.' 59' 
5.17 
4.53 
3.81 
3.70 
2.76 
4.80 

"5." 77' 

1.27 

2.50 

.22 

8.28 

"h'.io 

5.90 
2.65 
4.38 
4.24 

"'i'os' 

9.07 

"6." 35" 
6.34 
5.15 

"i'eo' 

"3.83' 
3.79 
2.92 

'"'.si' 

"ass' 

4.29 
7.09 
2.13 
2.58 


Per ct. 
4.85 
3.94 
4.61 
5.00 
3.90 
4.20 
4.40 
3.24 
3.70 
4.78 
4.16 
4.45 
4.31 
3.92 
3.20 
5.51 
6.94 
5.70 
4.10 

3.40 
L20 
.32 
6.47 

.82 
1.48 
.44 
.93 

3.00 
2.90 
3.63 
4.17 
3.33 
4.24 
4.51 
5.60 
3.81 
8.14 
8.49 
4.80 
2.80 
6.04 
7.33 
5.54 
4.67 
2.42 
5.62 
6.84 
4.60 
5.50 
6.60 
5.55 
6.93 
6.21 
3.02 
2.59 
3.68 
6 5.80 
9.46 
2.51 
6.85 
11.09 
4.60 
5.88 
4.60 
4.17 
4.95 
3.38 
4 96 
3.43 
6.10 
2.22 

.60 
1.42 

.25 
2.93 

.50 
2.95 


Per ct. 




1 






Blades 

Chattaway 

Grilfiths 

Lindet 


(Average 

emaximum ... 
[Minimum 








1 






1 


1.30 




Payen 


2 






Voelcker 

Griffiths 

Voelcker 

Balland 


2 


"i.'gi 




1 


1.59 




2 


.79 


Coulojniniers 


1 


2.55 




Lindet 


2 


4 80 


Cream- 
English 


Chattaway 

Hassall 


2 


3.60 




1 






Payen 


1 






Vieth 


[Average 

S^j Maximum ... 
[Minimum 




Cream- 
French Demi-Sel. . 


Balla nd 






Lindet 


1 . .. 


2 40 


Crescenza 


Duclaux 

Storch 


1 


1 34 


Danish Export 

Derbyshire 

Dorset 


[Average 

9-^ Maximimi . . . 
[Minimmn 


1.86 
2 55 


Sheldon 

Griffiths 

Vieth 


1.11 


1 






1 


2 93 


Dnnlnp. 


Jones 


1 




Edam 


Arnold 


2 






Balland 

Cribb 

Dahl 


2 






[Average 

4-^ Maximum... 
[Minimum 

3 








1 






von Klenze 

Lindet 


1 






1. 


3 20 




Mayer 


1 


3.30 




Patrick (2) 

Payen 


1 






2 




Edam — American 


Haecker 

VanSlyke 

Benecke 

Homig 

von Klenze ..... 

Lindt 


3a 






[Average — 

ISo^jMaximxmi.. 

[Minimum . . 

[Average 

7< Maximum.. . 

[Minimum 

1 


"3.86 
7.59 




1.19 




1 






[Average 

5-! Maximum.. . 

[Minimum 

1 




Engandine 


do 




Formaggini di Lecco.. 
Gammelost 


Cornalba 

Voelcker 


2 


i.96 


1 


3.00 


Gervais 


[Average 

4-^ Maximum . . . 

[Minimum 

1 






Konig . . 






Richmond 

Stutzer 


1 






1 


.76 



o Green cheese. 



6 Sugar, ash, etc. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



65 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 


Authority. 


Number of 
analyses. 


Water. 


Fat. 


Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 


Milk 
sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 


Total 
ash. 


Salt in 
ash. 


Gex 


Balland 


2 


Per ct. 
f31. 50 
132. 10 
49.22 
35.75 
21.40 
/33. 10 
137. 40 
34.10 
32.52 
35.81 
34.80 
40.88 
28.10 
20.80 


Per ct. 

28 85 
32.20 
2 96 
28.35 
25.40 
23.50 
28.10 
37.92 
29.94 
21.97 
28.02 
33.68 
22.70 
25.90 


Per a. 

29.96 
29.86 
41.53 
31.10 
48.10 
31.80 
28.30 
21.68 
31.70 
37.96 
27.96 
31.75 
24.50 
33.60 
17.10 
27.90 
7.62 
10.63 
4.43 
34.34 
27.70 
25.80 
23.14 
22.78 
25.67 
33. 80 
19.70 
26.75 
25.94 
26. 94 
25.16 
28.51 
20. 33 
24.17 
46.95 
25. 94 
34.22 
22.05 
24.40 
27.01 
37.43 
18.01 
19.25 
10.64 
33.03 
37. 80 
29.54 
26.18 
31.30 
28.70 
30.84 
28.90 
32.61 
29.95 
31.50 
33.75 
37.01 
27.72 
22.43 
19.38 
20.86 
30.62 
24.30 
30.09 
38.66 
25.16 
6.25 
8.73 
4.94 
28.10 
28.00 
24.25 
78.68 
69.74 


Perct. 

5.51 

.34 


Perct. 
4.18 
5.50 


Perct. 





Boggild 


1 






Bell 


1 


.31 

"i.'98" 

"4.'37' 
7.44 
1.22 
15.30 

"46." si" 

58.07 

39.04 

1.35 

"'.'2i' 

'"i.'62" 

2.00 

.91 

"3." 04" 
3.18 
3.40 
4.82 
7.40 
1.50 
1.94 

'"i."5o' 

C18.00 

c21. 40 

7.71 

2.86 

7.71 

'"i"6i" 

3.20 
.42 
2.50 
1.40 
2.84 
1.93 
.81 


4.49 
4.10 
5.00 
4.60 
4.32 
5.84 
4.25 
4.53 
5.70 
3.66 
4.40 
5.80 
4.74 
6.C6 
6.57 
5.14 
4.58 
5.30 
4.60 
4. £6 
4 46 
3.71 
4.10 
4 80 
4 08 
06.77 
010. 46 
3.82 
4 63 
3. 13 
4 32 
6.32 
6.52 
7.30 
4 28 
5.60 
5.41 
3.81 
2.55 
2.88 
3.12 
3.96 
4 70 
3.50 
4 68 
4 70 
3.70 
3.87 
3.50 
3.80 
3.67 
3.00 
4 79 
5.86 
5.C5 
5.25 
5.36 
10.00 
6.14 
3.95 
9.46 
12.70 
4 63 
4 50 
8.38 
2.61 
4 80 
6.00 
6.42 
9.46 
17.84 






Blyth 


1 






Chattaway 

Griffiths 

HassaU 


2 







1 






1 






1 






Voelcker 

Balland 


[Average 

13-^ Maximum... 

iMinimum 

1 


1.34 

2.04 

.85 






1 


64. 80 9. 20 


4 90 




Patrick (2) 

Werenskiold 

Bell 


1 


17.73 
20.90 
26.53 
15.53 
31.85 
f40. 30 
133.90 
/42.80 
138.69 
36.72 
26.81 
41.50 
[34. 41 
«2. 43 
[37.63 
37.30 
47.10 
29.82 
43.66 
21.90 
54.79 
60.17 
50.46 
38.80 
35.23 
42.58 
(46.03 
■^46.52 
146.59 
29.99 
33.10 
27.50 
40.61 
r28. 20 
135. 70 
36.00 
35.70 
f34. 57 
135. 74 
[40.00 
\32.05 
55.79 
[50. 19 
<^52. 49 
[52. 75 
37.50 
28.39 
36.89 
29.07 
32.48 
26.02 
31.55 
36. 03 
23.97 
f50. 50 
139. 10 
35.25 
1 8.59 
\10. 14 


46.64 
19.86 
32.68 
10.98 
27.88 
26.10 
26.70 
29.70 
34.07 
33.69 
35.29 
29.00 
37.52 
34. OS 
36.19 
34. 67 
39. 32 
29.00 
27. 05 
24.81 
9.02 
18.37 
1.64 
31.20 
29.40 
16.18 
31.13 
29.04 
28.29 
28.19 
33.40 
23.10 
26.59 
28.60 
31.80 
29.29 
28.00 
29.12 
30.64 
24 00 
28.40 
1.34 
1.64 
1.83 
1.11 
23.93 
32.00 
27.15 
24.74 
37. 48 
15.88 
55. 79 
03.82 
50. 16 
14.10 
25. 50 
31.24 
1.31 
1.45 




Goat-milk— Norwegian 


[Average 

8<^ Maximum... 

[Minimum 

1 


""2;ii 




Chattaway 

Duclaux 


2 






2 


"'"2.'2i 




1 






von Klenze 


1 






l:::: 


2.60 




Maggiora 

Musso 


3 


1.33 
.99 




[Average 

7-^ Maximum... 

(Minimum 

1 


.92 




Soxhlet 








1 






Cribb 


[Average 

11-! Maximum... 

[Minimum 

1 






Mayer . ... 


2. SO 




Patrick (2) 

Vieth 


1 






1 


3.68 




Haecker 

Balland 


36 




Gruyfere 


[Average 

9< Maximum... 

[Minimum 

1 




Benecke 

Chattaway 

Duclaux 


"'"i'io 




2 






1 


'"".'57 




1 


.40 






2 






Payen 


2 




Harz Hand 


Vieth 


1 


'4.16 




Vieth 


3 


"4.i2 


Herv^ 


Balland 

Hoflmarm 

Pereira 


1 


4.08 


ILha 


1 


1.66 




1 . 


1.50 


Incanestrato 


Spica 


[Average 

14-| Maximum ... 

[Minimum 

(Average 

10-J Maximum... 

[Minimum 

2 

16 Average 

2 


6.04 
8.12 


Kajmak 


Zega . . 


.78 
3.07 
7.36 


Kascaval 


Maior 


1.10 


Katschkawal j 


Zega 


3. 95 


Krutt 


Leutner 


8.01 
13.34 



a Abnormally high ash content was due to a gypsum 
coated, 
b Green cheese. 
o Caraway seed. 

10415°— Bull. 146—11—5 



preparation with which the cheese was 



66 



VABIETIES or CHEESE. 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 



Laguiole 

Leicestershire 

Leyden 

Limbnrg — American. 

Lirarot 

Mainz Hand 

Maroilles 

Mascarpone 

Mont-d'Or 

Monster 

Mysost 



Keufch&tel. 



NeufcMtel— American. 
Nogelost 



OUvet.... 
Olmiitz... 

Parmesan 



Pecorino ... 

Petit Suisse. 
Pineapple... 



Authority. 



Pont-l'EvSque . 



Pont-l'Eveque- 

American.. 

Port du Salut . 



Balland . . 
Griffiths. 

Voelcker. 

Mayer.. . 

Arnold. . 



Johnson 

Balland 

Lindet 

von Klenze. 

Lindet 

Payen 

Fascetti 

Balland 

Lindet 

Balland 

Lindet 



Dahl 

Voelcker 

Werenskiold . 



Balland . . . . 

Blyth 

von Klenze. 

Martin 



Payen . . . 

Arnold. . 
Johnson. 

Dahl.... 



Voelcker. 



Balland . . . . 

Homig 

Soxhlet 

Arnold 

Chattaway. 

Duclaux 

Lindet 



Manetti . 



Patrick (2) 

Payen 

Soxhlet .... 



Sartori. 

Lindet . 
Clark.. 



Johnson . 

Arnold. . 
Balland. 
Lindet... 



Arnold. . 
Balland . . 

Duclaux. 



Lindet. 
Rollet. 



Number of 



1. 



{Average 
Maximum . . . 
Minimum 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 



1. 



{Average 
Maximum . . 
Minimum... 

1 

r Average 

22 J Maximum .. 
iMinimum... 



I Pro- 

Water I Fat ■ **''^^' 
water.j I'at. ^mids, 

i etc. 



Per ct. 

34.50 

34.77 

(35. 21 

132. 89 

46.90 

35. 64 

48.60 

23.26 

42.12 

33.80 

52.20 

53.74 

40.30 

40.07 

f45. 88 

143. 38 

43.20 

58.70 

f45. 40 

137. 50 

52.40 

23. 57 

26.49 

18. 58 

24.21 

29.43 

38.01 

24.37 

i/50.80 

1 154. 80 

I 37.90 

,| 51.72 

1/56.08 

il57.83 

!/34.47 

136.58 

I 37.45 

57.25 



f43.87 

3 X45.39 

42.44 



1. 



[Average 

8< Maximum ... 

[Minimum 

1 

2 

1. 



[Average 

4^ Maximum .. 

[Minimum... 
1 



[Average. . . 
*| Maximum . 

[Minimum . . 

1 

1 

1 



28.40 
44.54 
52.49 
23.01 
32.50 
f30.09 
132.56 
34.00 
32.16 
36.11 
30.20 
35.39 
[27.56 
130.31 
34.57 
29.80 
32.90 
27.47 
54.60 
f 3.59 
{ 5.20 
24.07 
30.95 
11.62 
44.57 
46.40 
51.00 

26.02 
27.70 
(47.51 
148.02 
38. 10 
46.46 



Per ct. 

25.20 
28.00 
27.28 
29.28 
11.00 
29.82 
34.98 
21.29 
29.40 
21.95 
15. 00 

5.55 
33. 50 
28.73 
45.30 
49.50 
23.97 

9.70 
25. 90 
29. 83 
24.40 
16. 26 
20.98 

9.03 
20.80 

4.08 
10. 54 
.07 
25.15 
20.59 
41.30 
23.99 
23.34 
21.00 
41.91 
40.71 
.34.60 
22.30 

6.13 

7.36 
16.87 
15.89 

9.97 

3.36 
48.16 

3.37 

7.70 
12.49 
17.10 
26.04 
21.75 
23.00 
19.13 
23.42 
12.58 
19.72 
15.95 
21.68 
24.05 
30.51 
31.30 
29.96 
35.00 
54.56 
46.46 
38.12 
45.20 
33.26 
21.80 
25.00 
23.10 

50.80 
35.10 
25.93 
24.00 
24.50 
26.31 



Per ct. 
28.70 
27.86 
27.93 
29.06 
35.90 
28.53 
35. 05 
23.58 
23.00 
31.76 
25.90 
37.33 
20.20 
23.31 
8.14 
7.62 
20.10 
25.30 
16.86 
18.17 
15.50 
8.88 
10.78 
6.79 
9.06 
7.66 
9.19 
6.34 
17.60 
14.43 
23.10 
20.73 
16.67 
17.00 
13.03 
14.18 
24.04 
15.03 
32.72 
31.63 
31.29 
29.93 
33.12 
42.12 
13.98 
41.04 
38.02 
55.85 
43.60 
38.42 
42.27 
35.00 
43.54 
48.93 
38.33 
35.55 
44.08 
34.25 
35.15 
33.51 
35.59 
30.74 
7.30 
36.60 
43.28 
29.35 
34.45 
27.00 
30.36 
20.32 
17.80 

20.64 
31.16 
22.56 
24.29 
24.80 
23.66 



Per ct. 
6.15 
5.21 
5.54 
4.42 
1.00 



Milk 
sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 



Total 
ash. 



.38 
8.05 



8.84 



6.88 
9.75 



44.84 
53. 03 
30.75 
41.01 
53.24 
61. 38 
46.00 
5.12 
5.98 



1.42 
1.32 
6.96 
9.02 



2.94 
8.59 
10.36 
7.90 
6.47 
6.39 
9.85 
5.16 
.16 



2.49 
2.75 
2.16 



Perct. 
5.45 
4.16 
4.04 
4.35 
5.20 
5.98 
6.69 
4.82 
5.10 
4.44 
4.40 
3.38 
4.50 
5.93 
.68 
.50 
3.89 
4.30 
4.96 
4.75 
5.00 
4.76 
6.09 
3.28 
4.92 
.5.75 
6.38 
5.06 
1.33 
4.20 
3.40 
3.56 
2.49 
2.85 
3.63 
.51 
3.90 
2.48 
3.79 
3.41 
3.17 
4.84 
5.13 
2.22 
4.30 
10.89 
1.79 
8.14 
6.20 
5.45 
5.07 
5.20 
6.29 
7.18 
5.20 
4.82 
6.72 
7.09 
6.23 
6.24 
6.84 
5.31 
.60 
5.25 
5.1 
5.69 
6.18 
5.10 
3.97 
l.( 
4.00 

2.54 
4.00 
4.00 
3.69 
5.30 
3.67 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



67 



Variety. 



Authority. 



Potted- 
American Club 

House 

Imperial 

Royal Paragon..., 

Rabacal 

Rebbiola 

Reblochon 

Reindeer milk 

Romadour 



Roquefort . 



Ricotta. 



Saloio 

Sap Sago. 



Savoy 

Septmoncel 

Serra da Estrella. 



Servian. 
Spalen.. 
Stilton.- 



Swiss — American . 



Swiss — Russian . 



Swiss — Swedish 

Tessel 

oFrom 



Weems 

Weems 

Weems 

Hoffmann. 

Cornalba . , 



Lindet 

Werenskiold. 

Hornig 

von Klenze . . 

Lindet 

Patrick (2) . . 
Vieth 



Arnold . 



Balland 

Bell 

Chattaway. . 
Hornig 1 1. 



Number of 
analyses. 



Johnson, 
von Klenze. 

Lindet 

Muter 

Patrick (2) . 

Payen 



Sieber.. . 
Sartori.. 



Sartori . 



Hoffmann. . 

Pereira 

Arnold 

Beneckc 

von Klenze. 

Balland 

Balland 



Biittner . 



Hoffmann . 
Pereira 



2.. 
1". 

36. 



Water. 



Benecke 

Chattaway . 



Griffiths... 

Hassall 

Muter 

Patrick (2) . 

Voelcker. . . 
Arnold 



Haecker. 

Johnson. 



Kalantarow . 



Dahl. 



Mayer . 
cow's milk. 



{Average . . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 
1 

{Average . . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 
(Average . . . 
14{Maximum . 
iMinimum.. 
1 



Ze. 



Fat. 



Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 



(Average 

5'^Maximum 

[Minimum 



Per ct. 

38.98 

30.63 

32.85 

10.45 

(46. 56 

\Ab. 36 

53.20 

27.70 

(56. 00 

\51. 21 

43.21 

eo. 40 

55.16 

44. 55 

28. 35 

28.87 

22.47 

28.90 

32.26 

29.60 

36. 93 

39.28 

38.94 

36.90 

21.56 

34.37 

'26. 53 

[34. 55 

(23.54 

136. 93 

68.47 

43. 80 

42.48 

43.29 

76. 25 

154. 37 

145. 81 

13.30 

47.02 

38.17 

(52. 40 

149.70 

28.20 

43.58 

47.98 

35. 22 

31.87 

39.34 

50. 07 

24.38 

53.99 

68.84 

42.10 

28.14 

[19. 40 

21.20 

|25.00 

31.22 

31.37 

28.60 

32.97 

f32. 18 

(20. 27 

38.51 

41. 43 

35.91 

38.40 

33.79 

32.74 

35.44 

29.80 

(29.34 

J 38. 64 

136.02 

54.40 



1 

b From sheep's milk. 



Per ct. 
34.01 
33.10 
31.52 
37.36 

25. 55 

30. 56 
20.50 
43.11 
17.05 

9.16 
10.56 
11.90 
14.76 
16.16 
29.98 
33.70 
34.02 
38.30 
34.38 
30.30 
31. 23 
29.53 
34.14 
29.50 
35.96 
34.54 
32.31 
30.14 
40.13 
31.23 
5.22 
36. 46 
31.64 
31.90 
1.78 
25. 84 
27.80 
15. 52 
6. 00 
12.27 
5.90 
6.45 
31.25 
27. 69 
34.56 
19.70 
40.05 
27.93 
37.93 
19.30 
19.30 
32.20 
7.77 
33. 69 
42.20 
45.80 
34.60 
37.24 
36.58 
30.70 
39.03 
37.36 
43.98 
24.84 
29.93 
33.21 
32.40 
33.25 
32.26 
37.20 
28.97 
36.44 
29.13 
32.05 
18.30 



Milk 
sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 



Per ct. 
21.13 
26.88 
27.74 
35.00 
19.90 
20.21 
19.30 
23.79 
18.76 
33. CO 
30.18 

19. 00 
26. 05 
32.72 
32.84 
28.82 
34.99 
25.16 
27.16 
28.30 
25.79 
22. 62 
21.92 
20.50 
32.24 
24.40 
31. 69 

20. 52 
27.00 
25. 79 
18.72 

8.66 
13.61 
12.94 
11.37 
13.63 
15.16 
57.59 
37.06 
45.73 
28.84 
27.32 
32.06 
22.02 
24.03 
20.40 
22.18 
23.48 
32.10 
17.83 
21.32 
32.37 
14. 60 
30.78 
21.10 
26.30 
28.40 
24.28 
27.66 
35.60 
23.19 
24.31 
33.55 
32.02 
22.13 
24.82 
22.88 
26.12 
24.85 
28.81 
20.57 
23.20 
23.21 
24.76 
20.10 



2.97 
.81 
.02 



Total 
ash. 



3.00 
1.32 



3.97 

10.36 

11.49 

10.75 

5.28 

2.96 

5.97 



9.38 

12.53 

3.99 

2.69 

6.13 

1.55 

2.24 

3.93 

6.78 

.78 

2.63 

5.12 

.85 

2.55 



3.40 



2.90 
3.32 
3.24 
1.77 
4.43 
6.90 
.57 
6.11 
4.36 
4.59 
1.40 



Salttn 



Perct. 
1.49 
4.22 
4.13 
8.26 
7.90 
3.73 
3.70 
2.43 
0.78 
6.01 
6.10 
5.00 
5.47 
6..')7 
8.82 
8.66 
8.24 
4.64 
4.88 
6.70 
4.78 
6.80 
5.00 
7.00 
10.24 
6.16 
4.45 
5.07 
6.27 
4.78 
3.62 
.72 
.78 
1.02 
5.32 
3.20 
5.26 
13. 57 
10.10 
3.83 
3.48 
4.00 
4.50 
4.00 
4.35 
3.51 
3.66 
5.79 
8.96 
3.23 
3.30 
4.81 
2.40 
7.38 
2.60 
2.90 
4.10 
3.86 
4.39 
4.02 
3.24 
3.93 
2.20 
4.70 
3.34 
3.06 
3.48 
5.07 
5.78 
7.44 
4.36 
4.78 
4.39 
2.39 
5.80 



Per a. 



2.42 
5.80 
1.22 
1.80 



5.80 



5.27 



2.49 
2.04 
3.17 



7.58 



.80 
2.57 
5.26 

.94 
1.86 
3.18 

.03 
4.4C 



.20 



1.85 
2.67 
4.78 
1.45 



c Green cheese. 



68 



VAKIETIES OF CHEESE. 
Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety, 



Thenay 

Topfen 

Trappist.. 

Troyes 

Vacherin.. 

Vendome.. 

Viterbo 

Vorarlberg 



Warwickshire 

Wensleydaie. . 
WUtsMre 



Ziger. 



Authority. 



Number of 



Blin 

Konig 

Rubner.., 
Adametz. 

Lindet 

Benecke.. 
Lindt 



FaUot. 



Sartori. 



Eugling. 



von Klenze . 



Voelcker. 



Chattaway . 
Griffiths.... 
Jones 



Voelcker. 



Eugling 

von Klenze . 



[Average 

6-^ Maximum.. 

I Minimum... 
1 

[Average 

9< Maximum. 



Per ct. 
30.14 

"72. 44 
60.27 
45.90 
58.70 
54.02 
45.87 
48.09 
56.33 
29.63 
28.50 
42.99 
53. 85 



[Minimum 32.92 

/5 0. 61 
\5X58 
31.97 
^33. 61 
[33,53 
28. 30 
37.23 
36.34 
(34. 44 
1 39. 22 
(40. 07 
(68. 51 
^4.74 
1 68. 47 
31.00 



Fat. 



Pro- 

teids, 
amids, „„ 

pto I 



Per ct. 

15.00 

6.22 

7.33 

26. 10 

18. 60 

23.74 

27.21 

20.90 

30.61 

10.80 

30.93 

17.02 

31.99 

2.82 

4.48 

4.50 

29.08 

30.04 

30.89 

33.30 

27.82 

28.00 

28.71 

19.26 

25.55 

3.15 

4.33 

5.22 

3.48 



Milk 



sugar, 
lactic 

acid, 

etc. 



Per ct. 

18.12 
16.91 
24.84 
23.30 
14.60 
18.98 
25.29 
27.97 
45.52 
17.74 
34.19 
31.19 
40.11 
25.65 
36.42 
42.37 
27.43 
29.70 
28.19 
27.20 
26.52 
31.12 
29.00 
34.22 
26.81 
22.13 
14.99 
18.72 
64. 62 



Perci. 



3.07 
3.54 



3.79 
7.21 
1.81 



7.16 
1.95 
2.84 



3.88 



3.60 
2.28 
2.24 
3.97 
3.93 
3.97 



Total 
ash. 



Perd. 
6.10 
1.36 
4.02 
4.00 
4.80 
3.08 
1.63 
4.43 
5.58 
3.10 
6.38 
4.94 
6.89 
3.79 
2.49 
2.49 
4.36 
5.60 
4.55 
3.70 
4.55 
4.41 
4.25 
5.02 
5.33 
2.31 
2.02 
3.62 
.90 



Salt in 
ash. 



Per ct. 
4.80 



3.70 
1.77 

'2.'79 
3.68 
2.08 
5.03 



.72 
2.78 
1.12 



1.03 
.60 
1.41 



SOURCES OF ANALYTICAL DATA.^ 

1. Adametz, L. 

Ueber die Herstellung unci Zusammensetzung des bosnischen Trappis- 
tenkases. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 21, No. 19, p. 310-313. Bremen, May 
7, 1892. 

2. Arnold, L. B, 

Cheese and cheese making. American Dairymen's Association, 14th 

Annual Report, for the year ending Jan. 15, 1879. Utica, N. Y., 1879. 

See p. 145. 
Translated abstract. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 8, No. 32, p. 468-470, Aug. 

6 ; No. 33, p. 484, Aug. 13 ; No. 34, p. 500-502, Aug. 20. Bremen, 1879. 

See p. 502. 
3. Balland, a. 

Les aliments. Paris, 1907. See vol. 2, p. 237-248. 

4. Bell, James. 

The analysis and adulteration of foods. 2 parts. Illus. 20 cm. Lon- 
don, 1881. See also citations 15, 49, 53, 54. 

5. Benecke, F., and Schulze, E. 

Untersuchungen liber den Emmenthaler KJise und (iber einige andere 
schweizerische Kiisesorten. Landwirtschaftliche Jahrbiicher, vol. IG, 
p. 317-400. Berlin, 1887. See p. 338, 373. 

6. Blades, Charles M. 

Cheshire cheese. The Analyst, vol. 19, p. 131-133. London, June, 1894. 

7. Blin, Henrl 

L'industrie fromagere en Loir-et-Cher. Le fromage de Thenay. Jour- 
nal d' Agriculture Pratique, ann. 61, vol. 2, No. 49, p. 876-879. Paris, 
Dec. 9, 1897. 

8. Blytii, Alexander Wynter, and Blyth, Meredith Wynter. 

Foods; their composition and analysis. 5th ed. London, 1903. See 
p. 306. 

9. BOGGILD, B. 

Eine Analyse der Gislev-kJise. Ugeskrift for Landmilnd, II, No. 20, 1890. 
Abstract. Biedermann's Centralblatt fiir Agrikulturchemie, Jahrg. 20, 
p. 287. Leipzig, 1891. 

10. Beunnich, J. C. 

Analyses of cheese and butter manufactured at the Queensland Agricul- 
tural College, Gatton. Queensland Agricultural Journal, vol. 9, No. 
4, p. 424^28. Brisbane, Oct., 1901. 

11. [BiJTTNER, C] 

See citation 58. 

12. [Caldwell. 

Alpwirthschaftliche Monatsblatter, p. 158. 1877.] See citation 39, p. 325. 



1 References inclosed in brackets have not been consulted in the original. 

69 



70 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.n 

13. Chattawat, Wm. ; Pearmain, T. H. ; and Moor, C. G. 

On the composition of clieese. The Analyst, vol. 10, p. 145-147. London, 
July, 1894. 

14. The composition of some English cheeses. The Analyst, vol. 20, No. 

231, p. 132-134. London, June, 1S95. 

15. Clark, R. D. 

Report on Cheese. Nevr York State Dairy Commissioner, 3i'd Annual Re- 
port for 1886. Albany, 1887. See p. 50, 62. 

16. Composition of Canadian cheese. Ibid., 5th Annual Report for the year 

1888. Albany, 1889. See p. 422. 

17. Ibid., 7th Annual Report for the year 1890. Albany. 1891. See p. 300. 

18. Cooke, W. W., and Hills, J. L. 

Making cheese from different qualities of milk. Vermont Agricultural 
Experiment Station, 5th Annual Report [for] 1891. Burlington, 1892. 
See p. 90. 

19. Cobnalba. G. 

I formaggini di lecco. L' Industria Lattiera e Zootecnica, vol. 5, No. 5, p. 
35. Reggio-Emilia, March 1. 1907. 

20. I formaggi molli di lusso. II coltivatore, vol. 53, No. 49. p. 713-717. Casale 

Monferrato, Dec. 8, 1907. 

21. Cbibb, Cecil II. 

Note on Dutch cheese. The Analyst, vol. 31, No. 301, p. 105-111. Lon- 
don, Apr., 1906. 

22. Dahl. 

Ueber Norwegens Natur, Rindviehhaltung und Molkerehvirthschaft. 
Milchzeitung, Jahrg. 1, No. IG, p. 1S5-191, May 15; No, 18, p. 205-212, 
June, 15. Danzig. 1872. See p. 210. 

23. Drew, Charles W. 

Report upon cheese. Minnesota State Dairy and Food Commissioner, 
3rd Biennial Report. Minneapolis, 1890. See p. 235. 

24. DucLAUx, Pierke Emile. 

Le lait. 2d ed. Paris, 1894. See p. 259-311. 

25. EuGLiNG, Wm., and Klenze, von. 

Versuche auf dem gebiete der alpenwirthschaft. Mik-h-zeitmig, Jahrg. 7. 

No. 11, p. 141-143, :Mar. 13; No. 12, p. 157-100, Mar. 20, 1S7S; Jahrg. 

9, No. 40, p. 597-599, Oct. 6, 1880. Bremen. 1878-80. 
[Bericht iiber die Thiitigkeit der Versuchsstatzon des Landes vorarlberg. 

1875-0. Bregeuz. p. 12.] See citation 38, p. 331. 

26. [Fallot. 

Premier Congres International Hygiene Alimentaire, 4th sec, Paris, 1905. 
Analyses made at Laboratory, Loir-et-Cher, Blois, France.] 

27. Fascetti, G. 

Preparazione e composizione del formaggio lombardo alia crema denomi- 
nato " Mascarpone." Annuario della Reale Stazione Sperimentale di 
Caseificio di Lodi, ann. 1902. Lodi, 1903. See p. 71. 

28. [Fleis6hmann, W. 

Bericht iiber die Wirksamkeit der milchwirtschaftlichen Versuchs-stationen 
und des Molkarei— Institutes Raden, 1880, p. 84 ; 1884, p. 30 ; Rostock, 
1881, 1885.] See citation 39, p. 334. 

29. GOESMANN, C. A. 

Massachusetts State Agricultural Exi)eriment Station, Amherst, 6th An- 
nual Report, 1888. Boston, 1889, See p. 239. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 71 

30. Griffiths, A. B. 

Analyses de quelques fromages d'Angleterre. Bulletin de la Soci4t§ 
Chimique de Paris, ser. 3, vol. 7, p. 282-283. Paris. 1892. 

31. llAECKER, T. L. 

Manufacture of sweet curd cheese. Minnesota Agricultural Experiment 
Station. Bulletin No. 35, p. 104-128. St. Anthony Park, Oct., 1894. 
See p. 115, 122, 127. 

32. Hassal, Arthur Hill. 

Food : its adulterations and the methods for their detection. London, 
1876. See p. 450. 

33. Hoffmann, M. 

Die milchwirtschaftlichen Verhilltnisse Portugals. Milch Zeitung., Jahrg. 
27, No. 13, p. 197-199. Bremen, Mar. 26, 1898. 

34. [HORNIG. 

Beitriige zur Geschichte, Teehnik und Statistik der Ktiserei. Wien, 1869, 
p. 40. J See citation 39, pp. 327, 329, 330, 335, 341. 

35. Johnson, S. W. 

Analyses of some American cheese. Connecticut Agricultural Experiment 
Station, Annual Report., 1892. New Haven, 1893. See p. 156. 

36. [Jones.] 

Cited from White, Henry. Report on the exhibition of cheese at Chester 
in July, 1858. Journal of the Royal Agricultural Society, vol. 19, p. 
420. London, 1858. 

37. [Kalantarow, A. von. 

Ueber die chemsche Zusammensetzung einiger russischer KJise. Journal 
Russian Physico-chemical Society, vol. 14, section 1, pp. 155, 156. St. 
Petersburg, 1882. Cited from Berichte der deutschen chemischen 
gesellschaft, Jahrg. 15, Jan.-June, p. 1220. Berlin, 1882. 

38. Klenze, H. L. von. 

Versuche iiber die Verdaulichkeit verschiedener Kasesorten. Milch 
Zeitung, Jahrg. 14, No. 24, p. 369-373. Bremen, June 10, 1885. 

39. KoENiG, Franz Joseph. 

Chemie der menschlicheu Nahrungs- und Genussmittel. 4. aufll. Berlin, 
1903. See vol. 1, 321, 335. 

40. KRiJGER, R. 

Beitrage zur Herstelluug kamambertartiger Weichkiise. Molkerei Zeitung, 
Jahrg. 6, No. 33, p. 402. Hildesheim, Aug. 13, 1892. [In this paper 
Kriiger refers to previous papers of his in the same periodical.] 

41. Leutner, W. 

Krutt, ein von den Kirgisen bereiteter Kase. Pharmaceutische Zeitschrift 
fur Russland, Jahrg. 24, No. 1, pp. 8-9. St. Petersburg, Jan. 6, 1885. 
Cited also in Chemikev Zeitung, Jahrg. 9, No. 14, p. 254. Cothen, Feb. 
15, 1885. 

42. Lindet, Ammann, and Brugi^re. 

Sur la composition des principaux fromages consommes en France. Revue 
Generale du Lait, Ann. 5, No. 18. pp. 416-418. Lierre, June 30, 1906. 

43. [LiNDT, O., and MiIller, C. 

Analysen verschiedener schweizerischer Kiisesorteu. General-bericht 
iiber die erste schweizerische Milchproduktenausstellung in Bern, 1. 
bis. 11. Sept. 1867, von R. Schatzman.] 

Abstract Jahre^bericht iiber die Fortschritte auf dem Gesammtgebiete der 
Agrikultur-Chemie, Jahrg. 10, pp. 354-455. Berlin, 1868. See also cita- 
tion 39, pp. 324. 327, 331, 333. 



72 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

44. liLOTD, F. J. 

Observations on Cliecldar clieese-making. Report, 1893. Journal of the 
Bath and West and Southern Counties Society, ser. 4, vol. 4, 1893-4, 
pp. 131-175. London, 1894. See p. 161. 

45. Macoib, Louis. 

L'industrie fromagere en Franche-Comte. Bulletin de I'Agriculture, vol. 
20, pp. 376-441. Bruxelles, 1904. See p. 390. 

46. Maggioba, Aenaldo. 

TJeber die Zusammensetzung des iiberreifen Kases. Archiv fiir Hygiene, 
vol. 14, No. 2, pp. 210-224. Miinchen und Leipzig, 1892. See p. 220. 

47. [Maioe, G. 

Die tzigaja-race, ihre Eigenschaften und ihre vpirtschaftliche Nutsbarkeit. 
Inaug.-diss. Halle, 1887.] Cited from Thiele, Paul. Einiges iiber 
Schafkasefabrikation in Siebenbiirgen. Milch. Zeitung, Jahrg. 26, No. 
46, pp. 727-729. Bremen, Nov. 3, 1897. 

48. Manetti, L., and Musso, Giovanni. 

gulla composlzione dei caci di grana. Le Stazioni Sperimentali Agrarie 
Italiani, vol. 5, fasc. 3, pp. 174-201. Torino, 1876. See p. 187. 

49. Ueber die Zusammensetzung und die Reife des Parmesankiises. Die 

Landwirtschnftlichen Versuchs-Stationen, vol. 21, pp. 211-229. Berlin 
1878. See p. 215. 

50. [Mabtin, Ed. W., and Moore, R. W.] 

See citation 14, p. 45. 

51. Mayee, Adolf. 

Analysen von holliindischen Kasesorten. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 16, No. 5, 
p. 87. Bremen, Feb. 2, 1887. 

52. Mblikoff, p. G., and Rosenblatt, M. 

Le brynsa, fromage russe de lait de brebis. Journal d'Agriculture 
Pratique, ann. 71, n. s., vol. 14, No. 52, p. 814-815. Paris, Dec. 26, 1907. 
58. Mttsso, Giovanni, and Menozzi, A. 

gulla composlzione degli stracchini. Le Stazioni Sperimentali Agrarie 
Italiani, 1877, vol. 6, fasc. 4, p. 201-206. Torino, 1878. 

54. [ilUTEE, J.] 

See citation 14, p. 44, 50, 52. 

55. Patrick, G. E. 

(1) Changes during cheese ripening. Iowa Agricultural Experiment Sta- 
tion, Bulletin 24, p. 970. Ames, 1894. 

(2) Unpublished data. Analyses made in U. S. Department of Agricul- 
ture, 1901. Samples collected by H. E. Alvord in Europe. 

56. Pa yen, a. 

Composition de plusieurs substances alimentaires. Journal de Pharmacie, 
et de Chimie, ser. 3, vol. 16, p. 279. Paris, 1849. 

57. Precis th^orique et pratique des substances alimentaires. 4th ed., 1865. 

See p. 190-213. 

58. Pebbiba, a. Caedoso, and Masts aum, Hugo. 

Technisches und Aualytisches iiber die Kaseindustrie in Portugal. Chem- 
iker Zeitung, Jahrg. 28, No. 84, p. 998-1000. Cotheu, Oct. 19, 1904. 

59. Richmond, Henry Droop. 

Dairy chemistry ; a practical handbook for dairy chemists and others 
having control of dairies. London, 1S99. See p. 303. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 73 

60. [ROLLET.] 

See citation 45, p. 390, 413. 

61. RtTBNER, M. 

Analyse des sog. Topfens. Zeitschrift fiir Biologic, vol. 15, p. 496. Miin- 
chen, 1879. 

62. Sartori, Giuseppe. 

Sulla composizione della ricotta pecorina. Le Stazioni Sperimentali 
Agrarie Italiani, vol. IS, fasc. 4, aprile, p. 434^36. Asti, May 6, 1890. 

63. Analisi del caciocavallo. Nota preliminare. Ibid., vol. 22, fasc. 4, aprile, 

p. 337-340. Asti, April, 1892. 

64. Die chemie des Schafkases. Milcli Zeituug, Jahrg., 19, No. 51, p. 1001- 

1004. Bremen, Dec. 17, 1890. 

65. [Sheldon, John Prince. 

Prize essay on cheese making, etc. Newcastle-under-Lyme, 1876.] See 
citation 39, p. 326. 

66. Shuttleworth, A. E. 

The composition of milk, cheese, and w^hey in relation to one another. 
Ontario Agricultural College. Guelph. Ontario, Bulletin 96. Toronto, 
Aug. 16, 1894. 

67. Annual report of the professor of chemistry. Ontario Agricultural Col- 

lege and Experiment Farm, 2lst Annual Report, 1895. Toronto, 1S9G. 
See p. 25. 

68. SlEBEB, Nadina. 

Ueber die angebliche Umwaudlung des Eiweisses in Fett heim Reifen 
des Roquefort-Kiises. Journal fiir Praktische Chemie, n. f., vol. 21, p. 
203-221. Leipzig, 1880. 

69. Snyder, Harry. 

The composition of dairy products. Minnesota Agricultural Experiment 
Station, Bulletin 27, p. 50-62. St. Anthony Park, Feb., 1893. See p. 60. 

70. [SOXHLET, F. 

Erster Bericht iiber Arbeiten der K. K. Landwirthschaftlich-Versuchs- 
stationen, Wien, vol. 29, [for] 1870-78, Wien, 1878.] See citation 39, p. 
322, 335. 
Tl. Spica, Matteo, and Blasi, Luigi de. 

Ricerche chimiche sui formaggi siciliani. Le Stazioni Sperimentali Agra- 
rie Italiani, vol. 23, fasc. 2, agosto, p. 132-153. Asti, Sept. 25, 1892. 
See p. 148. 

72. [Storch, V. 

Forschungen auf dem Gebiete der Vlehhaltung, 1879, p. 166-232.1 See 
citation 39, p. 333. 

73. Stutzer, a. 

Die chemische Untersuchungen der Kilse. Zeitschrift fiir Analytische 
Chemie, Jahrg. 35, p. 493-502. Wiesbaden, 1896. See p. 502. 

74. Van Slyke, Lucius Lincoln. 

Investigation of cheese. New York Agricultural Experiment Station, 

n. s., Bulletin 37. Geneva, Nov., 1S9L 
T5. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during May. Ibid., Bulletin 

43, June, 1892. 
76. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during June, ibid., Bulletin 

45, Aug., 1892. 



74 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

77. Experiments In the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Bulletin 46, Sept. ; 

Bulletin 47, Nov., 1892. 

78. Summary of results of experiments made in the manufacture of cheese 

during the season of 1892. Ibid., Bulletin 50, Jan., 1893. 

79. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid.. Bulletin 54, May ; Bul- 

letin 5G, May; Bulletin GO, Oct.; Bulletin 61, Nov.; Bulletin 62, Dec, 
1893 ; Bulletin 65, Jan., 1894. 

80. VlETP., P. 

Mitteilungen aus dem Laboratorium der Aylesbury Dairy Company in 
London. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 16, No. 7, p. 120-121. Bremen. Feb. 
16, 1887. 

81. Mitteilungen aus dem Laboratorium der Aylesbury Dairy Company in 

London. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 21, No. 12, p. 191-192. Bremen, March 
19, 1892. 

82. Bericht liber die Thiitigkeit des milchwirtschaftlichen Instituts in Ha-~ 

meln im Jahre 1897. Hannover, 1898. See p. 33. 

83. VOELCKNEB, AUGUSTUS. 

On the composition of cheese and on practical mistakes in cheese making. 
Journal Royal Agricultural Society, vol. 22. p. 29-69. London, 1861. 

84. Cheese experiments. Ibid., vol. 23, p. 170-191. London, 1862. 

85. On a peculiar kind of Swedish whey cheese, and on a Norwegian goats'- 

milk cheese. Ibid., ser. 2, vol. 6, p. 333-336. London, 1870. 

86. Amerikanischer Kiise aus magerer Milch mit Zusatz von Schmalz oder 

Oleomargarin. Milch Zeitung, Jahrg. 11, No. 28, p. 438-439. Bremen, 
July 12, 1882. 

87. Wallace, Henby C. 

Investigations in cheese making. Iowa Agricultural Experiment Station, 
Bulletin 21, p. 735-767. Ames, 1893. See p. 756. 

88. Weems, J. B. 

Unpublished data. Analyses made at Iowa Agricultural College, 1896. 
Samples furnished by J. H. Monrad. 

89. Webenskiold, Frederik H. 

Aarsberetning angaaeude de offentlige foranstaltninger til landbrugets 
fremme i aaret 1885. Kristiania, 1886. See p. 78. 

90. Ibid., [for] 1893. Kristiania, 1894. See p. 87. 

91. Wilson, N. E. 

Cheese and cheese manufacture. Nevada Agricultural Experiment Sta- 
tion, Bulletin 18, Reno, Nov., 1892. 

92. Zega, a. 

Kajmak. Chemiker Zeitung, Jahrg. 21, No. 6, p. 41. Cothen, Jan. 20, 
1897. 

93. Zega, A., and Bajic, M. 

Katschkawalj. Chemiker Zeitung, Jahrg. 19, No. 85, p. 1920. Cx)then, 
Oct. 23, 1895. 

94. Zega, A., and Panics, L. 

Serbischer Kase. Chemiker Zeitung, Jahrg. 22, No. 18, p. 158. Cothen, 
March 2, 1898. 



INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 



Abertam: Description, 7. 

Albumin. See Ziger. 

Alemtejo: Description. 7; analysis, 62. 

Algau. See Limburg. 

Algau Emmental. See Emmental. 

Alpin: Description, 7. 

Altenburg: Description, 7. 

Alt Kuhkase. See Hand. 

Altsohl. See Brinsen. 

Ambert: Description, 7. 

Ancien Imperial: Description, 7. 

Ancona. See Pecorino. 

Appenzell: Description, 7. 

Arnauten. See Travnik. 

Auvergne (or Auvergne Bleu). See Cantal. 

Backstein {see also Limburg): Description, S: 

analysis, 62. 
Banbury: Description, 8. 
Barberey: Description, 8. 
Battlemat: Description, 8: analysis, 62. 
Bauden: Description. 8. 
Belgian Cooked: Description, 8. 
Bellelay: Description, 8; analysis, 62. 
Bellunese. Sec Emmental. 
Bergquara: Description, 9. 
Bergues. See Leyden. 
Berliner Kuhkase. See Hand. 
Bleu {see also Gex; Sassenage; Septmoncel): De- 

.scription, 9. 
Blue Dorset. See Dorset. 
Bondon (see also Neufcliatel): Analysis, 62. 
Boudanne: Description, 9. 
Boulette. See Maroilles. 
Box (firm): Description, 9. 
Box (soft): Description, 10. 
Bra: Description, 10. 
Brand: Description, 10. 
Brick: Description, 10; analysis, 62. 
Brickbat: Description, 11. 
Brie: Description, 11; analj-sis. 62. 
Briuscn: Description, 12; analysis, 62. 
--Briol. See Limburg. 
Brizecon. Sec Ileblochou. 
Broccio {see also Ziger): Description, 12. 
Brocotte. See Ziger. 
Burgundy: Description, 12; analysis, 62. 
Buttermilk: Description, 12. 
Cacio. See Parmesan. 
Cacio Pecorino Romano. See Pecorino. 
Cacio Romano. See Chivari. 
Caciocavello: Description, 12; analysis, 62. 
Caerphilly: Description, 13; analysis, 62. 
Cambridge: Description, 13; analysis, 62. 
Camembert: Description, 13; analysis, 62. 
Cancoillotte. See Fromage Fort. 



Canquillote (see also Fromage Fort): Descrip- 
tion 14. 
Cantal: Description, 14; analysis, 62. 
Carinthian. See Limbm-g. 
Carr6 Affing. See Ancien Imperial. 
Castello Branco. See Serra da Estrella. 
Ceracee. See Ziger. 
Ciiampolgon: Description, 14. 
Chaource: Description, 14. 
Chaschol de Chaschosis: Description, 15. 
Cheddar: Description l.'i; analysis, 63. 
Cheshire: Description, 16; analysis, 64. 
Cheshire-Stilton: Description, 17. 
Chevret. See Goat's Milk. 
Chevrotin. See Goat's Milk. 
Chivari: Description, 17. 
CIgrimbert. See Alpin. 
Club. See Potted. 
Colmar. See Miinster. 
Commission: Description, 17. 
Compifegne. See Camembert. 
Contentin. See Camembert. 
Cooked: Description, 17. 
Cotherstone: Description, 17; analysis, 64. 
Cotrone. See Pecorino. 
Cottage: Description, 17. 
Coulommiers: Description, 18; analysis, 64. 
Cream: Description, 18; analysis, 64. 
Cream, French Demi-sel: Analysis, 64. 
Crescenza: Analysis, 64. 
Creuse: Description, 18. 
Cristalinna: Description, 18. 
Daisies. See Cheddar. 
Damen: Description. 18. 
Danish Export: Description, 19; analysis, 64. 
Dauphin. See Maroilles. 
Delft. See Leyden. 
Demi-sel. See Cream. 
Derbyshire: Description, 19; analysis, 64. 
X)evonshire Cream: Description, 19. 
Domestic Swiss. See Emmental. 
Dorset: Description, 19; analysis, 64. 
Dotter: Description, 20. 
Dresdener Bierkiise. Sec Hand. 
Dry: Description, 20. 
Duel: Description, 20. 
Dunlop: Description, 20; analysis, 64. 
Dutch. See Cottage. 
Edam: Description, 20; analysis, 64. 
Elbing: Description, 21. 
Emmental: Description, 21; analysis, 64. 
Emmersdorf. See Limburg. 
Engadine: Description, 23; analysis, 64. 
English Daii-y: Description, 23. 
Epoisse: Description, 23. 



76 



INDEX. 



Ervy (see also Troyes): Description, 23. 
Farm: Description, 23. 
Ferme. See Farm. 
Filled: Description. 23. 
Flats. See Cheddar. 
Flower: Description, 24. 
Fondue. See Fromage Fort. 
Fontine d'Aosta. See Emmental. 
Formagelle: Description, 24. 
Formaggie di Capra. See Goat's Milk. 
Formaggini: Description, 24. 
Formaggini di Leceo: Analysis, G4. 
Fonnaggio Dolce. See Emmental. 
Formaggio Duro. See Nostrale. 
Formaggie Grana Lodigiano. See Parmesan. 
Formaggio Tenero. See Nostrale. 
Fourme. See Cantal. 
Fourtne d'Ambert. See Ambert. 
Freisa. See Cooked. 
Fresco. See Stracchino. 
Fromagfere. See Canquillote; Fromage Fort. 
Fromage h la Crfeme. See Cream. 
Fromage 5, la Pie. See Farm. 
Fromage Blanc. See White. 
Fromage Bleu. See Bleu. 
Fromage Double Creme. See Cream. 
Fromage de Boite. See Box (soft). 
Fromage de Bourgogne. See Burgundy. 
Fromage de Foin. See Hay. 
Fromage de Troyes. Sec Barberey. 
Fromage Fort: Description, 24. 
Fromage Mou. See Maquee. 
Fromage Persill6. See Gex; Bleu. 
Gaiskasli. See Goat's Milk. 
Gammelost: Description, 24; analysis, C4. 
Gautrais: Description, 24. 
Gavot: Description, 24. 
Geheimrath: Description, 25. 
G^rome (see also Miinster): Description, 25. 
Gervais (see also Cream): Description, 25; analy- 
sis, 64. 
Gex: Description, 25; analysis, 65. 
Gislev: Description, 20; analysis, 05. 
Glamerkiise. See Sap Sago. 
Gloire des Montagues. See Damen. 
Glumse: Description, 26. 
Gloucester (see also Derbyshire): Analysis, 65. 
Goat's Milk: Description, 2ij; analysis, 65. 
Gorgonzola: Description, 26; analysis, 65. 
Gouda: Description, 27; analysis, 65. 
Goumay: Description, 27. 
Goya: Description, 27. 
Grana. See Parmesan. 
Granular Curd: Description, 28. 
Gratairon. See Goat's Milk. 
Gray: Description, 28. 
Grottenhof. See Limburg. 
Gruan de Montague. See Ziger. 
Grimerkase. See Sap Sago. 
Gruyfere: Description, 28; analysis, 65. 
Guiole. See Laguiole. 
Giissing: Description, 28. 
Hand: Description, 28. 
Hartkase. See Saanen. 
Harz: Description, 29; analysis, 65. 
Hay: Description, 29. 



Herv6 (see also Limburg): Analysis, 65. 

Hobbe. See Leyden. 

Hohenburg. See Box (firm). 

Ilohenheim: Description, 29. 

Holstein Dairy Cheese. See Leather. 

Ilolstein Health: Description, 29. 

Holstein Skim-milk: Description, 30. 

Holsteiner Gesundheits Kase: See Holstein Health. 

Holsteiner Magerkase. See Holstein Skim-milk. 

Hop: Description, 30. 

Hopfen. See Hop. 

Hudelziger. See Ziger. 

Hvid Gjedeost: Description, 30. 

Iglesias. See Pecorino. 

Ihlefeld. See Hand. 

Ilha: Description, 30; analysis, 65. 

Incanestrato: Description, 30; analysis, 65. 

Isigny: Description, 30. 

Jack: Description, 31. 

Jochberg: Description, 31. 

Josephine: Description, 31. 

Jura. See Septmoncel. 

Kajmak: Description, 31; analysis, 65. 

Kascaval: Description, 31; analysis, 65. 

Katschkawalj: Description, 31; analysis, 65. 

Katzenkopf. See Edam. 

Kirgisclikase. See Krutt. 

Kjarsgaard: Description, 31. 

Kloster: Description, 32. 

Klencz. See Brinsen. 

Knaost. See Pultost. 

Koejekaars. See Leyden. ' 

Kolos-Monostor: Description, 32. 

Komynde. See Leyden. 

Koppen: Description, 32. 

Kosher: Description, 32. 

Kosher Gouda: Description, 32. 

Krauterkase. See Sap Sago. 

Krutt: Description, 32; analysis, 65. 

Kuhbach: Description, 32. 

Laguiole: Description, 32;* analysis, 66. 

Lamothe. See Goat's Milk. 

Lanark. See Limburg. 

Lancashire: Description, 33. 

Landoch. See Brinsen. 

Langres: Description, 33. 

Lapland: Description, 33. 

Larron. See Mavoilles. 

Latticini: Description, 33. 

Leather: Description, 33. 

Leder. See Leather. 

Leicester (see also Derijyshire): Description, 34; 

analysis, 66. 
Leonessa. Sec Pecorino. 
Leyden: Description, 34; analysis, 66. 
Lindenhof. See Limburg. 
Limburgr Description, 34; analysis, 66. 
Liptau (see also Brinsen): Description, 35. 
Livarot: Description, 35; analysis, 66. 
Livlander. See Hand. 
Long Horns. See Cheddar. 
Lorraine: Description, 35. 
Liineberg: Description, 35. 
Maconnais: Description, 36. 
Macqueline: Description, 36. 
Maigre. See Farm. 
Majocchina. See Incanestrato. 



INDEX. 



77 



Maikase: Description, 36. 

Mainz Hand: Description, 30; analysis, 66. 

Malakoff {see also Neufchatel): Description, 36. 

Manbollen. See Edam. 

Manur: Description, 36. 

Maquee: Description, 36. 

Marianhof. See Limburg. 

Marldschi Hand: Description, 36. 

MaroOles: Description, 37; analysis, 66. 

Mascarpone: Description, 37; analysis, 66. 

Mascarponi. See Ziger. 

Mecklenberg Skim: Description, 37. 

Mignot: Description, 37. 

Milano. See Straechtno. 

Mondsee. See Box (iirm). 

Monk's Head. See Bellelay. 

Montasio: Description, 37. 

Montavoner: Description, 38. 

Mont Cenis: Description, 38. 

Montd'Or: Description, 38; analysis, 66. 

Monterey. Sec Jack. 

Monthl(5ry: Description, 39. 

Morin: See Limbuig. 

Mou. See Farm. 

Mozarinelli: Description, 39. 

Miinster: Description, 39; analysis, C6. 

Mysost: Description, 39; analysis, 66. 

Nessel: Description, 40. 

Neufchatel: Description, 40; analysis, 66. 

Neusohl. See Brinsen. 

New Milk: Description, 40. 

Niederungkiise. Sec Elbing. 

Nieheim: Description, 40. 

Nogelost: Analysis, 66. 

Nostrale: Description, 41. 

Oka. See Trappist. 

Olimento. See Cream. 

Olive Cream. See Cream. 

Olivet: Description, 41; analysis, 66. 

Olmtitzer Bierkilse. See Hand. 

Olmutzer Quargel (Olmiitz): Description, 41; 

analysis, 66. 
Paglia: Description, 41. 
Pago: Description, 42. ' 

Paneddas. Sec Cooked. 
Parmesan: Description, 42; analysis, 66. 
Pate Bleu. See Bleu. 
PavUlon. See Camembert. 
Pecorino: Description, 42; analysis, 66. 
Pecorino Dolce. See Pecorino. 
Pecorino Tuscano. See Pecorino. 
Petit Carre. See Ancien Impcirial; Neufchate!. 
Petit Suisse (see also Neufchatel): Analysis, 66. 
Pimento. See Neafcliatel. 
Pepper Cream. See Neufchatel. 
Pfister: Description, 43. 
PhUadelpbia Cream: Description, 43. 
Pimp. See Mainz Hand. 
Pineapple: Description, 43; analysis, 66. 
Poitiers. Sec Goat's Milk. 
Pont TEveque: Description, 44; analysis, 66. 
Port du Salut: Description, 44; analysis, 66. 
Potato: Description, 45. 
Potted: Descrii)tion, 45; analysis, 67. 
Prattigau: Description, 45. 
Prestost: Description, 45. 
Priraost. See Mysost. 
Providence: Description, 45. 



Provole: Description, 45. 

Provoloni. See Provole. 

Puglia. See Pecorino. 

Pultost: Description, 46. 

Quadro. See Stracchino. 

Quartirola. See Stracchino. 

Queso de Cincho: Description, 46. 

Queso de Hoja: Description, 46. 

Queso de Mano: Description, 46. 

Queso de Palma Metida. See Queso de Cincho. 

Queso de Prensa: Description, 4G. 

Queso de Puno: Description, 47. 

Queyras. See Champol^on. 

Rabacal: Description, 47; analysis, 67. 

Raden: Description, 47. 

Rangiport: Description, 47. 

Raper. See Rayon. 

Raschera. See Nostrale. 

Rayon: Description, 47. 

Rebbiola: Description, 47; analysis, 67. 

Reblochon: Description, 47; analysis, 67. 

Recuit. See Ziger. 

Reggian. See Parmesan. 

Reggiano. See Parmesan. 

Reibkase. See Saanen. 

Reindeer Milk: Description, 4S; analysis, 67. 

Remoudou. See Romadour. 

Rheinwaid. Sec Schamser. 

Ricotta (see also Ziger): Analysis, 67. 

Riesengebirge: Description, 48.' 

Rinnen: Description, 48. 

Robiola. See Rebbiola. 

Roll: Description, 48. 

Rollot: Description, 48. 

Romadour: Description, 48; analysis, 67. 

Romano. See Pecorino. 

Romatur. See Romadour-. 

Roquefort: Description, 48; analysis, 67. 

Saaland Pfarr. See Pretost. 

Saanen: Description, 49. 

Sage: Description, 50. 

Saint Benoit: Description, SO. 

Saint Claude: Description, 50. 

Saint Marcellin: Description, 50. 

Saint Michels. See Limburg. 

Saint Remy: Description, 50. 

Saloio: Description, 50; analysis, 67. 

Sandwich Nut. See Cream. 

Sap Sago: Description, 50; analysis, 67. 

Sassenage (see also Gex): Description, 51. 

Satz. See Hand. 

Savoy: Analysis, 67. 

Scanno: Description, 51. 

Scarmorzc: Description, 51. 

Schabzieger: See Sap Sago. 

Schachtelkase. See Box (soft). 

Schamser: Description, 51. 

Schlesischer Sauermilchkiise. See Silesian. 

Schlesischer V.'eichquarg. See Silesian. 

Schloss: Description, 52. 

Schottengsied: Description, 52. 

Schiitzen. See Limburg. 

Schwarzenberg: Description, 52. 

Schweitzer. See Swiss. 

Sdnecterre: Description, 52. 

Septmoncel (see also Gex): Description, 52; anal" 

ysis, 67. 
S6rac. See Ziger. 



78 



INDEX. 



Serra da Estrella: Description, 52; analysis, 67. 

Servian: Description, 53; analysis, 67. 

Siebenbiirgen. See Brlnsen. 

Silesian: Description, 53. 

Siraz: Description, 53. 

Slipcote: Description, 53. 

Smear-case. See Cottage. 

Sorte Maggenga. See Parmesan. 

Sorte Vermenga. See Parmesan. 

Soimiaintrain. See Camembert. 

Spalen: Description, 53; analysis, 67. 

Sperrkiise. See Dry. 

Spitz: Description, 54. 

Squares. See Cheddar. 

Steppes: Description, 54. 

Stilton: Description, 54; analysis, 67. 

Stirred Curd. See Cheddar. 

Stracchino: Description, 55. 

Stracchino di Gorgonzola. See Gorgoneola. 

Strassbm-g. See Miinster. 

Stringer. Sec Spalen. 

Styria: Description, 55. 

Sweet Curd {see also Cheddar): Description, 55. 

Swiss: Description, 55; analysis, 67. 

Tafl: Description, 55. 

Taml6: Description, 55. 

Tanzenberg. See Limburg. 

Tempete. See Canquillote. 

Tessel: Analysis, 67. 

T6te de Maure. See Edam. 

Tete de Moine. See Bellelay. 

Texel: Description, 56. 

Thenay: Description, 56; analysis, 68. 

Thraanen. See Emmental. 

Thuringia. See Hand. 

Thury-en-Valois. See Camembert. 

Tlgnard: Description, 56. 

Tilsit: Description, 56. 



Tome de Beaumont. See Tami^. 

Tome de Montague. See Vacherin. 

Topfen {see also Cooked): Analysis, 68. 

Toppen: Description, 56. 

Trappist: Description, 56; analysis, 68. 

Travnlk: Description, 57. 

Trouville: Description, 57. 

Troyes: Description, 57; analysis, 68. 

Trockenkase. See Dry. 

Tulle de Flandre. See Maroilles. 

Tuna: Description, 57. 

Tworog: Description, 58. 

Url: Description, 58. 

Vacherin: Description, 58; analysis, 68. 

Vendome: Description, 58; analysis, 68. 

VlUiers: Description, 58. 

Viterbo (see also Pecorino): Analysis, 68. 

Vlaslc. See Travnik. 

Void: Description, 58. 

Vorarlberg Sour-milk: Description, 59; analysis, 68. 

Walliskase. See Saanen. 

Warwickshire {see also Derbyshire): Analysis, 68. 

Washed Curd. See Cheddar. 

Weihenstephan. See Box (firm). 

Welsslak: Description, 59. 

Wensleydale: Description, 59, analysis, 68. 

West Friesian: Description, 59. 

Westphalia Sour-milk: Description, 59. 

Werderkiise. See Elbing. 

White: Description, 60. 

Wiltshire (see also Derbyshire): Analysis, 68 

Withania: Description, 60. 

Yorkshire-Stilton. See Cotherstone. 

Yoxmg Americas. See Cheddar. 

Ziegel: Description, 60. 

Ziegenkiise. See Goat's Milk. 

Ziger: Description, 60; analysis, 68. 

Zips. See Brinsen. 



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